starter and fly wheel problems
I have a problem with a 1979 chevy 350 starter and fly wheel i tried shims new starter bolts. the transmission is a 2 speed power glide. i have gone through 10 of each now i don't know what to do. the motor starts right up and after 4 to 5 starts is back to grinding again.
Bad flywheel ring gear, did you check the tooth clearance, are you using the CORRECT starter mounting bolts?
More specifics would help with answers.
Type of starter - stock, aftermarket?
Type of flexplate - stock, aftermarket
Type of bolts- GM stuff, good or bad aftermarket
When you say 10 of each do you mean, starters and bolts or starters and flexplates?
If you are using aftermarket flexplates are they the run of the mill stuff or SFI certified?
If you haven't changed out the flexplate (a lot of work) then that's where you should start as it could be damaged, bent or not fitted to the crank correctly.
Maybe you need a starter brace.
Chevy flexplates and flywheels come in 153 and 164 count teeth, these differ in diameter which drives how the starter bolts up. You need to know what the tooth count is. The 153 picks up the straight bolt pattern, the 164 uses the skewed bolt pattern.
An all too common problem is the block starter mounting horn is cracked or broken. This will allow the starter to move around. There is no real good fix for this, if present the block is mostly consideted junk.
The motor uses proprietary bolts that form an interferance fit with the starter's mounting block. There is no stability when using any other standard bodied bolt, or if the mounting holes are worn or redrilled such that the bolt body fit is lost; with any of those conditions the starter will move after a few cycles.
Typical clearance between installed teeth crown of starter pinion to root of flexplate gear is 3/32nds to 1/8th inch, a jumbo paper clip can be bent into a measuring tool.
If you use the older large starter that uses wound stator magnets instead of the later permananet magnet stator which is a much smaller motor, then the large motor version must use a backside brace that supports the motor on the brush end. Without this the motor will twist the forward mounting bolts this causes at the least the grinding of teeth at the worst it busts the block usually at the outboard bolt hole.
A modern small diameter permanent magnet motor does not need the rear motor support, but often these have longitudinal ( front to rear) tooth engagement problems. Those where the mount is a seperate piece from the motor can be shimmed. For motors that cannot be shimmed in that direction the flexplate has to be shimmed at the crank hub.
Bogie,168 tooth iirc
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