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Old 12-28-2009, 08:23 PM
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welding your own exhaust question

have any of you guys used a arc welder to weld your pipes? i can arc weld pretty good, but its always been stuff like thicker metals( engine pullers ect ) can you weld 2 1-2 inch pipe? without burning through? or should i just pay a guy to do it? ( wire fed ) or should i just buy a cheap wire welder?

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Old 12-28-2009, 08:31 PM
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Always just used my wire fed to weld exhaust, never tried the stick on it as I've always had issues burning through on stuff that thin. Cheapest route would probably be to have somebody do it for you, or use it as a good excuse to buy a wire fed machine
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Old 12-28-2009, 08:35 PM
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I have done it with real small rod and low amps........easier with the wire welder.
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Old 12-28-2009, 08:36 PM
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It's really not ideal but if your pipes fit together nicely and you need it done it can be done. Just make sure you have small electrodes.

You'd be better off paying someone to do it with a mig/gas/tig welder. It shouldn't cost very much.
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Old 12-28-2009, 10:56 PM
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stick

You have to go to a 3/32" 6010 or 6011 for direct current reverse polarity (negative ground) or 6013 alternating current . They make 1/16"rods but are harder to find. I use 309 stainless because it is a contact rod and tends to start a good arc easier. Dont, breathe the fumes of any rod especially stainless.
Hard wire with argon 20% carbon dioxide 80% is the best. Use .023 diameter wire though .030 will work. ER70s I think is the material.
Flux core will work.
Tungsten Inert Gas will work but is overkill unless the system is stainless steel
Clint
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Old 12-28-2009, 11:47 PM
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when in doubt, do try it on the real thing. If you have scrap 2.5 in pipe laying around. try it and see how it works.
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Old 12-29-2009, 07:09 AM
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almost all of my exhaust has been done with an arc welder. Its what I have, so I make it work, at first it took a little to get used to but by the time I finished the first weld I had it under control. You can burn through pipe with a wire welder too if you're not careful, I did that a few times at the shop I worked at, easy to fix though.



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Old 12-29-2009, 07:36 AM
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perhaps ill try a few dry runs on a few pieces of pipe i got in the shop....the wife already said, " well why dont you just buy a wire welder too?" so that door is open as well, although i have zero experience with that.....im running a ad on craigslist as well for a guy to just come do it...we' ll see...
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Old 12-29-2009, 08:44 AM
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sure it works. I do all my exhaust systems and my friends systems with an arch welder and mandrels.

Tips:

make sure the pipes fit close together.

use short burst (1 second long) to go all around the joint

then go back and put on longer heavier welds.

it will take at least 2 passes to get a leak proof weld.

use 3/32" 6011 rods and about 35 amps.

a sharpe marker, hand held band saw, bench vise, and grinder will come in handy
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Old 12-29-2009, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diamond mike
have any of you guys used a arc welder to weld your pipes? i can arc weld pretty good, but its always been stuff like thicker metals( engine pullers ect ) can you weld 2 1-2 inch pipe? without burning through? or should i just pay a guy to do it? ( wire fed ) or should i just buy a cheap wire welder?
A stick welder will prove to be an exercise to weld thin tube without making holes. Keep in mind exhaust pipe, isn't pipe it's thin wall tube. You can back up the seam with a piece of ID fitting tube, this buys some space to sink the heat from a stick welder, but adds a reduced diameter inside the pipe at the seams.

An inexpensive low power wire feed will work. Still will take some practice as these even at low power settings are a lot hotter than oxy-acetylene.

Oxy-acetylene is really nice for thin wall tube as the heat is easy to control.

My preference down thru the years has been to buy the tool rather than pay someone else to do the work where there isn't too much of a cost difference and the cost of the tools isn't prohibitive compared to the cost of buying the function of the tools from a pro.

Bogie
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Old 12-29-2009, 12:17 PM
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You can do it. I widened my beetle fenders with an arch welder (stick). It takes practice though. I would practice on some scrap first, but it's very doable.

Use a 6013 1/16" welding rod at about 40 amps. You could possibly get a away using a 3/32" 6013 rod but the amount of amps it takes to even burn the rod may blow through the metal depending on the gauge of tubing used.
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Old 12-29-2009, 07:03 PM
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well damn. im really torn here....i know how you feel bogie, as i too almost ALWAYS just pay for a tool than just rent it ( as a result i got most "specialty tools , well ok, ALOT of them ) but i do got a guy cert. welder for 5 yrs says he will do it for 50$ ( total of 4 welds ) i might have to do that....although i now have a rod # and starting amp point.......have to think on it for a day or so till payday
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Old 12-29-2009, 07:05 PM
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also is it safe to weld lying on plywood alone? ( i usually am standing on rubber)
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Old 12-30-2009, 03:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diamond mike
also is it safe to weld lying on plywood alone? ( i usually am standing on rubber)

You'll be fine. You don't even have to have plywood there if you don't want it. It's fuel lines and tank you should be thinking about, try not to arc onto those lol. Someone nearby as a fire spotter is good practice but that's up to you.

As mentioned earlier, have a go on some scrap tubing and if its really yuck/doesn't work after several goes you might choose to pay the $50 and not have to worry about it. However it is doable and if you spend enough time practicing (and get your welder on the right setting) you'll get it eventually.

From Roy
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Old 12-30-2009, 07:18 AM
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just make tacks under the car or use a sharpe to mark the position of two pipes to be welded.

Plan doing the welds on a work bench or just on the floor (away for the car). It will take a lot of exhaust install and uninstall work before you get it all done.

6011's worked so much better than 6013's on my exhaust work. the 6013's tend to not take a reweld very well.

it will take 20 or 30 welds to do a dual mandrel system with an H-pipe that exits at the bumper. at least 2 full days with a stick welder.

I found butt welds are the easiest.
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