Warpage! what to do. - Page 2 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans Advertise
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #16 (permalink)  
Old 10-16-2006, 04:16 PM
35WINDOW's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: Update on my Build-Lights
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: In a State of Confusion
Age: 65
Posts: 1,614
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 81
Thanked 88 Times in 74 Posts
No,

You want to grind them down CLOSE to flat, leaving, say .030-.060 (guessing) so that WHEN you Hammer & Dolly you aren't too thin. Remember, what you are doing is to Hammer the Welds flat (making the Metal thinner, so you are in fact "stretching" the Metal).

If you were to start Hammering before grinding you will end up with a mess. It's hard enough to get consistency with the welds ground down (with a good series of "spots"), you will have to be patient and watch how much you are hammering.

From the sounds of what has happened, I will venture a guess that you have "puckered" this panel because you had a bunch of blow-throughs, then you spotted them back, creating more heat (which equals more shrinkage) in a small area, making your problem more challenging. Put aside a bunch of time, as you will have to gauge how much you are stretching as you are hammering (on Dolly).

I have fought Panels like this before, so Hammer, check, feel, Hammer, check feel, and so on.

    Advertisement

Last edited by 35WINDOW; 10-16-2006 at 04:28 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #17 (permalink)  
Old 10-16-2006, 07:07 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 154
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
The bulges/puckers are at the corners of the patch panel. I had to stairstep the shape to avoid old lead fill areas. It makes sense because that is where there is the most concentration of welds (heat). I was real careful about heat but it did it anyway at the corners. I don't have faith in this hammering thing yet because I have never tried it. Seems weird right now. I hope it woks because I have to cut access holes and reach in with one of those long dollies. Never done dolly work either. do you just place dolly behind the weld and hit on dolly/weld? How hard of a hit are we talking? Megahard or tap or like nailing in a small nail or? Thanks very much for the advice 35window! I really need help right now. I don't feel good about the project/job I did. I am leaning to weld thin though. Using 20ga, hope it hammers well. The copper trick is the only way I would have fixed the burn thrus. Otherwise I was chasing holes around all day.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #18 (permalink)  
Old 10-16-2006, 07:39 PM
[email protected]
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Newport News, VA
Posts: 3,214
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Keep in mind, when hammer and dollying, the harder you hit, either the quicker you will be done, or the more damage you will do. With little or no experience, you need to do it in small steps. That means small hits.

Aaron
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
  #19 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2006, 07:38 AM
35WINDOW's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: Update on my Build-Lights
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: In a State of Confusion
Age: 65
Posts: 1,614
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 81
Thanked 88 Times in 74 Posts
I would recommend that you purchase one of the Video's that are available on the subject (Ron Covell, Ron Fournier, Wray Schelin)-I'm certain there are oithers, but you should understand the concept first, practice on some Sheetmetal to gain some skill, then attempt your panel (IMHO)-
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #20 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2006, 07:46 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location:
Posts: 3,700
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Use a hammer on dolly to stretch the metal, use a hammer off dolly to bend the metal/change the height of an area. Another good tool to use is a hand held shotbag instead of a dolly when moving metal height. Grab yourself a scrap piece of sheetmetal and spend some time with both techniques to see for yourself how dolly placement and hammer force effects the sheetmetal. The shrinking disc is an awesome tool and if anyone doing bumpwork doesn't have one definately buy one or make one yourself. Bumping large flimsy panels like hoods and roofs and trying to shrink areas on such panels is almost impossible without the disc, a torch or unispotter used for shrinking can create a whole lot of damaged in the hands of the inexperiences. With the shrinking disc if you shrink too far simply hammer and dolly some stretch back into the area and proceed.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #21 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2006, 10:00 AM
Shabby chic sheet metalshaper
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Moclips, Wa.
Posts: 233
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Brian,

I just thought of something; have you tried putting more pressure on the metal when using your shrinking disc?

Bartamos,

Here is an aricle with links to several more on dent repair etc:

http://metalshapers.org/101/jkelly/index.html

Pratice on test panels before working on your pride and joy!

John
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #22 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2006, 11:09 AM
MARTINSR's Avatar
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Boise, Idaho
Age: 61
Posts: 16,222
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 6,625
Thanked 7,324 Times in 4,555 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by John Kelly
Brian,

I just thought of something; have you tried putting more pressure on the metal when using your shrinking disc?

John
John, I'll give it a try, I though I was applying enough pressure. The only things I have been using it on lately are 2006-7 Toyotas and applying a lot of pressure to the center of the roof of a new Toyota Corolla isn't going to get you much other than a caved in roof.

I'll work on that though. I am using the monster 15 amp 5000 rpm grinder that weighs a ton. It is pretty hard NOT to apply a lot of pressure just from the weight of that thing.

Brian
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #23 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2006, 11:45 AM
Bee4Me's Avatar
Problem Child,Hard Case
 

Last journal entry: Strangest job I've ever done
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ARK.
Age: 63
Posts: 1,773
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Your wandering again!!!
I ordered one from John. I got a problem child hood with a cuple of high spots which are not accessable from underneith due to the bracing and my readhering the brace to the hood probbly didn't help matters. Some bigfoot mashed in the right center of the back edge hood skin and I got it worked back up with a stud gun but it needs leveling back down and the hammer/dolly just won't work due to no openings and I'm sure not cutting the brace.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Panel warpage help? Gearhead forever Body - Exterior 8 12-03-2005 05:02 PM
warpage Jzarczyn Body - Exterior 22 10-11-2004 06:47 AM
How to check rearend housing for warpage? shockers69 Transmission - Rearend 1 07-12-2004 11:11 PM
HELP weld warpage Lay'nFrame Body - Exterior 7 02-25-2003 10:00 PM
Correcting Weld Warpage? TurboS10 Body - Exterior 8 01-31-2003 05:47 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:11 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.