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  #151 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2019, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 55 Tony View Post
As for the compression and cam timing, which way normally decreases the piston to valve clearance? Advance or retard.
Advancing cam decreases intake valve clearance and increases exhaust clearance...retarding cam increases intake valve clearance while decreasing exhaust.

I've heard of the advance/retard cam to get best cranking compression for ideal cam location....but I've also heard it doesn't necessarily work and that two different starter cranking speeds can give different results on the same engine. I've never tried it.

Tracks tend to get "greasy" when they get hot, especially if track prep is minimal that day. If you noticed others having problems you can probably chalk that up to being the answer. Old wore out tires will just get magnified by that.

If your serious about them lasting over a couple of years, then they have to come off the car every fall, washed clean, deflated(leave on rims) and garbage bagged in HD bags while sucking all the air out of the bag with a vacuum sweeper or shop vac.

Then store indoors, away from any electric motors(furnace, etc) so they avoid ozone, and don't freeze.

Left blown up on the car all winter and see cold temps they will lose 1/4 of their grip.

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  #152 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2019, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ericnova72 View Post

Left blown up on the car all winter and see cold temps they will lose 1/4 of their grip.

I guess it's maybe a bit dependent on where you are as far as how cold it gets over winter but we normally put the rear on jack stands, deflate the tires (pull the valves out) and let it go at that. Usually, a couple of good burn-outs when the season starts and I haven't notice any ST difference. On the door cars, we put the entire car up - trying to not flat spot the front rubber. Well most of them anyway - I can't seem to get my oldest with the Monza to follow the program but what else is new?!!
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  #153 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2019, 08:25 AM
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The slicks are about 1.5 years old, I think summit gets them fairly "fresh". They stayed inside the garage over winter with a little air in them, and the garage never went below 55.

On tuesday the planets must have been aligned again because I was able to check the timing. It was a little too far advanced but I backed it off to 18 initial and 38 total. I tightened down the clamp. Painted a mark on it and the intake in case I have to pull it. Then I remembered I'm using the antique Autotronic Controls dizzy. Had meant to put the gutted R2R back in. Oh well.

It sure drives different with the spreadbore Holley. Although the primaries are larger than the Q-jet primaries, the secondaries open much sooner. I had cleaned it up, put in the "factory" jets and the A/F is pretty darn good and much smoother when going from cruising to WOT than the Q-jet (I hate to admit that). The mechanical secondaries, like usual, feel awesome, but my seat pant dyno isn't too accurate, I'll see if it acts any different maybe tomorrow.

Anyone know how much rubber is left when the holes just disappear? I can still see a little bit but not much. (Hoosier) I think when I first got them I lost half of the rubber trying to see a good contact patch in my driveway. I think that just tears the rubber right off them, plus it doesn't do crap for testing the contact patch. If it weren't for the driveway short burnouts, I think they would have last me till winter. Live and learn (and spend).
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  #154 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2019, 11:20 AM
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My experience they are good until the holes are gone, and then maybe 2 or 3 weekends after than....and then you'll know for sure when they are done, as traction will just disappear when you wear through the compound rubber and hit the base tire rubber.

Do you ever swap them side-to-side to even the wear and erase the "grain" pattern that they develop? we used to swap them a couple times a summer.
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  #155 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2019, 12:38 PM
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Eric - I doubt if they got a chance to grain up on him - sounds like Tony seriously likes to "smoke 'em"!!


If you ever decide you want to try the Hoosiers again, I have a guy up in Kentucky that swings a decent deal on them - fast shipping too.


And like Eric said once the holes are gone, it's just a matter of a few burn-outs and runs at that point. We were at Bristol a few years back, ran a gamblers race on Thursday night, made it to 4th round. Then Friday night we were doing pretty good, think 5th and all of a sudden the 60 goes off the map. So later on between cool downs, we take a test shot - 60 still in the toilet. I suggest we swap the tires side to side, pull 'em off and it's like there is nothing left and getting close to the cords. A new set of shoes the next morning and $500 later, we were back in the game.
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  #156 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2019, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chasracer View Post
Eric - I doubt if they got a chance to grain up on him - sounds like Tony seriously likes to "smoke 'em"!!.

The last two days I went, I started out with a little burn out and tried a little more each time, the last one filled the car with smoke. But I was pissed off and was trying anything. I'm pretty sure my next pair will last a good deal longer. I really think I did the most damage/wear here in my driveway. Tomorrow is supposed to be much cooler, high of 76F. If I don't hook I'm going to buy new ones even if these have a little left on them.
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  #157 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2019, 07:10 PM
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Sounds like a plan!
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  #158 (permalink)  
Old 06-14-2019, 01:23 AM
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Ought to be good since the rain has moved out of here and it has cooled down a bunch.
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  #159 (permalink)  
Old 06-15-2019, 07:30 AM
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Damn nut jobs left the timer stuff out last week through lots of rain and were trying to get it to work. Last I checked it was working but the printer wasn't. I went to bed sort of pissed. Try again tonight.



I'm guessing I may not have been the only one to have problems with the hot track, they said next saturday they are open from 8pm to 3am. It's great having it so close to me, and it's better that it's no prep and run half ***** because they used to attract some cars that would rattle my windows at home. Now I can hardly hear them when inside with the windows closed.


Does anyone think I should abandon this thread and start a new one? Just checking?
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  #160 (permalink)  
Old 06-16-2019, 09:14 AM
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I'm about ready to give up on this. Ran last night in the 7.9's, actually the most consistent it's ever been. Wasn't hooking and 60' was in the 1.8 range. Kept letting air out till it was down to 11psi. Got too scary down at the finish trying to stay in my lane.

I'm just left so confused as too why I haven't gained any HP with the rpm intake and the Skip White heads. Everyone and their brother told me that's what was holding me back.


The 60' times sucked even when I *almost* hooked. Had my girlfriend watching the rear of the car and she said it only went down a little, but in inches she isn't sure, but I think the cal-tracks are doing their job.
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  #161 (permalink)  
Old 06-16-2019, 09:38 AM
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Carb sizing

I'm curious if anyone has measured their manifold vacuum at WOT and near top rpm to see if the carb may be holding them back? What kind of manifold vacuum reading do you get? I think this could be a good number to know when thinking your carb is too small.



I did a search and found this, how in the world can I find out what vacuum my carb is rated at?


Calculate CFM of Carb from Vacuum
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  #162 (permalink)  
Old 06-16-2019, 10:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 55 Tony View Post
I'm about ready to give up on this. Ran last night in the 7.9's, actually the most consistent it's ever been. Wasn't hooking and 60' was in the 1.8 range. Kept letting air out till it was down to 11psi. Got too scary down at the finish trying to stay in my lane.

I'm just left so confused as too why I haven't gained any HP with the rpm intake and the Skip White heads. Everyone and their brother told me that's what was holding me back.


The 60' times sucked even when I *almost* hooked. Had my girlfriend watching the rear of the car and she said it only went down a little, but in inches she isn't sure, but I think the cal-tracks are doing their job.

You got two statements in here that run right into one another pal.



"Wasn't hooking and 60' was in the 1.8 range"


"haven't gained any HP with the rpm intake and the Skip White heads"


Well - maybe you have gained more than you think although the tune might be off or the combo not quite matched yet - but bottom line is that you're on a no-prep track with slicks that are done.



Every change you make will normally require other changes to accommodate it. AS an example, I am getting ready to swap out my re-worked QF 1050 for a SV-1 1180. I have to make a number of changes just to make the change but then I have to start looking at what do I need to do to make the larger amount of CFM flow that's possible work for my combination. It's almost like going back to ground-zero and starting over again but if I want the car faster then that's what I have to do.
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  #163 (permalink)  
Old 06-16-2019, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
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You got two statements in here that run right into one another pal.

"Wasn't hooking and 60' was in the 1.8 range"

"haven't gained any HP with the rpm intake and the Skip White heads"

Well - maybe you have gained more than you think although the tune might be off or the combo not quite matched yet - but bottom line is that you're on a no-prep track with slicks that are done. .

The thing is that even if I take 2 10th's off for the poor 60' time with tire slippage, I'm still just breaking even with my best ET as with the stock heads and old intake.
And I'm not pointing fingers at anyone about the heads and intake, people have been telling me that's what I need for years now.
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  #164 (permalink)  
Old 06-16-2019, 11:14 AM
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What kind of MPH are you finishing at now....MPH tells the tale on whether you are making more power or not...not the ET.
ET just relates to how well you are using the power you are making.

I'm not sure about how Q-Jets are rated, but aftermarket 4 barrel carbs like Holley are rated for the "xxx" cfm @ 1.5" vacuum(2 barrels are rated @ 3").
If you are seeing more than 1" of vacuum at peak power then most race tuners consider that the carb is becoming a restriction.

You're running 7.9 Et and showing 3 tenths missing on the 60 foot....if you get the 60 ft down to where it should be, in the 1.5's area the better 60 will reward you with somewhere near a 4 tenths in the 1/8 mile.....now when you re at 7.5 ET and consistent, then you can start testing 2 timing changes and carb jetting for best MPH(Power).

By the way....the Cal-Tracs should be pushing the back of the car up, not squatting it.....if it squats then something is really wrong. You want separation of the body and suspension at the hit.....if body is rising, then the tires are being driven down......that pesky "equal and opposite reaction" thing from physics class.

When you have someone watch the launch or video it, they need to focus on the wheel lip to tire height relation ship at the center of the wheel well.....not the rear bumper.
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  #165 (permalink)  
Old 06-16-2019, 11:39 AM
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The mph is 86-87 something. Same as the old set up.

I will put a vacuum gauge on it and run it inside the car, or like I did once before, tape it to the outside of the windshield.
Last night I was running a Holley 800.


Have to put the street tires on again and check that vacuum. I thought it sounded like a perfectly good way to tell if your carb is choking the engine, but never read it anywhere before. I thought it up myself, not the FIRST one to think it up, but I never heard of it before. It just made sense to me

I realize the rear should go up, but what I meant is at least the way she described it, it wasn't going way down as if the caltracs weren't there.

That's true about where she was looking, at the wheel well or the bumper. If I ask her today I'll most likely hear "I don't know?" But I'd bet it was the difference between the car and the track. Heck, with only 11 psi in 9" tires I'm sure that alone was accounting for some of what she saw.
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