stainless flex lines off the mastercylinder - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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Old 01-31-2020, 01:00 PM
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stainless flex lines off the mastercylinder

doing brakes lines now. and I had 2 people tell me I could run 18" of stainless flex lines (dot) off the master cylinder to a junction on the firewall. will this work? does anyone have a set up like so? and how do you like it?

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Old 01-31-2020, 01:44 PM
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Can't ses why it shouldn't work.
I would have clamped or secured it, to make sure it won't pick up vibration from the body during driving and come into some self-reinforcing vibrating cycle that might breake it over time.
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Old 01-31-2020, 05:00 PM
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You can do it, but it isn't the best practice. The more hose you include in a system, the more spongy the pedal can feel. This is because no hose can be as rigid internally as a solid steel tube line....they expand slightly every time the system is pressurized.

It is best to save hose connections for only where freedom of part movement is needed...frame to front calipers and either frame to axle housing or frame to rear calipers/axle housing to rear caliper flex points(floating calipers).

That's why you don't see OEM's use hose between master cylinder and firewall junctions or ABS modules, it is always hard lines.

To allow for vibration, they typically use a couple of looped coils to a line between the master and the car body/frame. Just wind the line a couple wraps around a piece of pipe or exhaust tubing.

I have seen one instance on a car where the builder ran the PTFE braided hose the full length of the car....and had to redo it because it would never fully apply the brakes, no matter what size bore master cylinder was on it....too much expansion in all that line. If you pumped it three times quick it would hold, but that isn't a safe way to go down the road.
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Old 01-31-2020, 08:51 PM
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Millions of racecars out there with SS Braided all the way. I don't have issues with any of mine and it's nylon front to back except the the corners.
I wish we weren't rained out or I'd show ya.
If you did go braided, I'd go short. 12" or less.
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Old 02-01-2020, 08:44 AM
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With ni-copp being so easy to bend and flare , I'm curious why the desire to mess with extra flex lines ?
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Old 02-01-2020, 08:59 AM
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I agree with 2old, the ni-copper is nice to work with and can be polished easily. Different color in the engine bay will add a pleasant contrast to chrome.
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Old 02-01-2020, 12:14 PM
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I agree with nicop lines, thats what I am using now and its great to work with , but if I needed to take my inner fenders out they will hit the 8" booster so i will need to take the master cylinder off to do so and re bleed the system again. with a 12 in stainless flex hose i can un bolt it and move it to the side . just makes pre maintence easier
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Old 02-01-2020, 11:58 PM
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Taking out the inner fenders going to be a frequent practice ? Wonder why ? ??
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Old 02-03-2020, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slammed57 View Post
I agree with nicop lines, thats what I am using now and its great to work with , but if I needed to take my inner fenders out they will hit the 8" booster so i will need to take the master cylinder off to do so and re bleed the system again. with a 12 in stainless flex hose i can un bolt it and move it to the side . just makes pre maintence easier
I get slack for having my lines ran in such a manner. But it lets me do exactly as your describing and has not leaked a drop in over a year of driving on roads and bouncing this old girls bones through rutted trails in the woods.

No need to remove any lines just pull the bolts and tie the master up against the inner fender to gain easier access to the head or get some clearance during engine removal/install. In your case you could tie it to a engine bracket.

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Old 02-04-2020, 08:18 AM
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I have a Kugel reverse mount behind-dash unit for my brake and clutch master cylinders. I did run hard line for both brake circuits from the m/c to the firewall bulkhead connection, but I did use a flex line for the -4AN clutch m/c connection. The main reason at the time was that I didn't have a good -4 tubing bender and since the distance was very short, I went with the flex line. Mine is a DOT approved flex line from Classic Tube.
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Old 02-05-2020, 06:23 PM
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I had 90 degree brake line parts from a Harley Davidson and then use the flex lines
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Old 02-05-2020, 07:15 PM
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Another option is using a wedge.

You place a steel wedge between the firewall and booster which angles the master towards the inner fender.
You need to use a heim joint in your pedal linkage to account for the angle change during travel.

A 90 degree could also be made using a remote resivior
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Old 02-06-2020, 06:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slammed57 View Post
I agree with nicop lines, thats what I am using now and its great to work with , but if I needed to take my inner fenders out they will hit the 8" booster so i will need to take the master cylinder off to do so and re bleed the system again. with a 12 in stainless flex hose i can un bolt it and move it to the side . just makes pre maintence easier

You should be ablw to remove the master cylinder and move it toward the engine quite far without removing the brake lines. A while ago I put a new hydro boost on my van pulling the master cylinder off and out of the way then re-installing it with no problems, and that's a tight fit. And with NiCopp even easier.
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