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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 05-18-2017, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big gear head View Post
It's a yoke, not a yolk.

The yoke is machined in 2 steps. This could simply be machine marks and not actually damage. It's hard to tell from pictures. If you had this yoke in your hand you could tell much more about it. I've seen machine marks in them like this many times.

This is not a 3R yoke. The 3R yokes do not have the tabs on the outer side to hold the caps in place.

This is likely a 1330 yoke. GM used the 1330 yoke on a few 12 bolt rear ends from the factory. Most of them got the 1310 yoke and I have not been able to figure out why some of them got the larger U joints. I've seen 454 and 396 cars with manual transmissions that had the 1310 U joints. You seem to have one of the few that got the larger 1330 joints.
The picture is pretty clear at this end!! I don't know what your looking at but at my end I can enlarge it!
I don't need a spelling lesson (I got my point across) Maybe I was Thinking about eggs for breakfast LOL And being a Machinist I know what a machined yolk (yoke) looks like and if that showed up in quality control it would be scraped!!! You may buy new parts like that but no normal person would ! And after more then 50 yrs. of experience if one of my workers or students said that was normal I would question his intelligence !!!

Jester

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Old 05-18-2017, 02:42 PM
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Thanks for the advice guys.

Also I put all new bearings and seals in the rear end and the transmission was rebuilt/upgraded by a trans shop so for damaged internals there won't be any

As for the notches it doesn't look like the yoke is damaged, just that someone else used a size too big U-joint on the back. I figured worse case I'd get a new one but at the same time if I could track down a U-joint size and press out the other U-joint from the driveshaft and swap the new one in itd be easy too... I can get a better pic of the notches if anyone wants them
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Old 05-18-2017, 03:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stanley9875 View Post
Thanks for the advice guys.

Also I put all new bearings and seals in the rear end and the transmission was rebuilt/upgraded by a trans shop so for damaged internals there won't be any

As for the notches it doesn't look like the yoke is damaged, just that someone else used a size too big U-joint on the back. I figured worse case I'd get a new one but at the same time if I could track down a U-joint size and press out the other U-joint from the driveshaft and swap the new one in itd be easy too... I can get a better pic of the notches if anyone wants them
If by chance a u joint was installed that was too big in diameter for the yolk (YOKE LOL) it would have spread the yoke in order to leave those marks!!! That would mean that the u joint caps that fit in the yoke when it was new and it was in good shape would ge too loose and have a tendency to spin and rock in the saddle !! Remember the easy fix isn't always the right fix !! Especially as HP and Torque increase! !!!

But then if the vehicle is only used to take garbage to the dump I guess easy and quick but wrong could be the right decision for some people !

Jester
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Old 05-18-2017, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by painted jester View Post

If by chance a u joint was installed that was too big in diameter for the yolk (YOKE LOL) it would have spread the yoke in order to leave those marks!!! That would mean that the u joint caps that fit in the yoke when it was new and it was in good shape would ge too loose and have a tendency to spin and rock in the saddle !!
This is very true
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Old 05-18-2017, 06:20 PM
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Try a precision 369 joint

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Old 05-18-2017, 08:23 PM
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I'll admit that this could very well be damage, but I don't think it is. I've seen many yokes with these same lines in them and there was nothing wrong with them. The lines come from the machining process. The area around the tabs is machined in one process and the area where the U joint cap sits is machined in another process. They are not even machined in the same direction. You can't machine a round area and leave a tab sticking up in one process. Because these areas are machined separately there is usually going to be a little mismatch between them.

If this was due to wear it would probably only be on one side of the yoke. Most of the time only one side of the U joint will go bad and damage a yoke. Most of the damaged yokes that I have had to replace were only damaged on one side. Also, you have the same marks on both sides of the bore. Usually wear marks will only be on the side of the bore that is under pressure while driving forward. Your yoke has marks on both sides of the bore, which would be very unusual.

The best way that you can tell if it's damaged or not is to get a new 1330 U joint and see if the caps fit tight in the yoke. If they fit tight then the yoke is fine. If they are loose then the yoke is damaged.
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Old 05-18-2017, 09:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big gear head View Post
I'll admit that this could very well be damage, but I don't think it is. I've seen many yokes with these same lines in them and there was nothing wrong with them. The lines come from the machining process. The area around the tabs is machined in one process and the area where the U joint cap sits is machined in another process. They are not even machined in the same direction. You can't machine a round area and leave a tab sticking up in one process. Because these areas are machined separately there is usually going to be a little mismatch between them.

If this was due to wear it would probably only be on one side of the yoke. Most of the time only one side of the U joint will go bad and damage a yoke. Most of the damaged yokes that I have had to replace were only damaged on one side. Also, you have the same marks on both sides of the bore. Usually wear marks will only be on the side of the bore that is under pressure while driving forward. Your yoke has marks on both sides of the bore, which would be very unusual.

The best way that you can tell if it's damaged or not is to get a new 1330 U joint and see if the caps fit tight in the yoke. If they fit tight then the yoke is fine. If they are loose then the yoke is damaged.
Interesting... Yea what I figured id do is go to napa or o'rilleys and see what u-joints they offer for a el camino/chevelle 12-bolt and I guess start trying them
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Old 05-19-2017, 03:57 AM
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Here's a better link that doesn't show a ridiculous ruler that you don't own.

All dimensions and cap diameters shown.
Just measure and you can find the right part.

Identify Part by Dimension (J300P)
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Old 05-19-2017, 05:22 AM
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Originally Posted by big gear head
I'll admit that this could very well be damage, but I don't think it is. I've seen many yokes with these same lines in them and there was nothing wrong with them. The lines come from the machining process. The area around the tabs is machined in one process and the area where the U joint cap sits is machined in another process. They are not even machined in the same direction. You can't machine a round area and leave a tab sticking up in one process. Because these areas are machined separately there is usually going to be a little mismatch between them.

If this was due to wear it would probably only be on one side of the yoke. Most of the time only one side of the U joint will go bad and damage a yoke. Most of the damaged yokes that I have had to replace were only damaged on one side. Also, you have the same marks on both sides of the bore. Usually wear marks will only be on the side of the bore that is under pressure while driving forward. Your yoke has marks on both sides of the bore, which would be very unusual.

The best way that you can tell if it's damaged or not is to get a new 1330 U joint and see if the caps fit tight in the yoke. If they fit tight then the yoke is fine. If they are loose then the yoke is damaged.


Quote:
Originally Posted by stanley9875 View Post
Interesting... Yea what I figured id do is go to napa or o'rilleys and see what u-joints they offer for a el camino/chevelle 12-bolt and I guess start trying them

Not having a large post count not that means anything. My money is saying there will not be very many choices...... in other words the U joint will be of a standard size that will fit many application.

"u-joints they offer for a el camino/chevelle 12-bolt"

Darn this seems very much like an idea posted earlier, and noting the machine marks ......

But roundly rebuffed, no way that yoke is bad.. Very interesting would you not say?

Greg

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Old 05-19-2017, 10:58 AM
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in post #12 I asked about this retainer tab , and got no answer, it has damage in my opinion not machining marks!! (a better picture would show more), it also looks shorter then the other tab in his picture because of this damage! They should be machined precise to hold the u joint centered! Thats also why I asked if everyone really looked at the pic!

Jester
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Old 05-19-2017, 11:05 AM
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It's hard to tell with that shadow on it.
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Old 05-19-2017, 11:50 AM
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Sorry about the delay guys at work, here's a pic of when I was replacing the bearings and seals I can get a better pic when I go to work on the car after work

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Old 05-19-2017, 01:35 PM
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It has a little step in it, but there is still enough material at the base of the tab to keep the cap located. I don't think this is going to be a problem. Just be sure that when you put the U joint in the yoke that you get it seated completely and don't let the cap set on this step.
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Old 05-19-2017, 02:30 PM
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What is the vehicle used for and how much HP are you planing on applying to that yoke ? The (I "DON'T" think its going to be a problem) is a problem!

That is damage so are the other marks from a U joint cap !!
Like I said if the vehicle isn't needed for anything other then garbage runs or corner grocery runs then trust a (I "DON'T" think its going to be a problem) !

If there is damage you can see there may be damage you can't see! If you are putting heavy stress on that yoke like High torque 6000 RPM shift points, or trans brake launches, Etc, Etc, its better to take the side of caution rather then try to save a few dollars That isn't a 400 dollar yoke for racing!!! its a cheap stock yoke !!

The owner put money in his trans, more in his drive shaft ,even more in his differential and now he is afraid to make a decision on spending a little for a questionable yoke???

I'll give a very qualified suggestion on what I would do!! I would Do it right and REPLACE THAT YOKE its a no brainer

Jester
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Old 05-19-2017, 09:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stanley9875 View Post
Sorry about the delay guys at work, here's a pic of when I was replacing the bearings and seals I can get a better pic when I go to work on the car after work

Now that's a game changer, that step is not good

Greg
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