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Old 09-29-2017, 10:20 PM
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I can dig the simplicity. Adjusting the band clamp might tune for viscosity. Wonder if some window screen over the tip held by the clamp would help it atomize. Are you gonna put a mixing cup under wherever it drips out? Hey maybe you could use a paint roller pan or foil bakeware to recover the excess drippage? I think its fantastic that more folks are directing attention to the unreachable areas. It just makes sense. Nothing says you couldn't give it a double hit of corrosion protection and use waxoil type stuff too at some point. That stuff really hangs in the air as fog and gets everywhere.

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Old 09-29-2017, 11:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
I can dig the simplicity. Adjusting the band clamp might tune for viscosity. Wonder if some window screen over the tip held by the clamp would help it atomize. Are you gonna put a mixing cup under wherever it drips out? Hey maybe you could use a paint roller pan or foil bakeware to recover the excess drippage? I think its fantastic that more folks are directing attention to the unreachable areas. It just makes sense. Nothing says you couldn't give it a double hit of corrosion protection and use waxoil type stuff too at some point. That stuff really hangs in the air as fog and gets everywhere.
I may use that wax instead, I haven't made up my mind. I just love the real epoxy protection but the thing is it probably needs to be clean to work where the wax is pretty amazing at coating anything.

Your screen idea, again, out of the blew a prepper at the shop gave me that idea showing me the screen on a paint filter! A friggin good old 3m cup filter, peel it off and tape it over the hole, what an idea! Now you are throwing it out there again, it cracks me up how when you ask you get these great ideas you never thought of!

Thanks

Brian
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Old 09-30-2017, 06:27 AM
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Cool

My first thought was yeah one of those screen things that go in a gravity cup, then an EPS carb's inlet screen. But I figured window screen is more likely to be laying around. Improvise sensibly.
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Old 10-01-2017, 06:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
I am wondering if anyone has any good ways of spraying inside areas like doors and frame rails and stuff like that. I have a number of hidden areas on the truck that I would love to coat. I have "cavity wax" stuff at work that I may be able to modify but I am wondering what you guys may have done.

I found stuff like this at Eastwood but that's about it. It is primer like I want but it's an aerosol, I would really like to spray a good epoxy primer in there.



Eastwood Internal Frame Coating 14oz Aerosol


Brian
I have used that Eastwood product on my '70 Impala: the cans come with a long hose sprayer that sprays all around and works great.
On the other hand, it is amazing how this green product does NOT work! I had sprayed that product in many hollow areas on my car, some more or less, or partly visible: well, after 4 years, the areas I can see are covered with surface rust like I never sprayed anything! (under the trunk lid, or inside the quarter panels, for instance). Must be the same where I cannot see (rocker panels...), I will have to redo the whole thing with something else... but may use the Eastwood tips again, though!
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Old 10-01-2017, 09:04 AM
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On coating the inside of the frame I need to say please don't.

The reason comes from welding.

Say you want to add a simple tab for a break line. You take the area down to bare metal, prep both surfaces, then tack the thing.

You weld down the one side and begin smelling rubber. You search around then weld the other side smelling more rubber maybe seeing some smoke. You weld the third side and see a good amount of smoke coming out of the frame ends due to a small fire being in there. Douse it with water and shock the weld or let it burn causing the shop to stink.

I tend to burn it off and finish the weld.






Moisture causes rust(salt, sand, and rocks don't help) You can try to block the moisture. But it is a tricky mistress. Just like water it will find a way to get into areas from a point on the other side of the car if need be.
I live in Michigan I know rust.

You need to etch the surface with something like a eastwood product on the inside or there will remain a gap that the moisture will love to hide inside pooling and rusting that spot that you thought was protected.

The thing is going to corrode. I don't care if it is made of stainless, aluminum, or different grades of steel it will react with the other materials and corrode, abs, carbon, and so on they all degrade over time one way or another.

Just face the fact that it will not last forever and at some point you will need to cut out the cancer and weld in new material.
If you want to prolong it you can by properly etching it, applying a primer, then a few mills of paint. But all it is going to take is a bit of sand to wear through those mills and rust to squeeze it's way under the paint and you have paint bubbles.
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Old 10-05-2017, 08:07 PM
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Wand sprayer

A great tool for spraying rust treatments and paints into any sort of cavities is a Harbor freight engine cleaning gun. It will blow rust remover and heavier paints at least 2 1/2 feet. Works great for rockers and hard-to-reach areas. They cost nine bucks.
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Old 10-05-2017, 09:59 PM
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Thanks

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Old 10-22-2017, 04:39 PM
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20 years ago when I was selling Rust bullet, I had a guy buy 10 gallons of it, over $400. He stood his Corvette frame on end, plugged the holes in it, and poured 5 gallons of paint in each one. The lifted up the frame and let it drain back into the buckets. Of course since it's a moisture cure paint, what he drained out was useless since it was already curing, but he got the frame coated.

You might consider Boeshield T9. You can get it from Amazon in gallons and it sprays very well. About $110 a gallon, They have it in quarts too.

Also TSC sells spray nozzles for field sprayers, you might take a look at them.

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Old 04-17-2018, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
I may use that wax instead, I haven't made up my mind. I just love the real epoxy protection but the thing is it probably needs to be clean to work where the wax is pretty amazing at coating anything.

Your screen idea, again, out of the blew a prepper at the shop gave me that idea showing me the screen on a paint filter! A friggin good old 3m cup filter, peel it off and tape it over the hole, what an idea! Now you are throwing it out there again, it cracks me up how when you ask you get these great ideas you never thought of!

Thanks

Brian
It's been a couple months, just wondering what you ended up using and how well it worked.
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Old 04-17-2018, 09:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cowboy_dan View Post
It's been a couple months, just wondering what you ended up using and how well it worked.
LOL, I haven't done a thing! But I think I am going to use a system I made with an underseal gun and a rubber hose with epoxy primer to spray.

Brian
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Old 04-18-2018, 05:49 AM
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Found some old pics and one of them is a close up of a 3M Rust Fighter wand. Might shed some light. The cap rotates so you can direct the spray in different orientations.

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Old 04-18-2018, 06:26 AM
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That wand by itself (3M #8998) is around thirty bucks on amazon.
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Old 04-18-2018, 06:59 AM
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LOL, I haven't done a thing! But I think I am going to use a system I made with an underseal gun and a rubber hose with epoxy primer to spray.

Brian

SPI, other? Thinned to flow better, or just as you would spray normally?





Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
Found some old pics and one of them is a close up of a 3M Rust Fighter wand. Might shed some light. The cap rotates so you can direct the spray in different orientations.


Any idea how it would handle an epoxy primer? Those holes look pretty large for anything paint-like to be able to spray.
I look up that 3m PN on amazon, and here's what I see:
Frequently bought together
3M 08998 Rust Fighter-I Application Wand $31.17
Astro 4538 Economy Air Undercoat Gun $14.43 3M 08864 Body Schutz Rubberized Coating Black - 30.4 fl oz $33.89

All the rubberized coating's I've seen are pretty thick even compared to primer.
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Old 04-18-2018, 11:29 AM
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The rust fighter is fairly soupy, viscosity-wise. Not terribly heavy bodied. The plastic wand is the kind of plastic that would swell if left in thinner but I believe you could put epoxy through it then purge it with thinner then air.
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