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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 09-16-2005, 05:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pimpin72
I have wetsanded 10 year old clear (and it is very easy to see what spots had been sanded, with the water running over it), and I could clearly see the orange peel after buffing out the sanding scratches. I am sure they are in the basecoat. After a couple of weeks, I did see some sanding scratches appear in some places, so I rebuffed completely, and it is very smooth now. However, there is still an orange peel reflection.
Scott
If your orange peel is in the reflection aren't you saying it's on the
outside surface? If not and what you're seeing is in fact the base then
sanding and buffing won't help.
But if it's the surface then it's simply not sanded flat enough.
after you block sand the clear and dry it off there should be no
shiny spots, not all of these will show up while wet.
I use a squeegee as I go, wiping off what I've done to check.
You have to get it clean and dry to really check.
Also as far as new paint goes, every show car owner I've talked to has
told me they have rebuffed their paint months after the first buff.
They will shrink down just a tiny bit more over time.
I like to wait at least a week to cut and buff my clear, it really
helps. The small shrinkage after that is hardly noticeable.
Mt current car took a year before I could see some additional shrinkage,
No one else sees it. For that true glass finish it all comes down to
block sanding and buffing, that's how it's done, there is no other way.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2005, 12:16 AM
 
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getting warmer

jcclark,
At first, I wasn't getting it, but I can kinda see what yer talkin' about. If I kept the water running over my sanding, I could see where I hadn't sanded, but I couldn't tell how much I had sanded it, until I had let it dry. The well sanded areas were very satiny looking. The lesser sanded areas still had some shiny mixed in. I haven't spent as much time on previous cars, as I have this one. It was a black conversion van, and I thought I might sand away evidence of vinyl striping. No such luck! But in other areas, I figured the paint would look like glass when I was done. The thing that gets me, is the paint is ten years old. It is definitely dry. I spent over 8 hours wetsanding it, then another 4 hours buffing, and the next day, I could still see the orange peel. I tried rewetsanding one side, but it did not change the results much at all. The reflection was very beautiful for that old of van. I mean, it was like looking at my reflection in a calm pond. But, up close, I could still see orange peel. Pretty heavy orange peel. Perhaps, since the ghost signs of the stripes are still there, maybe there is an orange peely clear that they sprayed over to seal the stripes. As I am typing this, I am getting an idea. I am going to go check the places where the stripes were. If there is no orange peel, then I know that the orange peel on the rest of the van is from the original clearcoat. Previously, I had only wetsanded out blemishes, and the finish has always had time to finish curing for my further inspection, and always had orange peel. I figured I had an advantage over curing with this old of a vehicle, but who knows. I would like to know if anyone has wetsanded a (single stage) primary color, then applied clear? Can you see the satiny scratch marks after clear is applied? If a single stage primary color was sanded and buffed, could it be cleared by a normal clear coat and wetsanded for a smoother finish? Thanks again guys!!!! I am learning (slowly but surely)!!
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 09-06-2006, 11:35 AM
 
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once you sand out your imperfections in bc/cc crossfire is what i use. I must say i havent had any problems with crossfire next to the highly touted tech base. My question is this, once imperfections are sanded out with 6-800 grit what is the proper way to buff, the reason i dont buff is i always used acrylic enamel in the past and burned through it now they have the foam pads and bc/cc is tougher so what is the method in steps in buffing please help thanks.
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