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  #196 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2010, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigRoy1978


Then for speedy pit stops, i took my 1 inch impact socket, and spot welded a light valve spring inside, so when the nut comes loose, you pull the socket away and the nut pops out of the socket!
I like it.

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  #197 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2010, 08:34 PM
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The long bolt idea is a good one, would make a breeze of lining up the input shaft through the clutch.

Reminds me of doing a similar thing on Peugeot cylinder heads, the engine leans over at 45 like one bank of a V8, but there are no dowels. Two head bolts with the heads rounded off and flats for screwing them out, makes it a breeze...

And on the Peugeot the bellhousing is very tight in around the floor, so we get long bolts into the crossmember and drop it 2", engine and all drops, all the wiring is long enough and there's enough flex in the radiator hoses.

Then it's easy to get the box in and out.
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  #198 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2010, 09:42 PM
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When i used to work on heavy trucks, thats how we would put third members, trannys, hubs...almost anything really heavy on! that and its all lined up pretty much.
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  #199 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2010, 11:13 PM
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pilot bearing alignment

Quote:
Originally Posted by BigRoy1978
When i used to work on heavy trucks, thats how we would put third members, trannys, hubs...almost anything really heavy on! that and its all lined up pretty much.
If you're having trouble with pilot bearing alignment and you're alone, you can put valve springs, washers nuts on the long studs, snug up some, pull the coil wire hit the clutch turn it over a bit and it will snap in every time.
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  #200 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2010, 12:29 AM
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thats what i used to do, but the racecar has a hydraulic throwout bearing, so it doesnt work very good.
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  #201 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2010, 07:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigRoy1978
thats what i used to do, but the racecar has a hydraulic throwout bearing, so it doesnt work very good.
I have also used studs for intake manifold installs. 2 on one side will make it sit down straight and keep you from hurting the gaskets or the RTV bead.
Used to have quite an assortment of them when we did a lot of clutch work. Always used them to reinstall trannys, made life easy and if you were working alone made it so you could rest for a few seconds letting the studs support the transmission.
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  #202 (permalink)  
Old 12-12-2010, 04:38 PM
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made something else kinda worth posting. I needed a seat that had a greater rating of 200lbs . I had some scrap sch40 laying around and thought to put it to good use. These pics are from my phone, I have no clue where I set my good camera . The seat lays at about 16" at the lowest setting and at about 30" on the highest setting. All flux core welded.

first pic is of the metal cut/ drilled ready to be welded.


welded all together. found that seat at a scrap yard. think there from the bottom of some tanks.





got my paint from local auto store


primed, also added a cross bar for feet rest. casters are from harbor freight




all painted

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  #203 (permalink)  
Old 12-12-2010, 05:01 PM
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also scored a 10x4 steel table off criags list. the owner told me that it weights about 350lbs; I was like uhhhh yea right. 1/4" solid top with 4" 1/4" thick tube legs with a separate leg for mounting a vise to. think you can see my new vise (that i scored on craigslist for 40bucks) in picture above. I welded up a couple of wheels and front steer wheel so we could move that heavy sucker. harbor freight had them on sale, good price too.

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  #204 (permalink)  
Old 12-21-2010, 10:59 PM
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Another idea

On a more "modest" note - ever need an automatic rewinder/retractor for power cords? Got an old (junk) vacuum cleaner around? Now, just before you toss it out, salvage that automatic cord retractor on it, change the end to a female and out a male on the part that was inside the vacuum and there you are ......

I have one mounted at the end of my workbench for whatever I need to plug in, but with a minor tug and release, its out of the way again!
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  #205 (permalink)  
Old 12-21-2010, 11:03 PM
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Smart thinkin.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave57210
On a more "modest" note - ever need an automatic rewinder/retractor for power cords? Got an old (junk) vacuum cleaner around? Now, just before you toss it out, salvage that automatic cord retractor on it, change the end to a female and out a male on the part that was inside the vacuum and there you are ......

I have one mounted at the end of my workbench for whatever I need to plug in, but with a minor tug and release, its out of the way again!
Just too clever . Almost threw my old vacuum cleaner out of the workshop into the garbage. I now have a new use for it. Thanks
al from downunda.
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  #206 (permalink)  
Old 02-04-2011, 01:38 PM
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Built circuit to control/automate a kiln. Uses, powdercoating, heat treating metals. Good up to a little over 2000 degrees. I set climb rate, max temp, holding time. I can add anything with programing if I need:







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  #207 (permalink)  
Old 02-04-2011, 03:29 PM
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on powder coating.

[QUOTE=gow589]Built circuit to control/automate a kiln. Uses, powdercoating, heat treating metals. Good up to a little over 2000 degrees. I set climb rate, max temp, holding time. I can add anything with programing if I need:


I like it............. I'm behind the curve on powder coating.. Could you tell me what kinds of Temps are required to powder coat? My neighbor set up an oven with a 48" x 48" stainless box and insulated it with oven foil and layers of duct liner glass.. But he used elements, thermostat and controls from a 220 range/oven. So I'm thinking he's running at 500f or less. Does that do it, or are there various powder coatings with differing specs?

I ask thinking maybe I'm not the only one who doesn't know.. Hopefully
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  #208 (permalink)  
Old 02-04-2011, 03:32 PM
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The kit I have says 400 at 20 minutes. I have not actually used it yet. I believe that is typical but that is about as much as I know about it.
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  #209 (permalink)  
Old 02-04-2011, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pepi
Not a home made tool but a modified one. I see post from time to time asking about turning a wood band saw into a metal saw . Here is a couple of shots of the reduction it takes to make that happen . Just an fyi
I'm also in the process of turning a woodworking bandsaw into a metalworking one, except I was able to snag an unused 40:1 speed reducer cheap off of Ebay that perfectly fits the original motor, and then picked up a couple different sized pulleys from Tractor Supply to fine-tune the blade speed. I haven't finished it yet so don't know how well it'll work, but there's another option.

For another home made tool that worked that I built, I turned a wood lathe into a crude but functional metal lathe. My grandfather had an old cross slide that I inherited, so I welded up an adapter plate that would attach to the slide using t-nuts, and had slots that would work for the standard lathe mounts. Also thanks to Ebay, I got a single-bit tool holder, and a thick piece of aluminum to use as a spacer. Minimum speed on this lathe is approx. 500 RPM, so probably a bit fast for the work that I needed to do, but I got it done regardless.

Reason I did this was I am in the process of upgrading the brakes on my '78 T/A to use calipers and rotors off of a '00 T/A. One of the obstacles is the '00 rotors are slip-on, so I had to turn down a set of old '78 rotors to make a pair of dedicated hubs. Actually, these rotors are off of a 1LE 3rd gen, so I also upgraded to larger wheel bearings at the same time.

Pic #1 shows the cross-slide and adapter plate on the lathe bed.
Pic #2 shows everything mocked up and in position.
Pic #3 shows one of the hubs turned down to the correct diameter. Keen eyes will also notice the chunks of aluminum wedged under the adapter plate to give it some much needed support - was awful flexy before this.

It's not gonna be doing any super-precision metalwork, but I didn't need it for that. Once I found the right tooling (1/4" carbide inserts and holders from HF to handle the cast iron rotors) it worked surprisingly well.
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  #210 (permalink)  
Old 02-04-2011, 07:19 PM
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I keep tons of cheap throw away tools on hands with no warranty.I have a few distribitor wrenches made from cheap throw away wrenches welded to rod stock including threaded rod.They work and I save money.I have done this to the cheap screwdrivers too,bend including grinding on them.
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