Tips on double flaring lines - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans Advertise
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Suspension - Brakes - Steering
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 11-03-2018, 02:28 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 2,080
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 219
Thanked 428 Times in 349 Posts
Tips on double flaring lines

Previous owner replaced the lines on my 87 with some of that auto parts store green line. I want to throw in some new wheel cylinders and pads in before winter as preventive maintenance. The thing was a wood/plow truck and mud sat/froze/sat on a spot on the axle over the line which caused the new line to rust enough where I believe they will break when I replace that wheel cylinder.

Doing this thing in steps little weekend projects at a time. I replaced the front calipers/pads and hoses a few months ago and want to replace the rear hose hard lines, cylinders and pads next weekend. If I have time I will do some new front rotors and rebuild the hubs before the snow flies.
Next summer I would like to eliminate the factory portioning valve for a adjustable one, maybe add a front line lock, and replace the rest of the lines with nicopp.



For now I just want to do the rear hose and hard lines reusing the fittings.
I have 25' of 3/16 line and a double flare tool from Harbor freight among my old stuff cutters, files, and such. It seems easy enough. But is one of those things I have never done.

Any tips like oil or maybe warming up the nicopp line with a torch slightly. Turning the tool in 1/2 turns or any kind of tricks or tips on what not to do.

Have 25' for what is like a 6' section so If I mess up it is not terrible. But if I had some advice that would lessen the learning curve or have me doing something wrong that seems right.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 11-03-2018, 05:56 PM
302 Z28's Avatar  
Join Date: May 2003
Location: North Texas
Posts: 10,925
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 125 Times in 104 Posts
Best of luck with that HF double flare tool. I absolutely hate the stuff that auto parts stores carry for brake lines. The green stuff they are coated with resists anything I have thrown against it to remove it short of sanding it off.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 11-03-2018, 06:45 PM
3repete's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 197
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 22
Thanked 13 Times in 13 Posts
Practice a couple of flares with that tool. You can get detailed instructions on how it's done from many folks. Check you tube, there are a few very good tutorials on there.
You need a good tubing cutter, and a good file too. Put some grease on the mandrel and the cone when shaping your flares.
You might have trouble with an HF flaring kit. Their precision stuff isn't usually very good. If your flares come out badly you can get a replacement mandrel that will possibly solve your problem. But if the kit works, great.

As far as the green coated steel line, I have used it. The good is it's cheap and holds shape once formed. The bad is it's stiff as heck. Especially in larger diameters.
I'd suggest getting some of the copper nickel stuff. It's much easier to work.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to 3repete For This Useful Post:
cerial (11-04-2018)
 
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 11-03-2018, 07:24 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: At Speed
Age: 56
Posts: 3,000
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 337
Thanked 434 Times in 383 Posts
when you cut the line, use a file and a drill bit to lightly debur the inside and outside of the tubing. I have a cheap double flare tool and have used it alot.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to lmsport For This Useful Post:
cerial (11-04-2018), slick56 (11-08-2018)
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 11-03-2018, 10:20 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 2,080
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 219
Thanked 428 Times in 349 Posts
Guys I am replacing the green line with nicopp line.

Will use my small tube cutter and the file. The grease and drill bit is something new. But makes sense to debur it nice and clean easily.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 11-03-2018, 10:57 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Laurel, De.
Posts: 437
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 219
Thanked 169 Times in 127 Posts
The biggest thing is the tools. Some of the cheap flaring tools slip and you get walleyed or incomplete flares. never worked with the NiCopp but have heard it's easier to deal with. A couple of metal coat hangers laying around to make templates for complex bend sections. Hand held tubing benders aren't always capable of doing as tight a radius bend as stock stuff has so I just try to do them where they fit in the factory clips. Tucks are pretty straightforward without a ton of bends.

#1 tip put the fittings on before you flare both ends. Lol
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to Hipster_G For This Useful Post:
cerial (11-04-2018)
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2018, 05:58 AM
55 Tony's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Cocke County, TN
Posts: 1,153
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 135
Thanked 200 Times in 179 Posts
Double flaring Ni-Copp is as easy as it comes. If you want to practice, do a couple on the end of the line while it's on the roll yet, cutting each one off as you go. When you're happy, leave the flare on and cut the line to length. Like was said, put the fittings on before doing the second flare. I've pulled that stunt before.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to 55 Tony For This Useful Post:
cerial (11-04-2018)
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2018, 07:13 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 2,080
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 219
Thanked 428 Times in 349 Posts
Thanks for the confidence. Still waiting on a few frontend parts and will go at the rear axle and maybe the front Friday.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2018, 07:25 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 53
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 3
Thanked 13 Times in 13 Posts
chamfer the outside of the tubing so it starts easily. also good for attaching hoses by just starting the bulge.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2018, 08:01 AM
bb79ranch's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Summerfield, FL
Age: 51
Posts: 255
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 59 Times in 53 Posts
FWIW, I tried to use the traditional double flaring tools when doing my brake and transmission lines and all it returned was frustration and these were decent tools, not HF or Chinese(they were an older set). I ended up buying this from Eastwood and actually enjoy flaring lines now, if you can believe flaring lines is enjoyable. ALWAYS a perfect double flare even with the coated lines. A bit pricey but well worth it to me considering the absence of any frustrations.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to bb79ranch For This Useful Post:
lmsport (11-04-2018), slick56 (11-08-2018)
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2018, 09:30 AM
delawarebill's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: delaware
Posts: 2,373
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 98
Thanked 229 Times in 221 Posts
flare'n

the problem i ran into was my first of the 2 flares u need to put the inner up against the tubing and not go over in height of the cap. i had problems doing double's until i watched a video and found i was doing the first one wrong.. it worked..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Suspension - Brakes - Steering posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Double Vs Single Flaring tool? silentpoet Garage - Tools 7 01-01-2012 05:02 PM
TH-350 Cooling Lines Flaring leejoy Transmission - Rearend 2 01-02-2006 09:53 PM
Flaring Stainless Steel Lines blacklotus Suspension - Brakes - Steering 8 03-20-2005 08:52 AM
Flaring SS Brake Lines for AN Fittings 32vicky Suspension - Brakes - Steering 16 05-13-2003 08:11 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:35 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.