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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 03-14-2005, 01:09 AM
 

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Hi Randy, I was using naval jelly again this weekend and this time rinsed everything off thoroughly, dried it thoroughly and then wiped it down with laquer thinner, it's much better now, it left just the blueish haze you spoke about. I am hoping that it won't rust too much again as I have to leave it for two weeks now before I'll get to it again.

I can only sand and treat so much metal at one time as I only have weekends to work on the car, I find myself spending more and more of my time cleaning rust off metal I have already stripped and less time stripping new areas. It's like I'm fighting a losing battle.

Maybe I should just epoxy the areas I have already stripped instead of thinking I have to primer the whole car at once.

I checked out metalmeet over the weekend and read a lot of your posts, it looks like a pretty good forum, lots of expertise and advice. I've been spending a good few hours looking through the info there.

I have decided to build a 2dr retractable hardtop out of my 4dr sedan and will have to fabricate a lot of new panels from scratch as well as modify existing bodywork, so I have been getting a lot more detailed info there.

Baddbob, sounds like a good technique you have there, if I remember correctly Randy had suggested to me using serran wrap to keep the areas wet for as long as possible. I had posted separately a while back about this and recieved a lot of good advice. I'm going to give it a try too.

Rich

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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2005, 06:45 PM
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I talk to a guy at the PPG store and he says Ospho..I do a google search and wind up here (like there is a better source of info!)I was thinking of Ospho but don't like the strength of it so after reading this AWESOME thread I am going to use navel jelly and will tell all of my results.This is the best site ever PERIOD!!
this is the victim of my naval jelly battle with rust
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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 03-20-2005, 02:38 AM
 
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Hows it going here guys ? I was reading this thread here & was wondering what your thoughts were on the product called " Rust-Mort" ???

My local PPG dealer swears by it & from reading the above replys - I feel as tho i been told the wrong way to apply this......... I was told to apply it to rust after removing the majority of it & allow it to dry - Not to keep it wet & scrub it off..............

Does anyone else know about this product ?? Im sure i will head to the paint store & look into it before i check back in here but, It might help out anyone else who might be using the same product..........


Thanks , BOB_T
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  #64 (permalink)  
Old 03-21-2005, 05:08 PM
 
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I am new here, Found a link on the 67-72chevytruck.com board.

I have had some experiance with Muriatic acid. I had my frame for my 67 shorty blasted. I did not get around to epoxy priming it till 2-3 week later. I was 16 years old and did not know it was necessary to prime it as soon as I got the parts home. So the frame went on axel stands and the rest of the parts in milk crates and on the concrete floor.

When was ready to prime the frame it has surfast rust all over it. I am a roofer and we use Muriatic acid to remove the galvanizing(sp) from sheet metal so we can solider(sp) the seems. I and noticed it removed rust from our metal folders and thought well why not use it on my frame ? So I washed the frame with 50 % water and 50 % Muriatic acid. Then washed it with water. and blew it dry with comperssed air. I epoxy primed it immidetly.And painted it black 6 hours later.. Now after 2 years of sitting in a dry garage I have not even driven yet can see little bubbles. I am pretty sure it's from the acid. I remember the frame rusting after I dried it off never though too much of it. I just wanted the frame painted.


WHat the diffirence between Naval jelly and Muriatic acid ?
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  #65 (permalink)  
Old 03-21-2005, 07:13 PM
 

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I have a question. It's not really a surface rust question, but I hope you can help with my rust problem. I have managed to find all new panels for my camaro project. That is all but the top and firewall. As you can see in the pic. there is rust though by the quarter to top seam. My plan was to weld the new quarter in place so as not to loose those measurements, then cut out the bad metal (That runs down behind the rear glass) and rebuild with new metal. Question is how can I be sure I have all the rust removed. I plan to cut back to good metal, but what if there is more rust beyond that area? the top has an inner panel right next to the top so there is no good way I can see to get in there to inspect it. I've never run into rust in this area before. You can see in the pic. the previous owner just knocked down the rusted area and bondoed over it. Notice the skim of bondo under the paint beyond the Ground out area. Who knows how far the surface rust extends between the panels? Is there something I can spray in there to minimize the chance of rust spreading on the back side of the panel? Thanks for your help.

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  #66 (permalink)  
Old 03-22-2005, 12:23 PM
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by 72MARIO
I am new here, Found a link on the 67-72chevytruck.com board.

I have had some experiance with Muriatic acid. I had my frame for my 67 shorty blasted. I did not get around to epoxy priming it till 2-3 week later. I was 16 years old and did not know it was necessary to prime it as soon as I got the parts home. So the frame went on axel stands and the rest of the parts in milk crates and on the concrete floor.

When was ready to prime the frame it has surfast rust all over it. I am a roofer and we use Muriatic acid to remove the galvanizing(sp) from sheet metal so we can solider(sp) the seems. I and noticed it removed rust from our metal folders and thought well why not use it on my frame ? So I washed the frame with 50 % water and 50 % Muriatic acid. Then washed it with water. and blew it dry with comperssed air. I epoxy primed it immidetly.And painted it black 6 hours later.. Now after 2 years of sitting in a dry garage I have not even driven yet can see little bubbles. I am pretty sure it's from the acid. I remember the frame rusting after I dried it off never though too much of it. I just wanted the frame painted.


WHat the diffirence between Naval jelly and Muriatic acid ?
Not sure about Muriatic acid, but I know (by reading on other threads in this forum) that epoxy primer needs a super clean surface with some tooth to it in order to adhere properly.

I'm about to prime my bodyshell this weekend and am using a phosphoric acid based rust dissolver, probably identical to naval jelly but by a different name. I have discovered that if I rinse only with water after applying the acid, there is a milky coating on the bare metal that prevents flash rust for a good three to four days, even left outdoors in the Cape Town sea air.

If I rinse with water followed by rubbing it down with laquer thinner, the milky coating is gone and it rusts almost immediately telling me that it really is clean bare steel. I'm also sanding and reapplying the acid until every little black speck of rust is gone.

I would only shoot epoxy primer (or any primer for that matter) on a totally clean surface. If you can rub the surface with a clean white rag and find no discoloration on the rag, it's clean. If there really isn't a speck of rust on the metal when you prime, you shouldn't have a problem with rust for a good few decades.

I'm not an expert though, and I have little actual experience, only my current project, this information has just been compiled through reading it over and over again in this forum by guys that are experienced experts. I hope it helps, Randy Ferguson is really the guy to get in touch with, he originally posted this thread.

Maybe try posting a thread with his name in the title in this forum and restate your question, or send him a PM. You will get a really good answer from him.

Rich
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  #67 (permalink)  
Old 03-22-2005, 08:45 PM
 
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I had the frame really clean. I used sherwin wiliams wax and greese remover the used final clean. Mabye I needed to use soap to remove the acid..

The frame still looks good but there are some small tracks of bubbles that bug me.

Thanks for the help.
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  #68 (permalink)  
Old 03-25-2005, 12:35 PM
 
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Rust Removal

Just Like To Say As A Newbie,rookie This Is A Fantastic Thread For Someone Just Starting Out On His/her First Project.i Have A 30 Sport Coupe And Was Really Wondering Where To Start.thanks To Randy,wray,and To All The Other Reply's On This Thread I Now Have A Little More Confidence To Get Started.sure Glad I Stumbled On To This Site.ron From North Of The 49th.
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  #69 (permalink)  
Old 04-02-2005, 10:01 AM
 
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where can you buy naval jelly?

Randy,

Where do you buy your naval jelly?

great information.


Brian
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  #70 (permalink)  
Old 04-02-2005, 03:44 PM
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I believe Randy usually picks it up at Rural King, a farm supply store.
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  #71 (permalink)  
Old 04-04-2005, 01:16 PM
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Is it safe to wash naval jelly onto a concrete driveway and on down the drain?
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  #72 (permalink)  
Old 04-11-2005, 11:17 AM
 
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New/Old CAr

I'm 17 gettin ready to turn 18 on the 13th, I recently just found my love for cars. I'm getting my very first car and it seems like its going to be an 1978 Caprice Classic 4Dr. The car is lovely but has several surface rusts spots and needs to be removed ASAP. I seen all the posts in this threads and would like Mr.Ferguson or any other "professional" advice on what should I do?
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  #73 (permalink)  
Old 04-11-2005, 11:28 AM
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Hi JR,
Post a couple pictures! The more info we have, the better advice we can offer.

Thanks,
Randy Ferguson
__________________
Randy Ferguson
Metalshaping & Kustom Paint
www.metalmeet.com
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  #74 (permalink)  
Old 04-27-2005, 04:11 PM
 
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Surface Rust Query

Hi Guys,

I have used naval jelly to remove surface rust.Seems to have removed it all but there is a haze left on the metal,the metal is smooth.Is this haze deeper rust?
Pictures might explain better.


Thanks

Vic
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  #75 (permalink)  
Old 04-27-2005, 04:42 PM
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Can you somehow take some better photos?

Too hard to tell as these photos are so blurry.
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