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Old 01-15-2020, 02:34 PM
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Thread locker on t-stat housing bolts?

Should I use loctite thread lock on the mounting bolts for aluminum t-stat housing to aluminum intake?
Was going to use studs and locknuts, but the housing has deep countersunk mounting holes, and not sure if washers on top of that surface is good idea?
See picture.....
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Old 01-15-2020, 04:27 PM
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I would not. Can the original socket head screw be acquired? if not, some washers will be fine. A new housing is around $20. Might I suggest that route.
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Old 01-15-2020, 04:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnsongrass1 View Post
I would not. Can the original socket head screw be acquired? if not, some washers will be fine. A new housing is around $20. Might I suggest that route.
$20? Not this housing! Lol....I have the Socket head screws, but being aluminum on aluminum, I know things will move and leak.....which is why I thought of threadlock loctite?
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Old 01-15-2020, 04:44 PM
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I have never used thread locker on those bolts. Thread locker may need to be used depending on the condition of the threads.

The countersink in the intake manifold is to fit the thermostat and prevent coolant leaks.
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Old 01-15-2020, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by MouseFink View Post
I have never used thread locker on those bolts. Thread locker may need to be used depending on the condition of the threads.

The countersink in the intake manifold is to fit the thermostat and prevent coolant leaks.
No, the countersink I mentioned is where the t stat housing bolts go, so if I were to use studs and locknuts, they would be above the countersunk holes with washers.....
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Old 01-15-2020, 04:55 PM
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Is it not advisable to use loctite thread lock on bolts in aluminum?
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Old 01-17-2020, 08:54 AM
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I once had a build that the distributor arp stud that I used was loctited with blue loctite to keep it tight and it gave me no trouble and kept tight and never any issue and when it came time to remove the stud it was no trouble getting it out. Just don't use red or you will have trouble. Now please take this as a warning as it worked for me and had no issues. I did not install it that way but my Dad did but the stud was installed only finger tight and was left to cure overnight then the distributor was put back in and then tightened down.

I would either get a new thermostat housing unless that one is a really expensive piece but if you have to keep it use some grade 8 washers and use some anti seize on your bolts going into the intake or you can use the blue loctite to keep things tight but I honestly would not ever use it again like it was used as any fastener I put into my intake I always use anti seize on my thermostat housing studs.

I quit using bolts as I like using studs as much as possible to not risk taking the threads out. Also you will maybe check after a few heat cycles and retorque your housing bolts. I think the grade 8 washers would be strong enough and if you use regular grade 8 bolts with the wider head if they can fit it will clamp down on the washers and the housing and should be more then enough to keep it torqued good enough to not leak.

I would bite the bullet and get a new housing if it was me. I use a GM one that was only like 6 bucks and no fancy chrome and I got a set of studs and use regular nuts with lock washers and I check it a few times and retorque and after a few cycles I recheck the torque and all is good and its always been leak free. I don't use paper gaskets but use the plastic silicone felpro gasket that you can reuse and its the best thermostat housing gasket I have ever used. After seeing your picture I did not know that was part of the intake I thought you had the housing sitting on top and its one of those two piece swivel ones you can rotate to any direction. I don't know exactly would help on that one. What does the top of the housing look like siting on top of the intake that your using?
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Old 01-18-2020, 05:48 AM
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Stainless countersunk bolts. If you're worried about leaking, Permatex 2 around the threads.


I always use anti seize into aluminum now.
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Old 01-18-2020, 07:24 AM
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If you have a Fastenal near you they will have what you need bolt wise if you don't have them. No loctite needed there, maybe a bit of anti seize as already mentioned....
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Old 01-18-2020, 11:38 AM
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I used right stuff ptfe thread sealant and have had zero leaks


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Old 01-18-2020, 12:05 PM
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Anti-Seize,, dissimilar metals plus coolant....
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Old 01-18-2020, 06:07 PM
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Anti seize ...
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Old 01-19-2020, 08:02 AM
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Not that this has to do with locktight, but is there a special water neck that fits into the countersunk holes?


I used stainless bolts to aluminum and just used aluminum anti seize on the threads. It doesn't come loose by itself. No need for locktight.
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Old 01-20-2020, 06:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
Stainless countersunk bolts. If you're worried about leaking, Permatex 2 around the threads.


I always use anti seize into aluminum now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by predator carb guru View Post
If you have a Fastenal near you they will have what you need bolt wise if you don't have them. No loctite needed there, maybe a bit of anti seize as already mentioned....
ACE hardware also has a wide selection of bolts.
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Old 01-20-2020, 05:06 PM
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Make sure to shoot some air or run a few Q tips down the holes removing the coolant and junk. You will be surprised the amount of gunk that you will find especially on steel blocks. Water does not compress so you want to have clean holes to work with.

Use the felpro gasket that has the sticky side. Never had a issue with these and the price difference is worth not having the thing wander on you during install.

There have been times when I wished other gaskets had a sticky side.
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