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Old 11-05-2018, 08:20 PM
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Stock transmission mount angle and engine angle

Hello,

I think I'm now finally ready to put my 5.9L magnum and 46re transmission into my Wrangler. The 46re transmission mount fits the stock Jeep skid plate/trany mounting location and I'll be reusing it.

My question is regarding the 7° factory slope I have on the mounting area on the plate. I'm planning on setting the engine at this angle also. I understand that street driven cars are more in the 3-5 degree range, but seems this doesn't necessarily apply here, since the factory angle on the trany mount is 7.

Setting the engine at this angle will allow me to get my rear axle in a good location to hopefully not have vibration. I have adjustable control arms and I'm at 7° now on the pinion.

I'm looking for some thoughts on this to make sure I'm not missing something and specially on the 7° engine angle.

Thanks.

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Old 11-05-2018, 08:47 PM
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Fuel injection or carbed?
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Old 11-05-2018, 08:56 PM
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Fuel injection or carbed?
Factory fuel injection. Sorry, should've clarified that.
Thanks.
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Old 11-05-2018, 09:01 PM
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Angle doesn’t matter then.
If it were carbed it would need to be with the carb level.
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Old 11-05-2018, 09:40 PM
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Drive shaft U- joint angles first, with injection engine angle doesn't have an affect, just be sure the oil pump inlet stays wet and the top end returns are at the deep end.

If it had a carb probably an angle spacer would be required to get back to level on the float bowels.

Bogie
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Old 11-05-2018, 09:54 PM
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I feel pretty confident about the U joint angles for now. I can adjust the pinion with the adjustable control arms (it's a 4 link, coil suspension) and change drivetrain angle with spacers later if necessary. It was the 7° drivetrain angle that was my main concern.

Granted, it's just the bare frame right now without body weight, but I think I have enough adjustability to compensate later as needed.

Thanks.

Last edited by Infinite Monkeys; 11-05-2018 at 10:03 PM.
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Old 11-06-2018, 07:16 AM
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Run a dual CV slip yoke eliminatior and clock the transfer case. The transmission angle won't matter tuck it up for clearance.
Make the cross member with a intrigrated skid plate.
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Old 11-06-2018, 08:03 AM
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Quote:
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Run a dual CV slip yoke eliminatior and clock the transfer case. The transmission angle won't matter tuck it up for clearance.
Make the cross member with a intrigrated skid plate.
I've been struggling with the option of SYE since the beginning of this project.

I'm using the stock transfer case which bolts directly to the 46re, so my stock shafts will both bolt up and be placed in the stock location with stock angles, at least that's how I see it, so I don't see where the SYE will be of benefit to me. It is entirely possible I'm missing something here, so I'm leaving this option open for now and will wait and see how it all comes together. I'm using only a 2.5" lift.

I considered clocking the T-case and might need to do that still just for clearance for the front shaft. The gain there is only about 1/2", so it didn't seem like it was worth it.

I am using the stock crossmember which includes an integrated skid plate.

Thanks.
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Old 11-06-2018, 09:33 AM
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I wanted to come back and correct what I had said. My trany cross member/ skid plate came in the mail yesterday, so up till now I was only able to guess as to how it would go together. Now with the cross member in place, I see that the new trany is several inches longer from the mounting area to where the transfer case sits, compared to the old trany. This extra length will not allow me to use the stock mounting holes in the cross member. Solution I've come up with is to either move the trany, rubber mount back, or make a new mounting area on the cross member so I can shift everything forward. Both options should be fairly simple.
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Old 11-06-2018, 10:47 AM
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Why not install the motor/transmission so it clears the front axle/radiator then install the crossmember jack it into place and drill new holes in the frame rail?
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Old 11-06-2018, 12:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cerial View Post
Why not install the motor/transmission so it clears the front axle/radiator then install the crossmember jack it into place and drill new holes in the frame rail?
That is an excellent idea! I will definitely look into it.

My initial thought of the only reason this may not work is that the frame rails and the cross member are angled so the cross member will fit on the rails in a very limited area. However, that spot is within a few inches of the current location, so it might work.

Thank you.
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