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Old 08-01-2019, 08:30 PM
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Sealing material for fuel tank

My Model A runs saddle tanks that I modified to run in the tank fuel injection pumps. I built trap doors to control the fuel when the tank is low on fuel that I installed Buna N (polymer rubber) to help seal around the sides and bottom of the tanks. I also used the same Buna N sheets to seal the access holes that I machined into the poly tanks. Well, a dozen years later that rubber has clogged up the sock of the right pump and the trap door rubber is gone too. The Buna N rubber is flaking and turning to mush. I'm sure the left tank pump is probably close to being in the same mushy boat.
So, my question is, what material can I use inch and 1/16" and 1/8" that fuel won't attack and is sturdy enough to be mounted on the flapper doors, a 1" wrap around the fuel pump to aluminum mount I made, and to seal the access plates?

Keith

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Old 08-02-2019, 11:21 PM
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When you read the advertising you get the feeling this stuff will out last the pyramids. When you read the chemical compatibility list seeking out what data there is for the kind of stuff you find in gasoline, you get a WTF moment.



I don't think it gets a lot better with Viton either.




Bogie
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Old 08-03-2019, 08:45 AM
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I agree Bogie! I bought a 12"x12" by 1/8" and 1/16" sheets of Viton F yesterday, lets hope it works. Per the spec sheets Viton F has excellent resistance to oxygenated California gas and ethanol, both of which we get here in Cali. I sure hope this works for the price I paid for the stuff. My fuel tanks are a mess right now, must have used 10 rags to wipe up the mess in the right tank. Gotta flush it again today, then start on the left side, and of course pull the fuel filter, which is buried, no room in a Model A .

Keith
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Old 08-03-2019, 11:08 AM
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I am a fan of a tall skinny wide tank that sits behind the seats.

Being tall, sloshing during hard acceleration and breaking is eliminated. You get some during cornering. But in a street driven hotrod it is a good tradeoff.

I was bet I could not run my modified 72 c10 in cab tank in a 87 on less then a inch in the tank (4 gallons 3.7 in the lines). The thing only stuttered when I took a corner at 40 (it has 3 pickup locations gravity feeding to a inline pump).


On your model A you could mount a mostly vertical one behind the passengers seat. Easy to fill, good ground clearence, safe, and no need for baffles.

Other option is to go under the windshield cowl just going with a smaller tank to clear the clear the firewall/engine.
You could have a sloped bottom going to a single line with a return line feeding to the bottom in a diffrent location of the tank to reduce aeration. Think of a really wide motorcycle tank.

Then you could just use a inline pump to feed the engine.

The problem with any in tank pump is that your lifting the fuel. Even with a "pad" system your never going to be able to run at as low of a level as with a gravity fed setup.

With saddle tanks you have issues at acceleration and breaking as well as ground clearence issues which is why I ditched mine.

If you want to keep the saddle bag setup I would get out the tig welder and fab up some tanks out of aluminum. Basically rectangle boxes with baffles added before welding a slip fit top on.


Gas in recent years is just to volatile for any liquid based sealer to work long term.

Build a metal tank and dont worry about it for 10 -15 years.
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Old 08-03-2019, 05:25 PM
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Along Cerial's line of thinking back in the early days of swapping factory EFI into older vehicles was the idea of using a small catch tank ahead of an in line injection pump. The mini tank is gravity fed by the main and vents back to the main. The advantage this has is that slosh in the main tank doesn't risk starving the pump.


There are more modern versions of this thinking commercially made that can be mounted most anywhere. These use a low pressure pump to fill a small reservoir where another pump, usually high pressure,feeds the injection. If you're running a carb there is no reason that a lower pressure pump couldn't be used for the output side.


Realizing space isn't found to excess on the 32 these configurations offer some flexibility in that regard.


Bogie
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Old 08-03-2019, 05:57 PM
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The car is already built the way it's gonna stay. I thought about tigging up some steel or aluminum tanks, but that wouldn't gain me anything. I have no problem sucking the tank completely dry with the way I have it setup. The in the tank pump solved all of the fueling problems I was having. This setup ran for 12 years without fail till now. Hopefully the Viton F material will hold up...only time will tell. Also, the Tanks brand saddle tanks have built in baffles in the way they are molded around the running board mounting, I just added some mechanical ones to aid in keeping fuel around the pump sock under acceleration.

Keith
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Old 08-03-2019, 08:31 PM
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A metal tank will gain you longevity. Even a steel tank that is filled once every couple months and allowed to slosh "cleaning" the inner walls in drives to the local meeting spot is better then any coating setup in my book.


You could have the entire top have a gasket so you could remove the lid by removing 20 or so bolts allowing for easy pump and sending unit servicing/modification.

The tank could incorporate gussets to allow one side to bolt right to the frame in 4-6 points with rubber isolation for easy outside of the frame nut removal. This would allow you to support the tank with a transmission jack, remove the bolts, then slide the tank a inch inward the frame before dropping it down to get to the lines.

Eventually the lid gasket would fail so using a setup that allows easy maintance will save headaches. That being said I feel if you used a nitrate o ring (link below) with inset base it would outlast the pump allowing you to simply lay out 20 or so feet of new gasket when you did the pump.

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/2160...BoC8ZkQAvD_BwE
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