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Old 09-16-2015, 09:02 PM
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sticking brakes

first car show and on the way home the front breaks were dragging. Then they started to get hot so I stopped and cracked the lines to relieve the pressure. I got home but cant figure out why and it seems like once they freed up they are fine all day until the next day. New spindles, lines, calipers, bearings, 11" booster and proportioning valve for disk front drums rear. I think it is in the valve so I will try a adjustable valve. Checked the brake rod to see if it was coming all the way back and it was. This has happened on ever drive but once they are free they are fine all day. I even thought the lines were heating up, expanding the fluid, so I put a shield to protect them from heat but that didn't help. I want to take a trip across state but until I solve this I am stuck. Can anyone tell me where to start?? and
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Old 09-17-2015, 07:42 AM
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I had the same problem on my deuce roadster. A GENIUS friend of mine loosened the two bolts that join the master cylinder to the brake booster and inserted a shim over each bolt between those two components ( cut a thick washer in half ) and tightened it all back together. Now the piston retracts completely and allows the fluid to circulate...no more pressure. My booster and master cylinder is under the floor so it is some easier to get to those two bolts than your firewall placement.
The piston was likely just barely impeding the flow of fluid. Moving it did the trick. Be sure to check your brake pads and your rotors...
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Old 09-17-2015, 07:44 AM
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brakes

u mentioned the brk rod is coming all the way back, but is there any free play. u need just a touch of free play to make sure the m/c is not being held in a partial brake that will not allow fluid to return to m/c. ea time u brake u build pressure and no return..
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Old 09-17-2015, 06:09 PM
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I did adjust but thanks for that, never thought to give a little free play.
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Old 09-17-2015, 06:15 PM
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Did he put the shims to change the angle due to binding? After reading your reply I did remember that I was concerned about the angle of the brake rod angle to the booster. Or was it to give the rod more clearance?
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Old 09-17-2015, 06:36 PM
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More rod clearance. I performed about every trick I knew of...stronger return spring on pedal, clevis adjustment, etc. The sweet spot, as they say, is very small. Dragging issue was causing my engine to work harder, increasing engine temp, wearing the brake pads and heating the rotors. Glad he knew about this....I was at my wits end.
Good luck! Hope I helped!
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Old 09-18-2015, 06:55 PM
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It was like a bell sounded after reading what you said. Before I read your response I cut a shim the same shape as the master cylinder and put it between it and the booster. It was only the thickness of two credit cards together and was made out of some scrap galvanized steel. I guess I could have machined a little off the rod but wanted to be sure that was the problem. Worked like a charm. It roles down the road and makes me smile. After fighting with it I thought I should have asked first. Thanks again
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Old 09-19-2015, 08:01 AM
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there ya go.. good job.

sometimes slop is a good thing.. when i first finished my bucket i took to a ride.. had to have it towed home, brakes locked up..
no slop in push rod.. that was a $75 fix.
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Old 09-20-2015, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtyfingers View Post
It was like a bell sounded after reading what you said. Before I read your response I cut a shim the same shape as the master cylinder and put it between it and the booster. It was only the thickness of two credit cards together and was made out of some scrap galvanized steel. I guess I could have machined a little off the rod but wanted to be sure that was the problem. Worked like a charm. It roles down the road and makes me smile. After fighting with it I thought I should have asked first. Thanks again
COOL! These issues are exactly what this forum is all about. So glad it worked for you....play it forward when you can!
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