Skip White SBC 383 rotating assembly review - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans Advertise
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2016, 06:22 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 274
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 21
Thanked 27 Times in 25 Posts
Skip White SBC 383 rotating assembly review

I thought I'd pass this along because I'm sure there are plenty of people wondering if these Skip White rotating assemblies that are on Ebay are a good deal.
First off, I needed a small block Chevy for a 51 Studebaker truck I picked up. I decided it would be a perfect candidate for a 383 and decided to try one of these rotating assemblies. This is going to be a STREET DRIVEN vehicle not raced. I wanted something that sounded mean, pulled hard, and was very streetable. The truck will have a 2004r transmission, 2000 stall converter, and 3.42 gears. I opted for the 24cc reverse dome pistons and I will be using Vortec heads (camshaft has yet to be determined).
So I stripped a virgin (never been taken apart or rebuilt) 1970 350 4 bolt main block and took it to my local machine shop to have it cleaned, checked for cracks, line bored, and to see what oversize the bore will clean up at. A week later they called me and said it cleaned up at .030 over. So I went on Ebay and ordered the rotating assembly. They gave me a delivery time of about 1 1/2 -2 weeks. It showed up a day short of 2 weeks. It came in two boxes (crank in a separate box) and everything was in good shape. I unboxed everything and it is all legit stuff with all the factory instructions. It also had a packing list and a balance sheet. I took one piston and the clearance specs to my machine shop for final cylinder to piston clearance.
Couple days later I got a call that the block was done. I picked up the block and did a mock up to see what the deck height was. Now Skip White advertises that he has these Wiseco pistons made special with a taller pin to piston top height so only around .010 needs to be taken off the deck to get the pistons at zero deck height. I found that the left side deck height was .004-.008 front to back and the right side was .007- .018 front to back. So I think I'm just going to use a .038 thick head gasket and not have it decked and call it good. I switched the highest with the lowest pistons and nothing changed so I know its in the deck.
This is just a heads up that these rotating assemblies are a good deal but might not work if your block has already been decked or decked to 9.00 like some machine shops do.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2016, 06:47 PM
techinspector1's Avatar
Member
 
Last wiki edit: DynoSim combinations
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Zephyrhills, Florida, USA
Age: 77
Posts: 17,075
Wiki Edits: 326

Thanks: 1,978
Thanked 2,879 Times in 2,152 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by vpd66 View Post
I found that the left side deck height was .004-.008 front to back and the right side was .007- .018 front to back. So I think I'm just going to use a .038 thick head gasket and not have it decked and call it good. I switched the highest with the lowest pistons and nothing changed so I know its in the deck.
This is just a heads up that these rotating assemblies are a good deal but might not work if your block has already been decked or decked to 9.00 like some machine shops do.
I think you're making a mistake. Register the block on the mains and cut both decks to zero. Starting off a build with a lolly-gagged deck height is not the hot tip in the old techinspector1 playbook. If the block is lolly-gagged, the heads will be lolly-gagged on the block and the intake manifold doesn't have a prayer of sitting square on the heads and has little chance of sealing up with the head ports. This motor, if you put it together like that, will undoubtedly suck oily crankcase vapors into the cylinders and foul plugs with regularity.

Cut the decks to zero and use a Fel-Pro 1003 head gasket to generate a 0.041" squish/quench. The same gasket is what you want to use when you change over to aluminum heads later on.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2016, 07:48 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 274
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 21
Thanked 27 Times in 25 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
I think you're making a mistake. Register the block on the mains and cut both decks to zero. Starting off a build with a lolly-gagged deck height is not the hot tip in the old techinspector1 playbook. If the block is lolly-gagged, the heads will be lolly-gagged on the block and the intake manifold doesn't have a prayer of sitting square on the heads and has little chance of sealing up with the head ports. This motor, if you put it together like that, will undoubtedly suck oily crankcase vapors into the cylinders and foul plugs with regularity.

Cut the decks to zero and use a Fel-Pro 1003 head gasket to generate a 0.041" squish/quench. The same gasket is what you want to use when you change over to aluminum heads later on.
So..... When #2 piston is .007 in the hole and #8 is .018 in the hole how much do you take off to get zero deck height?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2016, 08:48 PM
techinspector1's Avatar
Member
 
Last wiki edit: DynoSim combinations
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Zephyrhills, Florida, USA
Age: 77
Posts: 17,075
Wiki Edits: 326

Thanks: 1,978
Thanked 2,879 Times in 2,152 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by vpd66 View Post
So..... When #2 piston is .007 in the hole and #8 is .018 in the hole how much do you take off to get zero deck height?
You want to cut the block decks to the main bearing bore, not the piston crowns. You begin with the lightest cut at #2. When you lay the block into the mill, you will register it on the main bearing bore and the mill will cut from there. It will cut 0.007" off the block at the #2 hole and as the cutter goes to the rear, it will cut 0.018" off the block at the #8 hole because the block will be angled up going to the rear. In this way, the piston deck height will be zero on all cylinders, assuming the piston/rod/crank throws are all the same, cylinder to cylinder. Then you use a Fel-Pro 1003 head gasket to make a 0.041" squish/quench and all is right with the world. In this way, you will be set up to use either iron or aluminum heads and the squish/quench will be right for either. Use the same gasket for either one.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2016, 09:14 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 274
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 21
Thanked 27 Times in 25 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
You want to cut the block decks to the main bearing bore, not the piston crowns. You begin with the lightest cut at #2. When you lay the block into the mill, you will register it on the main bearing bore and the mill will cut from there. It will cut 0.007" off the block at the #2 hole and as the cutter goes to the rear, it will cut 0.018" off the block at the #8 hole because the block will be angled up going to the rear. In this way, the piston deck height will be zero on all cylinders, assuming the piston/rod/crank throws are all the same, cylinder to cylinder. Then you use a Fel-Pro 1003 head gasket to make a 0.041" squish/quench and all is right with the world. In this way, you will be set up to use either iron or aluminum heads and the squish/quench will be right for either. Use the same gasket for either one.
I understand they will mount the block by the main bearing bore to cut the deck square to the main bearing bore. The way I see it the right side deck (the one that is .007 in front and .018 in the back) is .011 out of square with the main bearing bore (that will make it square with the main bearing bore) and then another .007 to zero deck it. So .018 off the deck will square it and have the pistons at zero deck height. The other side #1 piston is .004 in the hole and #8 is .008 in the hole. So .004 to square it and another .004 to bring it to zero deck height. Am I right. I'm going to take the block in this week to get the decks cut.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2016, 10:02 PM
ericnova72's Avatar
More for Less Racer
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: S.W. Lower Michigan
Age: 53
Posts: 17,831
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 274
Thanked 3,266 Times in 2,736 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by vpd66 View Post
I understand they will mount the block by the main bearing bore to cut the deck square to the main bearing bore. The way I see it the right side deck (the one that is .007 in front and .018 in the back) is .011 out of square with the main bearing bore (that will make it square with the main bearing bore) and then another .007 to zero deck it. So .018 off the deck will square it and have the pistons at zero deck height. The other side #1 piston is .004 in the hole and #8 is .008 in the hole. So .004 to square it and another .004 to bring it to zero deck height. Am I right. I'm going to take the block in this week to get the decks cut.
That is correct
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2016, 10:20 PM
johnsongrass1's Avatar
Race it, Don't rice it!
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Columbia, Mo
Age: 43
Posts: 7,182
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 122
Thanked 785 Times in 639 Posts
If the shop can, its better to index the cam bore because you cam move the decks and main bores a little but you can't move the cam bore without going to 50mm cam.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
skipwhite's 383 ROTATING ASSEMBLY 1981zapper Hotrodding Basics 17 01-13-2013 12:46 AM
383 sbc rotating assembly balance question Balls Engine 5 01-02-2013 08:07 PM
Balanced 383 Rotating Assembly, Have some questions? crussell85 Engine 11 01-31-2012 09:56 PM
383 rotating assembly crossbolted Engine 10 01-27-2012 02:32 PM
Skip white 383 crate motor on ebay rbat Engine 14 12-27-2009 12:05 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:16 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.