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  #181 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2010, 08:55 AM
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Welding

Haven't done much stick welding but have done plenty of MIG. When I find that happening, it usually indicates I'm not getting good enough penetration. Poor penetration can cause the welds to end up barely attached. I attached two pics. The first one is poor, and the second one is good. I would start by examining your welds and maybe practice on some pieces till you get a weld that can't be broken with a hammer.
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  #182 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2010, 12:00 PM
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rod size

Hey bro, can you give a little more info? What are you welding, what size rod and type. I.E. 7018, 6011 etc. You did say your stick welding right? Are your rods dry and your ground is solid for every weld? One more question, why aren't you mig welding it. Don't get me wrong I love stick welding, but some times mig welding is just more practical on a project.
Good luck on your project What are you building anyway?
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  #183 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2010, 03:28 AM
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Hi rfurgy,

Thanks a lot for your suggestion I will definitely, keep your point in mind next time when I weld. My father told me that the problem is in the uniform movement of welding rod, and I am working on it.

Thanks and Regards
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  #184 (permalink)  
Old 10-19-2010, 07:24 PM
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Along the lines of the brake bleeder is my transfer case and differential filler. It is made from a 2qt jar, a metal disc in place of the glass cap with a tube and an airline fitting soldered on. It can be used with a bicycle pump,or very low air pressure from a regulator. Make sure to remove the valve core so it stops when you want it to.
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  #185 (permalink)  
Old 10-19-2010, 07:31 PM
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[QUOTE=NOBLNG]Along the lines of the brake bleeder is my transfer case and differential filler. It is made from a 2qt jar, a metal disc in place of the glass cap with a tube and an airline fitting soldered on. It can be used with a bicycle pump,or very low air pressure from a regulator. Make sure to remove the valve core so it stops when you want it to.


Its the simple ones that make you smile when you use them . I may have to make myself one of those!
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  #186 (permalink)  
Old 10-19-2010, 07:47 PM
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Useful adaption to spray gun.

Thats a great idea noblng for an awkward spot to pour oil. Trying to pour oil uphill is a pain, especially around the diff/gearbox.
Here is one idea i found on this web site and put to use for spraying uphill . I cant remember who posted but it works great. It allowed me to spray under the dash and under the guards inside the trunk in my mustang where there was originally no paint. Just add a small piece of fuel hose and push two air hose fittings into each end.Trick was to spray with your head up under neath and not fume yourself out.
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  #187 (permalink)  
Old 10-19-2010, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NOBLNG
Along the lines of the brake bleeder is my transfer case and differential filler. It is made from a 2qt jar, a metal disc in place of the glass cap with a tube and an airline fitting soldered on. It can be used with a bicycle pump,or very low air pressure from a regulator. Make sure to remove the valve core so it stops when you want it to.
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  #188 (permalink)  
Old 12-04-2010, 02:13 PM
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Not a home made tool but a modified one. I see post from time to time asking about turning a wood band saw into a metal saw . Here is a couple of shots of the reduction it takes to make that happen . Just an fyi
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  #189 (permalink)  
Old 12-04-2010, 08:33 PM
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where did you find the info to do that? I want to do the same to my Craftsman.
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  #190 (permalink)  
Old 12-05-2010, 05:18 AM
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What I like is the the ironworker sitting on the I beam welding....What cha building Pepi ?
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  #191 (permalink)  
Old 12-05-2010, 05:47 AM
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deadbodyman, that is going to be my welding sign, it needs another 5 ft beam so I can plant it. Not an original idea, just something different.

For the reduction the large pulley is 10.5 granger;http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/BRO...805?Pid=search

The small 3 stage pulley is actually a piece made by JET it is a; 3SP-14 three speed kit, that is the name and part number needed to find it.

The first attempt just using the Jet kit did not slow the saw down enough. The big pulley was the answer.
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  #192 (permalink)  
Old 12-05-2010, 10:24 AM
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That sign is AWESOME! Beautiful job Pepi! I love the "sparks" coming off the arc!

A friend of mine who owns a local muffler shop had an awesome display with the name of the shop spelled out using muffler pipe. But other shops in the building complained because it looked like the whole building housing a number of other shops was all the same muffler shop and the landlord made him take it down, or at least made him remove his name.

I'll try to get a picture of it. But I have to say, the art you have made there is much better. I love that stuff!

Brian
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  #193 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2010, 08:14 AM
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Thanks Brian,

I for one enjoy the phots you post seen some good stuff from that camera.

pepi
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  #194 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2010, 07:07 PM
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It had to have a belt guard. To cold to paint it, so it will fly raw. The ban-saw makes sheet metal work a much easier task. Cut off disks were the tool before, the saw makes truer cuts, speeds things up.
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  #195 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2010, 06:49 PM
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I dont have pics, but if someone would like some i can get them up...

I made a tire grooving stand, for cutting grooves in dirt track racing tires. Usually I had to sit in a chair, hold the tire between my legs, and groove about a 6 inch area, then spin the tire some and do it again. But, this year I took an old rotor, with my bolt pattern on it, welded a bolt to my overhead hoist, then took a big washer and welded it to the bolt. Next i took the rotor, with the bearing still inside, and stuck it over the bolt. The rear bearings contacted the washer, then took another washer for the front, and put a nut on the bolt. Now i can stand while i grove tires, and just spin the tire a little bit! Took a 30 min/tire job and turned it into a 5 min/tire job! Also works great for siping, and grinding the tires!!

Also, we had to pull the trans out of the car alot this year, 3 speed saginaw. So we took some 6 inch long bolts that fit the bellhousing where the trans bolts up, cut the heads off and then ground the ends round! now we just stick the trans up, and use the bolts as long dowel pins! makes putting a trans in A LOT faster!

Then for speedy pit stops, i took my 1 inch impact socket, and spot welded a light valve spring inside, so when the nut comes loose, you pull the socket away and the nut pops out of the socket!

We also have put a skid on our jack, to aid in manuvering on dirt, ran a controller from the valve up the handle so we dont have to take the handle off to let the car down, and put a big foot on the lifting part of the jack to keep the car stable during a fericious tire change!
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