Troubleshooting my 1950 Studebaker Champion - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans Advertise
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Hotrodding Basics
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2008, 10:28 PM
ret_marine2003's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: NORTHERN MICHIGAN
Posts: 103
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Troubleshooting my 1950 Studebaker Champion

I have a stock 1950 Studebaker Champion.
(Flat head 6, 3 speed OD, 6 volt electric)

Early this summer I had an issue that I immediately presumed to be my carburetor.

The car is running rough like it has bad gas in it and dies.

I added five gallons of fresh gas to lean out the bad and added a bottle of dry gas just in case around the time it started stumbling.

I ordered a rebuild kit from one of the suppliers and completely rebuilt the carb.

I am still having the same problem.

I tend to tear things apart and rebuild until I have exorcised the demons.

I am looking for suggestions and input on other causes for this problem before I tear it all apart.

The car is sitting at a friends house approximately 40 miles north of me.

I would like to get it home.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2008, 05:37 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Bastrop, Tx
Posts: 212
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I'm thinking a dirty gas tank. Good fuel filter?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2008, 01:10 PM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: 29 Ford Tudor
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: SW Kansas
Age: 71
Posts: 50
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
If the above check out OK, pull the distributor cap and check the point gap. The tab on the points may be worn down so as not to open the points correctly any more. Could also be a failing condensor in with the points.

Charles
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2008, 02:27 PM
techinspector1's Avatar
Member
 
Last wiki edit: DynoSim combinations
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Zephyrhills, Florida, USA
Age: 77
Posts: 16,913
Wiki Edits: 326

Thanks: 1,890
Thanked 2,801 Times in 2,098 Posts
Back to basics. It has been my experience that you want to replace the battery cables and all ground cables on a car of this vintage to begin with. You can end up chasing your tail doing other replacements, while all the time it could be as simple as providing a good conduit for electricity throughout the car. Even if it does not help in your case, you've provided a good basis for further troubleshooting and eliminated one potential problem. It's a low-buck operation too. We went through this a while back on another thread. The fellow replaced this and that to no avail. When he removed the positive battery cable, it crumbled to pieces in his hand.

Get new positive and negative battery cables and two new braided ground straps. Clean and sand to bare metal on all connections. Choose a spot on the firewall to connect your new ground straps. Connect one of them frame to firewall and the other from firewall to motor block or head.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2008, 06:24 PM
ret_marine2003's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: NORTHERN MICHIGAN
Posts: 103
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I have done the fuel filter and will do it again next time I get out there just in case there is some sediment from the tank.

I was thinking about doing the points, so I will place another order and check the gap.

I did not consider the cables, but will replace those as well.

Unfortunately, the car is 40 miles away and the cables will be difficult to change where it is.

I would rather drive it home than tow it.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Hotrodding Basics posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
I need a carb. rebuild kit for my bone stock 1950 Studebaker Champion ret_marine2003 Hotrodding Basics 11 08-19-2009 06:52 AM
FUGS the Studebaker FUGS the Studebaker Introduce Yourself 3 08-28-2007 08:20 PM
1950 studebaker 1/2 ton pickup stude50pu Introduce Yourself 1 12-21-2005 11:42 PM
1950 Studebaker Truck Frame/Suspension Lugnuts Suspension - Brakes - Steering 1 07-28-2005 06:31 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:32 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.