I studied the pictures again and was going to ask the question of fading into the metal and becoming transparent. Brian already answered it in his last post and that tied things together
It should feather over the metal and there are a few small spots where this has been done it looks like. It's the solid line transitions that are problematic and need more filler.
I also see why the paint needs to be further back.....you can see the high spots and you know the inside of the circular pattern is low. You don't know if outside of the circle is low because the paint is covering it so you pull the paint back to see?
This is finally starting to make sense. I've only used 3/4 of a gallon of rage extreme on these spots and a few other small ones that were covered by the primer. Hopefully they won't shrink. They were more like dings.
Basically what I've taken out of this is that you finish the filler to almost perfection BEFORE high build. You last coat of filler should be like your first coat of high build.
I have 2 questions.......if the primer is going to shrink and sink down into body work filled by primer. How long will that take with the car sitting in the shop?
Mine has been sitting there in high build for 2 months on the first coat and 3 weeks on the second round of blocking with 180....I had to buy a new gun to spray the primer more evenly. The blocking is taking shape though.
Second question is......since the body work has been sprayed with high build.....then glazing putty put over the high build. What now.....if I want to put more filler in there should I take it out down past the high build and start over?
I was told glazing putty can be put over high build.....but regular filler should not be.