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Old 04-21-2019, 07:04 PM
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Smallest diameter SBC long water pump pulley

As the title indicates, I'm looking for a small water pump pulley. I currently have a 5.5" pulley, but would be better suited with a smaller pulley.

Thanks in advance - Jim

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Old 04-22-2019, 01:41 PM
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Might fit might not. Call them .


https://pitstopusa.com/i-5073189-jon...xoCHQUQAvD_BwE

If your running reverse rotation there are several smooth 4" ones out which you can modify.
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Old 04-22-2019, 02:45 PM
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Should've menetioned that it's a double v-belt.
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Old 04-22-2019, 05:52 PM
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The 5.5" you've currently got is the smallest I've personally found....and I've not even seen an aftermarket aluminum V-belt pulley that small, they are always larger than that.

My guess would be you are probably looking at custom making one, as most racing set-ups go larger on the pump and smaller on the crank to slow them down .

What reason are you looking to get a smaller pump pulley than the current one??
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Old 05-02-2019, 06:51 PM
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Trying to spin the water pump faster at idle. But I guess I'm going to have to go with a larger crank pulley. Presently I have a custom made 5.5" crank pulley woth a 36-1 trigger wheel mounted on it. I was trying to re-use that, but I guess a larger crank pulley and putting another trigger wheel on it will be the plan.
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Old 05-02-2019, 06:59 PM
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Why not use a higher flow water pump that won't caviitate.
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Old 05-03-2019, 03:07 AM
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I'm using a Stewart Stage 2 presently. And it works very well at highway speeds and at full load. I was considering running an electric pump until I spoke to the tech people at Mezierre and they recommended against it.

I've researched different pumps, but I have no real experience. Every manufacturer claims theirs is better than the rest.

Tell me what's 'higher flow' than what I have?
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Old 05-03-2019, 08:17 AM
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What are we working on and what is the issue you want to change?
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Old 05-03-2019, 04:27 PM
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More flow at idle (below 900 rpm's) - using a 5.5. crank and water pump pulley. Triple pass radiator, remote t-stat housing fed by #12 lines.World Motown LS.
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Old 05-03-2019, 04:47 PM
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You've got 5.5" water pump AND same diameter crank pulley??

All the factory stuff I've ever seen with the 5.5" waterpump pulley has at least a 7" crank pulley on it.

You fighting temp creep up at idle....or trying to cool it down faster/fighting slow return to cool after coming back from a WOT blast or highway cruise??

2 -12AN lines seems small to me, wouldn't a pair of -16AN or -20AN be sized more appropriate for the volume load?? You got to get the water into the radiator to get it cooled.
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Old 05-03-2019, 08:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72 View Post
You've got 5.5" water pump AND same diameter crank pulley??
Yes and yes

All the factory stuff I've ever seen with the 5.5" waterpump pulley has at least a 7" crank pulley on it.

You fighting temp creep up at idle....or trying to cool it down faster/fighting slow return to cool after coming back from a WOT blast or highway cruise??

Low RPM / idle creep only. Cools GREAT on WOT pulls and highway driving

2 -12AN lines seems small to me, wouldn't a pair of -16AN or -20AN be sized more appropriate for the volume load?? You got to get the water into the radiator to get it cooled.
#12 is what the T-stat housing inlets are. Putting in larger hoses to have them restricted at the housing seems not fruitful.
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Old 05-03-2019, 10:52 PM
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Yeah, that info helps a lot. If it cools fine out on the highway it isn't a volume/line size to the radiator problem.

Have you tried an experiment of removing the hood, to see if it is a trapped air/stagnant air problem, when there is no forward motion forcing air in through the bay??

I'm usually fighting the opposite problem with naturally aspirated street/strip cars....the common factory pulley ratio's spin the pump too fast when you add the deeper gears the street/strip guys use. We have to slow the pump down to either keep the belts on or prevent cavitation.
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Old 05-04-2019, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72 View Post
Yeah, that info helps a lot. If it cools fine out on the highway it isn't a volume/line size to the radiator problem.

Have you tried an experiment of removing the hood, to see if it is a trapped air/stagnant air problem, when there is no forward motion forcing air in through the bay??

I'm usually fighting the opposite problem with naturally aspirated street/strip cars....the common factory pulley ratio's spin the pump too fast when you add the deeper gears the street/strip guys use. We have to slow the pump down to either keep the belts on or prevent cavitation.
Thanks for the input. I see that I can get a 6.5-6.625 pulley. I'm going with it. Figuring that it's about 20% more circumference and raising the rpms from 800-950 resolves the issue. I've thought about this too much lol - thanks for the advice everyone.

Eric - I sent you a PM - I'm on living on main bearing Struggle St for some reason - looking for some input
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