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Old 02-13-2009, 04:25 PM
 
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Stroker 383 Build Help

Hey everyone, how's everyone doing today?...I'm nice and warm down here in Florida, lol.

Anyhow, I have been searching the past couple of weeks through piles of forums reading. I have finally decided to join a couple and ask some questions. I need some help on assembling a kit for a 383 stroker. I want a lot of power...and for it to sound good...but I will only take it to the strip maybe once or twice a year...so something that runs on regular fuel too, lol. Once I get all the parts, my dad is going to help me assemble it (he is an old time mechanic...not too big on electronic stuff).

Enough of the rambling....here is what I am thinking of thus far:


Heads
Brodix - * 200cc intake ports
* 64cc combustion chambers
* Phosphorous bronze valve guides
* Valve seats for use with unleaded gas
* End-milled and drilled for accessories
* 2.02 in./1.60 in. stainless steel valves
* Valve springs
* Valve stem seals
* 5/16 in. guideplates
* Rocker arm studs
* Retainers
* Locks
(They are a lot...but a guy on the forums talked me into them...much better than porting the old)...he is also the one who showed me the rotating assemblly below.

Intake
Edelbrock Performer RPM (1500-6500). I wanted a weiand manifold but the darn hood is limiting me on what I can have and I am not ready to replace the hood.

Rotating Assembly
-Scat 4340 3.75" Forged Crankshaft

-Scat 4340 Premium 5.7" I-beam Connecting Rods w/ 7/16" capscrew

-KB FT Pistons, 11:1 w. 64cc head

Carb
Quadrajet Re-tuned and drilled from old stock motor

Cam
262-400; [email protected] lift 230; [email protected] lift 230; intake-lift .480; exhaust-lift .480; lobe sep angle 109


I'm thinking of taking a 2 bolt block and adding splayed caps...I've had some say not to while other told me the mains will 'walk off' if I don't.

Do you think I'm on the right track here so far?...any suggestions much appreciated!

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Old 02-13-2009, 04:52 PM
 
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sounds pretty good to me, not sure if the carb will give enough flow though. im building a 383 right now also, i just got my 2 bolt block converted to a four bolt, used eagle spayed caps. you need to get it line bored after doing this but I think it is worth it. you've got a strong rotating assembly, why not make the bottom end strong too. cheers
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Old 02-13-2009, 05:11 PM
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Hey,sounds nice!I think your Q-jet would be alright as long as it's professionally rebuilt.It wouldn't be my 1st choice,but I do like them.Also,I personally wouldn't worry about the splayed caps unless you are going to throwing power adders at it later.If so, I would go ahead and do it now.
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Old 02-13-2009, 06:29 PM
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The cam is too short for 11:1 and pump fuel. It'll detonate. In today's climate, I would pull the static compression ratio back to around 10:1. You might get by with 11:1 if you use more cam and a very tight squish, but the first time you get a bad load of fuel, you're gonna be in trouble.
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Old 02-13-2009, 07:43 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1
The cam is too short for 11:1 and pump fuel. It'll detonate. In today's climate, I would pull the static compression ratio back to around 10:1. You might get by with 11:1 if you use more cam and a very tight squish, but the first time you get a bad load of fuel, you're gonna be in trouble.
what spec cam would you recommed for a high compression application such as this? im also building a 383 with 11-1 compression, ill be running 94 octane in it however.

Also i have heard about fattening the jets on the q-jet carbs, did you get this done?
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Old 02-13-2009, 10:35 PM
 
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Okay...if I get this right, the srp forged flat top pistons have a piston top volume of -5cc. I was calculating this as 0 which would give a cr of around 11:1. However, since it is -5cc, I am calculating it to be more like 10.25:1. DOes this sound right?

Also red, I read a huge tech article on the qjet and how it is a great carb. In addition, my vette hood really limits me on intake selection so thats why I am keeping the qjet. I have not tuned it yet...I have not bought anything yet but I am eager to, lol.
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Old 02-13-2009, 11:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shakeyraystingray
Okay...if I get this right, the srp forged flat top pistons have a piston top volume of -5cc. I was calculating this as 0 which would give a cr of around 11:1. However, since it is -5cc, I am calculating it to be more like 10.25:1. DOes this sound right?

Also red, I read a huge tech article on the qjet and how it is a great carb. In addition, my vette hood really limits me on intake selection so thats why I am keeping the qjet. I have not tuned it yet...I have not bought anything yet but I am eager to, lol.
Cr depends on your Deck height & Head gasket.
With .041" gasket & .025" Deck height + 5cc 2Vr Piston I get 10.47Cr & .066" Quench.
With .028" gasket & .015" Deck height + 7cc 4Vr Piston I get 10.55Cr & .043" Quench is much better.
Same as above with 12cc D-Dish piston = 10.22Cr & .043" Quench.
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Old 02-14-2009, 12:23 AM
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With 5cc's in the piston eyebrows, 0.015" piston deck height and 0.025" gasket. (Victor Reinz 5746)
784 in the cylinder
64 in the chamber
5 in the piston
3.14 in the deck
5.41 in the gasket
861.55 total drawn in
77.55 total compressed
Divide and find 11.1:1 static compression ratio.
It doesn't matter much if you use zero deck and a 0.040" gasket or 0.015" deck and a 0.025" gasket, it's still 0.040" clearance piston to head. It will vary a little because of the diameter of the gasket, but it's close enough for the example we're using here. You'll need a squish of 0.035" to 0.045" to even THINK about running 11.1:1 on pump gas.

Here are examples of cams that might work.....
http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/Ca...?csid=141&sb=0
(8.306:1 dynamic compression ratio)
http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/Ca...x?csid=89&sb=0
(8.744:1 dynamic compression ratio)
http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/Ca...?csid=139&sb=0
(8.814:1 dynamic compression ratio)
http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/Ca...?csid=140&sb=0
(8.744:1 dynamic compression ratio)

The first one would work the best in my opinion, from a cylinder pressure point of view. The last three might be iffy without some sort of water injection or some other anti-detonation aid. Of course it goes without saying that all burrs and sharp edges and corners would have to be polished out of the cylinder/chamber and the ignition timing would have to be optimized. I wouldn't plan on any EGR or PCV system either, you don't want to adulterate the incoming charge and make it easier to detonate.

Last edited by techinspector1; 02-14-2009 at 12:51 AM.
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Old 02-14-2009, 08:16 AM
 
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Hmmm....so I need to probably go with the cam like techspech said which may not be a good idea (and have everything very iffy) or I could go with dished pistons of 12cc(which would lower it to around 10.1 or 10.4 to 1 with the 64 cc combustion chambers, or I could go with 70cc combustion chamber heads with flat top 5cc pistons. Decisions decisions, lol. What would be the pros and cons. I'm guessing I lose a little horsepower or torque going with the dished?



Hey Firebird, I have a 1977 stock corvette,4 speed on the floor. I have ran this baby 8 years. It was in pretty good shape until the water just started going right through it, lol.

Hey Red, how much was it to machine the splayed caps and have it line honed? Everyone is telling me I should go with the SHP dart block....but thats looking like a lot over my price range.

Last edited by shakeyraystingray; 02-14-2009 at 08:46 AM.
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Old 02-14-2009, 09:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1
The cam is too short for 11:1 and pump fuel. It'll detonate. In today's climate, I would pull the static compression ratio back to around 10:1. You might get by with 11:1 if you use more cam and a very tight squish, but the first time you get a bad load of fuel, you're gonna be in trouble.
I agree
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Old 02-14-2009, 02:59 PM
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64cc heads with 12cc pistons = 10.27:1
70cc heads with 5cc pistons = 10.38:1
70cc heads with 12cc pistons = 9.66:1

Now, before you turn up your nose at 9.66, take a look at the torque generated with this combination.

Compcams 12-246-3, XE-274H, 104/116/110, cam timing events @ 0.050" tappet lift 11-39-54-2, 274/286, 230/236, 0.490"/0.490" installed advanced 2 degrees and using 1.5 rockers. HYDRAULIC-Very strong mid-range torque & throttle response, 2200+ stall.
http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/Ca...x?csid=87&sb=0

RPM intake with 750 vacuum secondaries carb, 1 3/4" long-tube, equal-length headers, 9.66:1 static compression ratio, 0.040" squish. Brodix IK200 heads with the following flow figures were used in this Dynosim example.
0.200 123/100
0.300 181/145
0.400 230/164
0.500 253/171
0.600 261/176

RPM HP TQ
2000 150 395
2500 190 400
3000 243 426
3500 305 458
4000 362 475
4500 407 475
5000 443 465
5500 454 433
6000 440 385

With optimized ignition timing, this combination would likely run knock-free on 87 octane swill. If I were putting this together, I'd use an HEI from Performance Distributors. They'll custom-tailor the advance curve before they ship it to you based on the details you give them about your combination.
http://www.performancedistributors.com/gmssdui.htm

Last edited by techinspector1; 02-14-2009 at 03:44 PM.
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Old 02-14-2009, 06:32 PM
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I'm not speaking from experience,but I have done alot of reading and research on the FT vs Dished .I think you would be fine with the dished because they are not a full dish like the old smog pistons we are use to.You will still get good quench with these .They are designed to work WITH the combustion chamber , not just a way to lower compression. IMO. Also,are you planning on using a factory type breather or Moroso type.Just curious.
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Old 02-15-2009, 07:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shakeyraystingray
Hey everyone, how's everyone doing today?...I'm nice and warm down here in Florida, lol.

Anyhow, I have been searching the past couple of weeks through piles of forums reading. I have finally decided to join a couple and ask some questions. I need some help on assembling a kit for a 383 stroker. I want a lot of power...and for it to sound good...but I will only take it to the strip maybe once or twice a year...so something that runs on regular fuel too, lol. Once I get all the parts, my dad is going to help me assemble it (he is an old time mechanic...not too big on electronic stuff).

Enough of the rambling....here is what I am thinking of thus far:


Heads
Brodix - * 200cc intake ports
* 64cc combustion chambers
* Phosphorous bronze valve guides
* Valve seats for use with unleaded gas
* End-milled and drilled for accessories
* 2.02 in./1.60 in. stainless steel valves
* Valve springs
* Valve stem seals
* 5/16 in. guideplates
* Rocker arm studs
* Retainers
* Locks
(They are a lot...but a guy on the forums talked me into them...much better than porting the old)...he is also the one who showed me the rotating assemblly below.

Intake
Edelbrock Performer RPM (1500-6500). I wanted a weiand manifold but the darn hood is limiting me on what I can have and I am not ready to replace the hood.

Rotating Assembly
-Scat 4340 3.75" Forged Crankshaft

-Scat 4340 Premium 5.7" I-beam Connecting Rods w/ 7/16" capscrew

-KB FT Pistons, 11:1 w. 64cc head

Carb
Quadrajet Re-tuned and drilled from old stock motor

Cam
262-400; [email protected] lift 230; [email protected] lift 230; intake-lift .480; exhaust-lift .480; lobe sep angle 109


I'm thinking of taking a 2 bolt block and adding splayed caps...I've had some say not to while other told me the mains will 'walk off' if I don't.

Do you think I'm on the right track here so far?...any suggestions much appreciated!
f-brid 88 is very knowledgeable, i would listen to everything he says. you need to lower the compression.
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Old 02-15-2009, 10:45 AM
 
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I'm definitely listening. I really appreciate everything, especially from tech and fbird. Here is my new lineup:

Heads
Summit Aluminum - * 200cc intake ports
* 64cc combustion chambers
* Phosphorous bronze valve guides
* Valve seats for use with unleaded gas
* End-milled and drilled for accessories
* 2.02 in./1.60 in. stainless steel valves
* Valve springs
* Valve stem seals
* 5/16 in. guideplates
* Rocker arm studs
* Retainers
* Locks
I found these heads. They are cheaper and identical to the brodix heads.

Intake
Either weiand 8501 or the performer rpm. If I use the performer, I will have to port it to match the ik200's. This will save me $400 on buying a new carburetor.

Rotating Assembly
-Scat 4340 forged crank

-Scat 4340 Premium 5.7" I-beam Connecting Rods w/ 7/16" capscrew

-Forged 12cc dished, 10.2:1 w. 64cc head (like tech said)

Carb
QJET or holley 750



Cam
Either a solid or hydraulic. I am not sure at this point.

Last edited by shakeyraystingray; 02-15-2009 at 12:37 PM.
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