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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 03-19-2015, 09:30 AM
2001Blazer4x4's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devildude24 View Post
Right now I have $800. I get a good paycheck each Saturday for $150-500 depending on how much I work. My budget is just how much patience I have. My parents don't support my builds whatsoever, they bought me the original car, gave me the keys, and said "Welcome to real life." I pay for gas, oil, tires, insurance, everything. I need to get this thing running as soon as possible, yes, but I don't want to put any engine in it. I want either a 350 or 383. I'm fine with waiting, if it will make the car cool. That block is probably trashed, but I do have an extra one, or I can go with a crate engine after saving a month or two this summer. Depends.....
I don't know your parents, but if they bought you the original car they are not so bad! If you are a teenager that works to support your own car habit, then you're most likely a pretty good kid. As a parent of grown up kids myself, I truly bet that once you can show your parents you have saved half of what you need and they know you have a continuing income - they would loan you the rest, or help you get a loan (whatever that amount is). I'm sure they wish you well and really don't want you to have to walk for any longer than it takes for you to learn a lesson about beating your transportation car too hard! Still don't get this WOT timing thing you was trying to do! My advice, don't do that anymore!

If you haven't built an engine before and don't have a very experienced person to help you - definitely go with the crate motor. You will make mistakes on the first engine that you build. My mistake was using old 352 rods when converting a Ford 352 block to a standard bore 390 by boring 0.040 and installing a 390 crank. The 352 rods are just a little bit longer. The engine ran but sounded very strange and ruined a set of forged pistons. I had to pay someone to figure it out.

Cheers!

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 03-23-2015, 02:36 AM
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Thanks a lot! This won't be my first build, but I do have some people helping me (they've been doing it for over 45 years) so I'm pretty confident this motor will be good. I just think I should go with a 355 with aluminum heads or something, I want a good daily driver more than a street machine, I'll save that for after college...
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Old 03-23-2015, 08:44 AM
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Tips for a Teen Hot Rodder?

Devildude24, If you want a good engine that will last then save your money and just make a list of what you need. I can give you some examples of the parts you will need. 1. Aluminum heads: JEGS Performance Products 514032, JEGS Small Block Chevy Cylinder Heads | JEGS Performance Products, Rotating assembly: Scat 1-90350 SB Chevy 383 Pro Comp Street and Strip Rotating Assembly - 9.7:1 Keith Black Dish Pistons - SB Chevy 383 Kits - Rotating Assemblies - New - Engine Components | CNC Motorsports | Car Parts | Truck Parts | Competition Engines Engine Gasket Set: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...make/chevrolet Intake Manifold: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ed...make/chevrolet Carburetor: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/qf...0-vs/overview/ You will also need these Harmonic Balancer and FlexPlate http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...make/chevrolet http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pio-871003/overview/ You take the crank, rods, pistons, balancer, and flexplate to the machine shop to have it balanced.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 04-01-2015, 07:12 PM
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devil dude just know what your getting into. research the costs for a 383 build, the kit for 750 isn't bad but what about the $1200+ in cash that's needed to get the block machined,instant $1950 bucks already. for that you can toss an extra $500 on that and find a already prepped and assembled 383 (long block) and if your lucky that might even include some vortex heads. check out your local machine shops before you go buying parts also I could have saved myself about 3 grand if i did. and id of been driving my car around already.

best and cheapest way is to just rebuild your 350 ,skip the 383 machine work and put the 1200 bucks into your savings until you have enough to build the block you truly want. and if it isn't fast enough with just a cam and some heads drop the 1200 on a turbo set up
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Old 04-01-2015, 09:06 PM
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I realize prices are different around the country, but if you're paying $1,200 to bore/hone and clean up the deck, you need to find another machine shop. JMO.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 04-01-2015, 10:23 PM
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Larry I spend around a g-note at the machine shop, align hone/bore,square and deck,bore,balance and,,,,?Not every time though
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Old 04-02-2015, 02:14 AM
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bore n hone cylinders ,decking block w/ torque plates , blue printing the block , and you can't just toss in the rods the block needs clearanced. line honing, cam bearings, freeze plugs, oil galley plugs changed and then the multiple trips to the hot tan plus a polished crank. there's more to building a reliable 383 than just boring the cylinders out
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 04-02-2015, 03:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devildude24 View Post
I have a 1978 Camaro with a 4-bolt 350 out of a '78 Silverado. Was doing WOT timing when it threw a rod. Now doing a rebuild.


About the 383, I just don't like the absolutely HUGE stroke that they have. The stroke:bore ratio is a little radical for a race engine (I'm building it for street/strip) I want something that can show up the ricers and other muscle cars but can still get me to school the next morning. A good 350, 355, or yes, a 383 would be good. I don't want to get a stall converter, and I don't want to get some radical cam because I have vacuum brakes. Basically just a rad engine that I can take to shows on the weekends and then take to the strip and have a little fun. -Jon

. To start with, we NEVER do WOT (Wide Open Throttle) ignition timing... doing that will cause the engine, any engine, to explode... as you learned... we set base timing at idle... then gently, slowly increase the RPMs at light throttle to about 2500-3500 RPMs while using a timing light to watch how and when the ignition timing is increasing... with conventional distributors, we don't figure on increasing it any further above 3500...

. Need to get realistic plans... unless you or your father's name is John Force, you're not going to beat everybody... and with your budget, even beat most people... but you can make your current engine which is prolly putting down about 125-175 HP as is run much much better on a reasonable budget...

. Since Camaros got kinda heavy by '78, the TORQUE of a 383 or 400 would help get it moving...

. We don't talk "stroke/bore ratio", but bore/stroke ratio... and the 383" like all modern Chevy's is still an 'oversquare' engine... meaning 4.030" bore bigger than the 3.75" stroke (which came from a stock SBC 400" engine)... so it will still like to rev...

. Others on here are doing something similar to you so can read here what we just told them:


https://www.hotrodders.com/forum/plea...ed-367217.html


https://www.hotrodders.com/forum/355-build-367090.html


https://www.hotrodders.com/forum/carp...-a-367241.html


https://www.hotrodders.com/forum/best...ll-367161.html


https://www.hotrodders.com/forum/1941...3s-367354.html
.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 04-02-2015, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solo383gbody View Post
bore n hone cylinders ,decking block w/ torque plates , blue printing the block , and you can't just toss in the rods the block needs clearanced. line honing, cam bearings, freeze plugs, oil galley plugs changed and then the multiple trips to the hot tan plus a polished crank. there's more to building a reliable 383 than just boring the cylinders out
$1200 is still mighty steep, at least in my area.

Line honing is not always needed, in fact it is done more often than needed in most cases, it really only needs to be done if a trial fit of the crank and bearings shows a problem.
A good portion of hotrodders can easily handle the block clearancing details with a air or electric die grinder(instead of paying a shop to do it), and with todays modern capscrew I-beam connecting rods often there is little or no block clearancing needed.
Unless you buy a cheap crank, it shouldn't need polishing when new.

$650-750 will have everything else done in my neck of the woods. Washed, bagged, and out the door.
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