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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 04-03-2017, 08:37 PM
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Dang I just got this starter the other day at a local oreillys....... and yes the converter probably has a 1/16 or so play between flex plate and tranny when unbolted as you said Hcompton, but I know it won't spin easy like you say, it requires a good bit of effort... does this mean I need a converter too?

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Old 04-03-2017, 08:38 PM
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The gap could be about 1/8 now that I think about it.....
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Old 04-04-2017, 04:13 PM
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Starter kicking out during cranking is usually because its firing to early on the compression stroke causing the motor to stop dead.

I agree you need to check your timing so its at least a few degree advanced, 6-10 is usually stock. Then check your firing order and ensure the distributor wires are on the right plugs, two wires swapped will do exactly what your describing.

Good wiring is important and needs to be in good condition but the idea that those of us "up north" need to change it every few years is kind of funny, 45 year old wiring could very well be an issue but many of my vehicles ran original wiring their entire life and all they ever needed was new terminals when they got corroded...something easy to prevent with some silicone grease once they were cleaned up.

You need to investigate and verify basics before throwing money at this issue, if you replaced the main seals on a two piece seal crank the torque required to rotate the motor is often very high...I've seen 50 ft/pds on a torque wrench to rotate the motor after replacing them.
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Old 04-04-2017, 04:31 PM
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4 Jaw Chuck I will go out in a few minutes and make sure on the timing, but I have run through the firing order with the wires too. I'll also make sure the ground is good. Haven't been out to the shop in a few days. Stock on my truck was 8 but I like it normally set about 12-14
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Old 04-04-2017, 04:32 PM
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And I have replaced head gaskets, rod bearings, rings, front and rear mains as well.
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Old 04-04-2017, 09:23 PM
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I did use moly graphite liberally on EVERYTHING when I assembled this engine and pre oiled everything AND primed the oil pump for several minutes (high volume/high pressure Melling pump) I'm kind of scared about cam/lifter/crank failure.... I'm in high school and don't have the money to pay for a new engine lol. Didn't pull the main bearings or pull the crank btw just did rod bearings. I will make sure the engine is grounded properly when I get out to the shop, I have 2 straps in the tool box but it didn't have any when I started messing with it....... I bet that's my problem not flowing enough current. Will try all these electrical suggestions this week and see how it turns out. Will post if I find what's wrong. Thanks all
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Old 04-05-2017, 05:55 PM
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I seriously doubt over-torquing of a rod bolt caused any issue with the engine, its far more likely your bearings were not checked for proper clearance when they were installed...at worst you exceeded the tensile strength of the bolt and went beyond the elastic range and permanently stretched the bolt or if you failed to support the rod cap with feeler gauges during the torque procedure you twisted/cocked them slightly.

Hopefully you did your due diligence and at least used plastigauge to check for proper oil clearance and supported the caps with feeler gauges during torquing.

If you use a rod bolt stretch gauge to check torque you will often exceed the recommended torque by 10ft/pds and this does not change the rod big end shape in any way. If you go further you just stretch the bolt until it breaks, these bolts clamp a solid surface against another...its not like a head bolt clamping a gasket that deforms as torque goes up or the distortion caused in the block bore from the unsupported head bolt bosses creating stress in a thin cast iron cross section torqued at 90 degrees to the bore.

This "overtorque" advice borders on ridiculous and I've never seen it myself, if I did I would be looking for a reason why these solid steel objects under compression were changing shape from a simple clamping force change...its not like you are exceeding the compression strength of forged steel without something being very wrong.

I would like it proved to me with a dial bore mic that there would be more than or equal to a 1/10th of a thousandth of an inch change from changing bolt torque on a rod which is far less than the proper clearance.

I say BS, prove it.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 04-05-2017, 06:49 PM
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You've verified your timing so that's good. Its probably just your starter/solonoid or wiring. I would not post anything else on here until you at least check those two things. At the very least you could try jumping the solenoid or just remove the starter and hook it to a battery to see if its working. If you're hesitant to trace what little wiring is there, shoot you could pull a truck or car up there, hook a jumper cable from its battery to your starter, grab a push button start switch and see what happens.
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Old 05-01-2017, 08:21 AM
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Got the engine broken in yesterday. Minor problem installing rods did no damage.
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Old 05-01-2017, 09:26 AM
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Inquiring minds want to know... What was causing the cranking issues?

Dave
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Old 05-01-2017, 03:46 PM
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I had 4 of the rods with the big bevel facing toward the other rod, not toward the crank (ready for flaming). Re assembled and retorqued all the rods and it turns fine now. First timer mistake won't happen again.
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Old 05-01-2017, 03:47 PM
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There was so much pressure on the crank that the starter wouldn't turn it so I pulled it back out.
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