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Old 04-02-2018, 05:08 AM
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Setting up for HVLP painting

I'm setting up to spray primer, base and clear paints.
Can I spray with a 3/8 hose? My current fittings neck down to 1/4" ID.
I can get some 3/8" high flow fittings. But I want to be smart about this and do it right the first time.
I plan to get a wall mounted filter dryer. What are the implications of regulating my pressure at the compressor versus at the filter? My compressor does not have that large a tank, only 20 gallons. But I think it has enough power and scfm for my hobby level needs. It's 5HP 10.4 CFM displacement, with 8.5 SCFM @ 40 PSI and 5.7 SCFM @ 90 PSI.

The gun I have ordered is a Devilbiss FLG4. The product information says it has a 1/4" NPS male inlet. Seems small unless that is the ID. In which case it is using normal 3/8" hose ends.
And here's my real concern, the Devilbiss gun supposedly wants 13.5 cfm.
I realize that I won't be painting constantly but I don't want to have a problem either.

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Old 04-02-2018, 05:22 AM
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I just took a look at other 5 HP compressors and all of them are rated for the cfm that I need.
Maybe I am over thinking this because it's not my area of expertise.
Perhaps I am OK and Devilbiss could have underrrated their pump a little.
I'll give it a shot and monitor my pressures to start, unless I hear too many dissenting voices on here.
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Old 04-02-2018, 05:27 AM
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The compressor is the biggest problem. You can't maintain a wet edge going around a car with clearcoat if you're stopping for the compressor to build up. Running the compressor that hard and hot will create excessive moisture in the tank and lines also and it won't last long. That compressor won't keep up a DA or grinders either. Hvlp guns need high volume to atomize. Compliant, Trans-tec, or HTE, RP(depends on who makes the gun what they call it.) or even conventional guns use less air.

Last edited by Hipster_G; 04-02-2018 at 05:48 AM.
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Old 04-02-2018, 08:54 AM
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I could return the gun before opening it I suppose!
Thanks for the ideas.
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Old 04-11-2018, 08:52 AM
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3/8" hose is perfect. You do not want the bulk of 1/2" hose and the implied 3/8" fittings it would have.

The 'V' style fittings are still 1/4" pipe thread, to be clear. I would recommend you switch to them early and not look back. I do not think they make any usable difference for spraying paint, but will for other air tools down the road. I have never had an issue getting 70+ psi at the gun using the normal 'M' couplers/plugs with 135 psi at the tank, 5 couplings, 100' of hose, and a desiccant dryer. Make sure that when you buy hose, you are getting some that have a big enough diameter inside the fitting to take advantage of the 'V' fittings.

You can crutch your compressor a tad by adding a secondary tank to it. Or you could find a neighbor with another small one and tap into both.

I would take that gun back, personally. There are better guns in that price range and HVLP is not necessary most of the time. People think they need it because of some great marketing that came as a result of compliance laws.

There are Iwatas that can be had for well under $300. I have not used one but they have a great reputation and I've come across a lot of claims that they tend to use less air.

I can personally vouch for CAT guns. I have the older t3 with the newer cap, and it is fantastic. You can get a pretty complete setup here that would be essentially the same as what I have: https://www.jnequipment.com/shop/pai...air-spray-gun/.

I would recommend you get a good .01 micron coalescer early on: https://www.aircompressorsdirect.com...IH/p14497.html. I'd run something like this ahead of it, personally: https://www.amazon.com/COMPRESSED-RE...+and+regulator

You can also put a filter on the gun if you want, I haven't used one for some time and don't notice any difference. I have a dedicated set of hoses for spraying that have never been used for anything else, and have never had unfiltered air in them.

Make sure you drain your compressor often and have clean hoses. I chased around crap getting in my job over the course of 2 jobs and finally replaced the hoses to fix it. If you get new hose, I recommend the blu bird ones. They are light, flexible, and have a hole big enough to take advantage if the hi-flow couplers.

I also recommend a diaphragm regulator at the gun. A "cheater valve" gives you a puff of air every time you pull the trigger, and will follow the compressor's fluctuation, requiring constant adjustment. https://www.amazon.com/Motor-Guard-R.../dp/B0073NVA2Y.
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Old 04-11-2018, 10:36 AM
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Best thing I ever did was to upgrade my compressor to one that runs my tools real well..

I run a dual air cleaner setup that filters in two stages and I have normal 3/8 hose with 1/4 fittings and it works just fine. I can run most any tool I need to use..

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Old 04-11-2018, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneMoreTime View Post
Best thing I ever did was to upgrade my compressor to one that runs my tools real well..

I run a dual air cleaner setup that filters in two stages and I have normal 3/8 hose with 1/4 fittings and it works just fine. I can run most any tool I need to use..

Sam
Yep. Agreed. The compressor he mentioned is the biggest problem. Everything else is just opinion and suggestions.

Most of what motivated my conversion to the 'V' style fittings was impulse. There was nothing wrong with the 'M' style, but if someone is starting out, go for it...the cost is essentially the same for GOOD fittings.
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Old 04-11-2018, 01:55 PM
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The Iwata Air Gunsa HTE AZ3 is not a bad gun for around 2 bills.
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Old 04-11-2018, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hipster_G View Post
The Iwata Air Gunsa HTE AZ3 is not a bad gun for around 2 bills.
You can have a full-on Japan made Iwata for basically that:

This one would need a cup which can be had very cheap:
https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-W-400-1.../dp/B071Z1J783

This one comes complete:
https://www.amazon.com/Anest-Iwata-1.../dp/B00S4I0PG4

I've not used any of the 3 but I would tend to lean away from the "second line" stuff if it is of no cost benefit. Plus, the Iwatas have a huge following and tons of praise. Have you used the AZ3/do you feel differently?
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Old 04-11-2018, 02:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwighty390 View Post
You can have a full-on Japan made Iwata for basically that:

This one would need a cup which can be had very cheap:
https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-W-400-1.../dp/B071Z1J783

This one comes complete:
https://www.amazon.com/Anest-Iwata-1.../dp/B00S4I0PG4

I've not used any of the 3 but I would tend to lean away from the "second line" stuff if it is of no cost benefit. Plus, the Iwatas have a huge following and tons of praise. Have you used the AZ3/do you feel differently?
I'm not an Iwata guy so I'm not familiar with all the different ones, but I have had a couple of the az3's in my hand. A bodyman buddy of mine has a couple of them. 1.4 for base/1.3 for clear. They spray pretty nice and feel pretty good in the hand. Not bad for the price. Some of the old school stand-bye guns don't do so well with the new super high solids low voc clears.
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Old 04-12-2018, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by 3repete View Post
It's 5HP 10.4 CFM displacement, with 8.5 SCFM @ 40 PSI and 5.7 SCFM @ 90 PSI.
This statement came to mind later last night.

I would almost guarantee that your actual pump and motor combo is used on compressors with 60-80 gallon tanks and has a much higher cfm rating on them. What do you have?
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Old 04-15-2018, 12:27 PM
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It's a 1998 DeVilbiss with 2 side by side cylinders. Every one that I see with the same configuration is rated around 11.5 at 40 psi. That's what got me thinking I could be OK.
Also I have found a 17.5 cfm pump that does 12 scfm @40 psi here. https://www.ebay.com/itm/17-5-CFM-14...19.m1438.l2649

For under $200 I can make that switch.

I may want to add another tank at some point too. I have seen some around on the used boards. I realize they need to be checked for corrosion and leaks. And I am aware of the need for dry clean air. I have a coalescing filter plus a gun mounted 1 micron device too.

That Cat gun that an earlier post suggested has the same air requirements that my FLG4 has. I'm going to keep the gun I have because I have watched a bunch of videos by a painter (The Gunman) who seems to like the brand. And when it comes to new things, I try to stay with known brands with support.

My first jobs are going to be some repairs on older daily drivers. I won't be needing continuous air for these small repairs, but I'm going to test the compressor to see how it keeps up by running air through my gun while it is set at different pressures.

And thank you all for sharing your experience. even though I'm not doing everything that was suggested, the words are really appreciated.

Last edited by 3repete; 04-15-2018 at 12:36 PM.
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Old 04-15-2018, 02:22 PM
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Just a couple final comments: The FLG4 takes 13.5...The Cat takes 11. Perhaps you saw the HVLP cap #.

I also believe that the FLG4 is one that the Gunman didn't praise highly, FWIW. The FLG5 is though.
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Old 04-15-2018, 07:25 PM
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True, he liked the 5 better. But the 4 is what I selected before hearing about the 5 or the Cat.
Then when I watched the review of the 4 it looked to be what a hobbyist-rookie could use. At this point I'm staying with it and if it pukes I'll come and confess. I promise!
Also it's true that the Cat uses what I said... on HVLP. Here's the copy I lifted from your link "HVLP Air Cap 23-1301 (13.5 CFM @ 29 PSI)"
I've been getting ready to do HVLP, not conventional. If I were to go conventional what is the tradeoff? It looks as if it gives a little less efficient transfer., but requires less cfm. So lose a little paint avoid buying a bigger compressor. Do they lay down paint the same? Or close?
I'm fine if you want to talk me into spraying conventional, I'm able to make changes.
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Old 04-15-2018, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3repete View Post
It's a 1998 DeVilbiss with 2 side by side cylinders. Every one that I see with the same configuration is rated around 11.5 at 40 psi. That's what got me thinking I could be OK.
Also I have found a 17.5 cfm pump that does 12 scfm @40 psi here. https://www.ebay.com/itm/17-5-CFM-14...19.m1438.l2649

For under $200 I can make that switch.

I may want to add another tank at some point too. I have seen some around on the used boards. I realize they need to be checked for corrosion and leaks. And I am aware of the need for dry clean air. I have a coalescing filter plus a gun mounted 1 micron device too.

That Cat gun that an earlier post suggested has the same air requirements that my FLG4 has. I'm going to keep the gun I have because I have watched a bunch of videos by a painter (The Gunman) who seems to like the brand. And when it comes to new things, I try to stay with known brands with support.

My first jobs are going to be some repairs on older daily drivers. I won't be needing continuous air for these small repairs, but I'm going to test the compressor to see how it keeps up by running air through my gun while it is set at different pressures.

And thank you all for sharing your experience. even though I'm not doing everything that was suggested, the words are really appreciated.
A lot of times even though the compressor has 5hp decals on it, the tag on the motor will tell the real story. Most times the decal on the front misrepresents the motor. You might have a 4.3-4.5hp motor there. Any true 5 hp motor is about going to need a 30A 220v dedicated circuit. . The other factor is most smaller compressor motors run at 3400 rpm with a pump that spins about 1750 rpm. The pump you're looking at spins 930rpm. I never got to swapping stuff around so I don't know if it's as simple as a pulley change or not. Imho, the small compressor turns into 2 minutes of work 5 minutes of wait all afternoon long.
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