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Old 04-02-2017, 08:56 PM
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Starter Problems

I just have rebuilt the 350 In my c10 and put in new rings, making it hard to turn over. New stock starter is going really slow and after a few secs of turning, it disengages and pops really loud (168 tooth flex plate) Do I need a high torque starter? I have stock heads but will upgrade to aluminum when budget allows. Also is cammed and has a Th350 with stock stall. Thanks

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Old 04-02-2017, 10:13 PM
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Where is the timing? Best to do the simple things before you start throwing parts at it.
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Old 04-03-2017, 06:10 AM
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I agree new rings should not put that kind of load on it. Pull the plugs then spin it, make a note of the difference... Assuming the gaps and rings were fitted correctly of course.


Greg
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Old 04-03-2017, 09:27 AM
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As others have stated, make sure that you do not have a connection or ground problem first. Remove all of the cables and ground straps, and clean all of the connections to clean bright metal before reinstalling. MY '98 C1500 was doing the same thing. Cleaning all of the battery connections and ground straps helped, but I did end up replacing the starter as well. I went with a new OEM style high torque starter, which was optional for the '98 that I have. Spins the new engine over very quickly, and has a lifetime warranty. I can get another at pretty much any parts store if needed, which is something worth considering as well.


Dave
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Old 04-03-2017, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 72c10EP View Post
I just have rebuilt the 350 In my c10 and put in new rings, making it hard to turn over. New stock starter is going really slow and after a few secs of turning, it disengages and pops really loud (168 tooth flex plate) Do I need a high torque starter? I have stock heads but will upgrade to aluminum when budget allows. Also is cammed and has a Th350 with stock stall. Thanks

You might want to go through the distributor timing drill to be sure it's set to number 1. Two common problems is getting the distributor on number 6 (180 out) or off a tooth on number 1 which is 28 degrees (rounded) out.


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Old 04-03-2017, 03:00 PM
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The rings are properly fitted for the stock piston. Timing has been set on #1. Torqued the rods to spec. Will check the wiring and grounds. All the wiring is completely stock and has a good battery. Another thing I thought about was when I had the engine on the stand it was very hard to turn. Another friend rebuilding his 350 also said his was hard to turn so I didn't think twice about it. What plugs are the best for a stockish 350? Currently has r45ts Acdelco plugs. Grandpa put them in just before I got the truck in october. The engine hasn't even been fired since rebuild, and the starter is the last thing I need to fix. I'm in Upstate SC so it's not too cold here. I appreciate all the replies as this was my first post here.
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Old 04-03-2017, 06:13 PM
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But bad wiring is common to older cars and many need new cables and ends on a regular bases. Seems like the further north you go the more often they need to be changed.

Really, are you for real? Wiring does not wear out and only becomes contaminated at terminal ends or if the insulation has become compromised. Many older vehicles, 30's, 40's and some into the 50's had cloth insulated wire which over time could become "worn out", but I doubt that is your case.

I strongly suggest the wiring be looked at. If its original to the truck its a good chance the battery cables need to be replaced. If its a 15 or 20 year old truck and the battery cables are stock its best to get new ones and see if that helps.

Not necessarily so unless someone earlier had used wire of the wrong gauge which can cause the wire to become too hot, depending on the circuit, which can cause the wire to burn and crack and in many cases start a fire. Hooking up a high wattage stereo amplifier with too small gauge wire is a prime example.
Do check all cables for tight connectors and compromised insulation and make all grounds shiny, bright and tight.
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Old 04-03-2017, 06:27 PM
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The truck is a '72 c10 with all original wiring so all wiring is 45 years old. Will try to get new wiring this weekend for the positive and ground. Ordering a high torque starter and remote solenoid tomorrow because even if it's not needed now, it's good insurance for later.
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Old 04-03-2017, 06:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 72c10EP View Post
The truck is a '72 c10 with all original wiring so all wiring is 45 years old. Will try to get new wiring this weekend for the positive and ground. Ordering a high torque starter and remote solenoid tomorrow because even if it's not needed now, it's good insurance for later.
I agree with new battery cables so long as they are properly sized. The remote solenoid is a band aid, IMHO, and totally unnecessary and a waste of time and money. At one time I had a 62 1/2 Chevy with a fair warm 400 sbc and it had the original starter and never gave me a problem. The weakest link on any GM starter is the solenoid and unless you're running a very high horsepower engine the stock starer will be plenty adequate. Just my opinion, it's your truck and your money so spend it as you wish.
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Old 04-03-2017, 07:10 PM
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What about the starter disengaging after a few secs of turning? What does that mean?
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Old 04-03-2017, 07:23 PM
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Unless i missed it, you never said what your timing was. It could be something as simple as that in that you've got too much base time. For a few bucks, you could rig up your own remote start but won't go as far to say not to rig one one up. Is it unnecessary, yeah probably 9.5 times out of 10 unless you're running a solid mechanical cam in your set up which changes things for one person.
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Old 04-03-2017, 07:30 PM
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Really appreciate the advise hcompton. The engine was set at 14-15 degrees initial before and ran good but when we pulled the distributor out before pulling the engine, we didn't mark it so we reset it to 0 degrees tdc on cylinder #1.
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Old 04-03-2017, 07:47 PM
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The converter was tight against the flywheel, just as it was the previous time I had the engine out of the truck (didn't even take heads off before). Converter shouldn't be hanging up. Dust cover is off though so I will give it a look. The solenoid did seem to get warm very quickly without much cranking..... it's also not even had exhaust heat on it yet. Like I said before the engine hasn't fired since some time in February and I really need it back on the road.
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Old 04-03-2017, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 72c10EP View Post
What about the starter disengaging after a few secs of turning? What does that mean?
That generally indicates a faulty solenoid. As I stated earlier the solenoid is the weakest link in any GM vehicle. If you take the solenoid a apart you will find it has burned contacts and thus is intermittent. The solenoid can be cleaned, temporary fix, or replaced which is the way I would go. If you pull the starter down take it apart and check the commutator for wear, can be cleaned with fine grade emory cloth, and check to make sure the brushes are in good condition. If in doubt replace the brushes, there are 4 and not very expensive. Other than what I've described the only other thing prone to wear is the bendix which is what engages the starter to the flywheel and it can also be replaced.
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Old 04-03-2017, 07:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 72c10EP View Post
The converter was tight against the flywheel, just as it was the previous time I had the engine out of the truck (didn't even take heads off before). Converter shouldn't be hanging up. Dust cover is off though so I will give it a look. The solenoid did seem to get warm very quickly without much cranking..... it's also not even had exhaust heat on it yet. Like I said before the engine hasn't fired since some time in February and I really need it back on the road.
From what you describe I'd say you have a bad solenoid or one that is getting that way and it won't get better.
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