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  #181 (permalink)  
Old 06-19-2019, 05:59 AM
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Chas, not sure what you mean about the strip not being permanent? It is a real dragstrip that long ago was 1/4 mile, then I don't know how long ago went to 1/8. It has been run by a few different people over the 15 years I've been here and most have given up due to not making any money I suppose, then it's closed for a year or so. The last time it closed, the guy who owned it for many years sold the timing equipment. As far as I know the sensors are in the same place all the time.


Even if I take out the two 7.77's and go with the 7.9's or 7.8's that was more often, I'm still just breaking even with the new heads and intake. No improvement at all. Hate to admit it, but the Holley that's on it now gives me much more steady readings on the a/f gauge when going WOT than the Qjet, but no real difference in times.

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  #182 (permalink)  
Old 06-19-2019, 06:38 AM
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I worked for two different drag strips part-time as an IHRA Technical Inspector and my other primary job was taking care of the electronics - timing system computers, sensors, scoreboards and so forth. As long as the sensor boxes have some type of permanent mounting on the outside of the track and the reflector foams are glued to the track all is good. It's when things get taken down and put back up for race weekend as a temporary track timing system that it can get a bit shaky. Even live bugs can cause issues. One facility had a bad problem with spiders - I took to buying rubbing alcohol by the case and dousing each sensor on the track race mornings. That took care of that problem.


Not sure if you have done so but I would call up a couple of cam outfits with all of your car information in front of you and just "see" what their recommendations are for a camshaft. I am not saying you should purchase one - it's more of a brain exercise. Until you get some solid passes down that aren't spinning on launch, I don't think you want to make any additional changes.
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  #183 (permalink)  
Old 06-25-2019, 06:23 AM
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I'm about to get some traction stuff to put on my tires. I don't understand why I'm spinning the tires when I used to hook? And others all seem to hook. I'm thinking that anything goes since I'm not even racing anyone, except for bragging rights. So the sticky stuff isn't *really* cheating. Maybe I'll try just once more launching with a lower RPM. How the hell are brand new cars hooking so well with either plain tires (or maybe street slicks)? Is 4 link rear suspension really that good for launching? Or is it just good for overall handling in turns?
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  #184 (permalink)  
Old 06-25-2019, 06:51 AM
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Are they 4-link or independent suspensions? My old '66 Vette with the 331 motor could stick the street tires (old G60 stuff) and lift the front end with the independent rear. But those half-shafts wouldn't survive that continual beating very long.
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  #185 (permalink)  
Old 06-25-2019, 07:41 AM
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I guess the vettes are independent, I was thinking that but not typing that. But how about a Dodge Charger?
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  #186 (permalink)  
Old 06-25-2019, 07:57 AM
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Vette, Charger, Camaro, Mustang are all IRS
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  #187 (permalink)  
Old 06-25-2019, 09:04 AM
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Hmm, this boggles/bothers me. I can usually picture and understand most mechanical things but I can't quite grasp why IRS would launch better. I thought it was just for cornering.
I did a little search and over and over they say that irs is good for cornering and not as good for drag racing. Here is one article.

https://www.cjponyparts.com/resource...lid-rear-axles
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  #188 (permalink)  
Old 06-25-2019, 09:16 AM
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I think when they say "not as good" they mean the reliability of the irs, believe me anyone that could keep half-shafts in the Vettes back in the day had killer setups. But most of the time the carnage was so bad that most gave up and put a straight rear under the car. I finally moved up to big block half-shafts and they were infinitely better but I still had problems with the hubs coming apart and twisting the shafts.
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  #189 (permalink)  
Old 06-25-2019, 10:51 AM
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A friend that was at a Mustang event was telling me about the half-shaft carnage, alot of the cars had never been on a dragstrip, about every 3rd car to run tossed a shaft.
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  #190 (permalink)  
Old 06-25-2019, 02:34 PM
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Drag slicks can also just be "Done" before the tread depth indicators are gone, depends on age, how hard they were burnt on previous burnouts.
Sidewalls also go away from being flexed too much....I know of guys running in some of the fast street/drag stuff like X275 or Outlaw Street who only get 10 or so passes out of a new set of 29.5" x 11.5"slicks before the 60 foot time goes to crap, and the sole reason is the car launches very hard, it beats the sidewall to death long before the compound tread is used up.

Check the date codes on what you've got.....if it is anything over two years back I would not be surprised if they are shot.

I also know that following the break-in procedure helps a lot with life too
M/T's procedure they want you to follow is one good medium hot burnout, then park them for a day to let them cure.....too many burnouts right at the beginning limits their life span.
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  #191 (permalink)  
Old 06-25-2019, 03:22 PM
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Some of radial tire guys are using tire soaker like the oval racers have been using for years, makes the tires really good but they are done after one weekend, so they sell them as 'almost new drag radials'.
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  #192 (permalink)  
Old 06-25-2019, 03:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chasracer View Post
I think when they say "not as good" they mean the reliability of the irs, believe me anyone that could keep half-shafts in the Vettes back in the day had killer setups. But most of the time the carnage was so bad that most gave up and put a straight rear under the car. I finally moved up to big block half-shafts and they were infinitely better but I still had problems with the hubs coming apart and twisting the shafts.

Hmm, never knew that.
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  #193 (permalink)  
Old 06-25-2019, 05:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72 View Post
Drag slicks can also just be "Done" before the tread depth indicators are gone, depends on age, how hard they were burnt on previous burnouts.
Sidewalls also go away from being flexed too much....I know of guys running in some of the fast street/drag stuff like X275 or Outlaw Street who only get 10 or so passes out of a new set of 29.5" x 11.5"slicks before the 60 foot time goes to crap, and the sole reason is the car launches very hard, it beats the sidewall to death long before the compound tread is used up.

Check the date codes on what you've got.....if it is anything over two years back I would not be surprised if they are shot.

I also know that following the break-in procedure helps a lot with life too
M/T's procedure they want you to follow is one good medium hot burnout, then park them for a day to let them cure.....too many burnouts right at the beginning limits their life span.

Hoosier does some strange date codes, I think you need to call them to get a date. Mine are stamped 9CR3.

I'm not going to worry about it. I just may buy some tire sticky stuff and see what it does. They are almost worn out so it's no loss anyway even if it peels all the rubber off the tire.

I'm not buying new slicks until (or IF) I do something to the engine to give it more HP that I really can feel on the street. That's all I went to the track for in the beginning anyway, just to see how fast and how much HP it had. So for now my racing days are over. (actually they never started) I'm not spending money on new slicks just to see that the Skip White BBC oval port heads and the intake they suggested didn't increase my HP by more than 1 or 2% over my stock 781 heads.
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  #194 (permalink)  
Old 06-25-2019, 07:47 PM
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Does your car feel stronger, I mean more power all around?

Were the 781's ported or anything, if they are, you may not get much of a difference until you get in the higher rpms.

You have the heads, so you could rebuild your engine to take full advantage of them, larger dome pistons, bigger cam, you get the idea. But, you'll lose low end grunt in exchange for high rpm power.

Or, even better, it runs and seems to run fine, so maybe just doing some tuning and a little money( jets, squirters, afr gauge, etc), then be happy.

Skip always recommends more cubes because you get more usable power. And he happens to have the parts to part you with your money to do it. What is a more street able 700hp engine, 406 sbc or a 632 bbc, see where I'm going?
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  #195 (permalink)  
Old 06-26-2019, 06:56 AM
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Feel stronger? No.

The 781's are bone stock. Was it pretty good to have been making 400hp with those stock heads?(maybe just under depending on what calculator you use) I forget what the valve sizes are in them but the new ones with 2.25" intakes looked huge compared to the old.

At this point I'm far from ready to rebuild the bottom end, it actually just turned 10,000 miles and was my first build ever so I'm sort of proud of it. I know, that's like 500,000 miles on a race motor, but mine was driven a lot more than raced. Although I drive it hard, just love the feel going WOT and it downshifting. By far it's the fastest car *I* ever had. And I really don't get how streetable it is, even the cam which comp says has a rough idle, I can easily idle down to 500rpm once it's good and hot.

I have an a/f gauge and with the Qjet it was not perfect but ok. Some fairly large jumps when transitioning from cruise to wot. Since I put the Holley on it, it's so darn near perfect and the a/f is smooth as silk going WOT with no lean or rich swings. It could possibly use one size bigger jets in the secondaries but it's really close. Quite frankly I'm amazed at how smooth the transition between different rpm's to wot it is.

Someone I think on this group once posted some little metal things to help atomize the squirter fuel, well I had made my own a couple years ago before the ones shown were on the market. I don't know if it helps anything but maybe I'll take a short video of the rear squirter in action. It's really easy to make and fans out the squirt to a spray. If nothing gained in performance, it's cool to see it in action anyway. And it's a spreadbore so that rear squirter is pretty large.

Yes, more cubes is easier to make more power without being too radical for the street. Not at this point in time. He does have the parts, and at a good price too (I think?) for the entire rotating assembly. It's listed at $1,300 something but I think with all the extras he recommended I thought he told me $1700. but don't quote me on that. If I run across a good 4 bolt block I just may get it to start the ball rolling. I don't know if I should settle for a 2 bolt with the lower rpms I run? Skip said the kits he sells, the engines don't need to go above 5500rpms?? I drive my car a lot and waiting for machine shops and such drives me nuts. (more than I am).
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