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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 11-24-2006, 07:54 PM
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HOK MC-OO is a cheaper solution for real chrome but it's no easy shoot.
It HAS to be shot over a FULLY cured clear coat which HAS to be PERFECT.Otherwise,ANY imperfection will blow up big time. Your essentaly creating a mirror. Great way to check your fingerprints if you want. Wipe down is critical as well. KC-20 is recommended and for GOOD reason.
I've experimented with the MC-OO quite a bit and used most every type precleaner. Even SPI's waterbase and most all have left wipe marks which were virtually invisable till you spray the first coat. UGGGGHHH...
It is a great GRAPHICS tool and for SMALL areas is great. I would not even attempt doing ANYTHING large such as glass bumpers or large panels.
HOK states in the tech manual that it is for LIMITED use and graphics type work only. It has serious delam issues as your shooting it over a highly polished surface so do NOT expect it to last.
Clearing it is a whole 'nother story. "If" you get the light dust coats sprayed right,you still have 1 big ***** hill to get over with the clear. The "key" is to use a fast flashing clear with multiple light coats. Even using HOK UC-35,You hammer it on and it will turn to your standard aluminum look finish.
I've even seen the HOK training DVD on it and unless you have GREAT atomization,light dust coats and a good clear technique. Don't waste your money. Painting any of these "chrome" paints is an art and requires some "chops" to pull off.
Now that I've scared everyone to death,
If you have the time to try it and $45.00 for 8 oz. Give it a shot.
One "secret" to spraying the MC is to go VERY light with each coat,you want to think black chrome,A little goes a LONG way. A good atomizing gun is a MUST and crank the fluid WAY down,give it plenty of flash time between coats and even 24 hr before the clear is not too long a wait.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2006, 05:06 PM
 
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I added a couple of finished pics of the cap:
http://www.71corvette.com/kk/

It did loose a little shine after clearing. I definately need more practice.
I think after some practice it will be a much better result. Right now it looks like an older cheap chrome.

Larry
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Old 11-26-2006, 05:25 PM
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A little better is ALL you'll get Larry.
Even the best at this paint can't replicate "real" chrome. It will always be "almost,but not quite".
I think it looks the best with just a "hint" of black still visable. It's at it's best reflection right before getting full coverage. Any further coats just adds to the aluminum look,so next time don't go all the way with it and see how you like that.

Mike.
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Old 11-27-2006, 12:20 PM
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What about durability of this product. Do you think it would hold up on a grille getting regular hits from bugs, etc? Seems to be some concern about the bond with it being appied over a polished surface.
Bob
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Old 11-28-2006, 07:39 AM
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The chrome paint is basically a lacquer type product if I'm not mistaken, and should bite into that polished surface. The clearcoat to MC-00 bond would be my concern unless and intercoat clear could be used first. Larry, what clear does HOK recomend over the MC-00?
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Old 11-28-2006, 08:09 AM
 
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Hey Bob,

You can't use the SG100 over it. You're supposed to use UC35 or UFC35.
The sheet does say that there is a compromise with durability because of the application over a polished surface. I guess time will tell with the product. I wish I had bought that accelerated weathering tester the local college sold aff a few years back.

Thanks for the help Mike. I'll try that next go around.

Larry
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Old 11-28-2006, 08:43 AM
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Well, When the tech sheet for the product states to NOT oversell the client on it. THAT should tell you something.
There are some good threads on Craigs site at Kustom Kulture's web board about the MC-OO but it really is not a reliable product IMO and some "read between the lines" will get you the truth. This stuff has only been out for say 6 months and long term has yet to really be seen. I know Craig was using some kind of 1K clear from a spray can and was having better luck with the initial clear over the chrome but he would not give it up as to what he was using untill he did some further testing.The solvent in the clear was killing the finish and thats why you want something quick flash and VERY light coats to get a barrier on and after it has cured enough to sand,put the final lustre coat(s) on. Something like the SG will REALLY screw it up due to it's solvent content and flash time. I've used a spot clear with light coats and had deicent luck with that. Even with the HOK 35,they were "playing" with the reducer and cat to get a quicker cure.
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Old 11-28-2006, 09:34 AM
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re: Is there a "chrome" paint that -

Chip Foose did a chrome paint on one of his pojects, and it came out looking like real chrome. It was done on the top of the car. If he can do it why cant others.
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Old 11-28-2006, 12:27 PM
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrwood
Chip Foose did a chrome paint on one of his pojects, and it came out looking like real chrome. It was done on the top of the car. If he can do it why cant others.
I've seen cars done in chrome too. At the Portland auto show last year there was a completely chromed Jag. Wow! Curvy chrome never looked so good.

If I had Chip Foose's kinds of resources and backing I'd chrome "MY" body parts.

I sure would like to learn paint chrome. I wish it wasn't so hard to get a real chrome look. But then, if it was easy every one would do it, and the idea would loose it's luster.
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Old 11-28-2006, 04:23 PM
 
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I don't care who you are, you will have to do a little practice. Foose has the luxury of turning the cameras on and off, pretending things only take a week, getting chroming done next day, and getting repro parts next door. Plus the fact that everything looks better in pictures. Oh, and possibly they are using a different system. Cosmichrome (not Kosmic Khrome) looks like the real deal in pics to me but it takes special equipment and chemicals to make it happen.

Larry
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