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Old 05-11-2016, 08:09 PM
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Shrinker stretcher stand

Alright all you metal fab guys I have a question. I'm building a stand for my new shrinker stretcher set. My question is will mounting them angled away from each other both facing in the frontal direction be as good as mounting them in opposite directions and working from the other side of the mount.
If by angling them away from each other it will keep the unused tool from interfering with the piece of work, then I'll just angle them. That's how Eastwood does it. My mounting post is going to be a little different. I have a in ground post lift in my shop that I use for everything. I've drilled and tapped two holes in the head and have bolted a trailer receiver to it. The S/S mount will slide into it and a leg with the foot pedals connected to it will be welded to the bottom of the mounting plate. When I drop the hoist the pressure will keep the post from moving. That way I wont need legs . When not in use the whole tool will not take up valuable floor space. It can go in a corner.

What do you think about mounting them angled both facing the same way or opposite each other and WHY?

BB
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Old 05-11-2016, 08:25 PM
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I like them facing opposite just fine so the work piece doesn't run into whichever one you're not using, but I don't do a great deal of fab work.
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Old 05-11-2016, 08:32 PM
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Glad to see someone else doing some metal fab. Main thing to concern with is to have plenty of room for working some larger pieces such as a fender or body side panel. I think the angle will work just fine for you.

Sam
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Old 05-14-2016, 02:23 PM
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stretched diamond shaped plate... <> one at each longer point..

you could cut your plate in half the long way and mount them.. and still have room to weld the legs on.. or weld tubes on to allow the legs to be removable if you can get a tight fit.. if not.. slice the tubes and use pinch bolt (O) or a thru bolt..
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Old 05-14-2016, 08:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
I like them facing opposite just fine so the work piece doesn't run into whichever one you're not using, but I don't do a great deal of fab work.
I agree. Any other configuration will limit the amount of curve you can put into a piece of work. Even a 90% curve will really start to wrap itself around the tool. A simple replacement rear window channel may take a 100-120% curve on the corner. I would not want to see mine changed from facing opposite directions.

John
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Old 05-15-2016, 03:56 PM
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I was such a bone head when I got mine I save $50 or something and bought only one body so I have to switch the dies back and forth for shrinking and stretching. Man that was dumb.

Brian
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Old 05-15-2016, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
I was such a bone head when I got mine I save $50 or something and bought only one body so I have to switch the dies back and forth for shrinking and stretching. Man that was dumb.

Brian
LOL, But the second one doesn't get in your way.

John
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Old 05-15-2016, 07:29 PM
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I decided to go with back to back opposite and just rotate the tool. I had to take my plasma cutter in to be repaired so I can cut the base plate for the pedal rods to clear. I think I'll make it so the pedals fold back upon themselves. When stored it should only take up about a sq. ft.
With the receiver bolted to my hoist head, I think I'll take my small English Wheel and make so it will also utilize the receiver as a mount also.

I need my plasma cutter!!

BB
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Old 07-04-2016, 06:59 AM
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I wouldn't worry to much about where to place them just drill a few more holes and put it where it works best if one gets in the way.
What your going to find out real fast is working one with the handle is a major PITA and you'll get big blisters every time. plus it'll wear your arm out.
I'm as FRUGAL as anyone can be, most likely more so, so when I tell you to buy the stand buy it its the best thing you can get for those because you use your foot to apply pressure. you'll get 10 times more pressure out of it so you can work thicker metal all day long. by hand you got about 5 min before you need a break. Its the best thing I ever bought from HF and at a cost of 100.00 I couldn't build one better or cheaper.

Last edited by deadbodyman; 07-04-2016 at 07:09 AM.
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Old 07-04-2016, 08:39 PM
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shrinker stretcher stand

Here are the plans from the web
Foot Operated Shrinker Stretcher Stand - Metal Meet Forums
I bought the out of box.. shrinker -stretcher .. with one body from Harbor freight for $ 29.
I got tired of having to change dies and decided to make a deep throat body It's another unfinished project.
the pivot pins are knurled and can be driven out with a punch then I used the body to locate the holes in the deep throat body I welded. The spring had to be different . I still need to fab the die holders to be two pieces instead of the sheet metal one piece that came with the set..
When I took the street rod Metal Fab class at UVU a few years ago I used the Marchant shrinker a lot of times. they are the Rolls=Royce of shrinkers. One feature I really liked is they have a stroke limiter. set the stroke and stomp away when you are doing a gradual shrink. lets you work a lot faster. I planning on adding a limiter to my deep throat body. just a bracket with a Nylock nut tacked on and adjustment T handle screw to limit the lever arm movement.

Last edited by timothale; 07-04-2016 at 08:47 PM.
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Old 07-04-2016, 08:48 PM
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http://www.youtube.com/embed/7ZdFtGeVJvw

Here you are guys all you need to know to build our own out of what you may have laying around.. Simple project

Sam
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Old 07-05-2016, 05:17 AM
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That looks like a pretty good one. I'd build it if I had the time. Thanks OMT
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Old 07-05-2016, 08:59 PM
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Yes. Appears to be very simple and effective. I would like to do that. It is not that I find it hard to use the hand lever but the pedal would free up both hands to hold the material and that would be great.

John
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