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Old 11-08-2019, 06:31 AM
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What can be used.If batterys in trunk???

My 50 merc has the battery in the trunk..now!............to get needed power,I'm not wanting to run Another 12 volt wire- under ALL carpet and seats and.....you name it.The Merc is excellently grounded- body to frame- frame to engine and back to battery. Can i get the 12volts needed- off of the alternator post.And save taking this whole kar apart for this one wire?if i have to i will but.... The ignition switch, i can get to he back of the switch- while switch is in the dash.The rest of this install would be easier for me. Or! share where this won't work.Ihave Gazilliion different relays iN my shop. Nothing needed in that catagory[hopefully] thanks all ,and welcome back to my post.This $60.00 plugin kit on Amazon?????Would that be the best way to go? -A budget enters the [email protected] point, if that HAS to be done I will get one, great day all this tgif day bob s-- thanks to all who have and helped me -most likely will again, somewhere.here
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Old 11-08-2019, 07:01 AM
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Originally the feed wire to the Ignition and dash sourced from the starter solenoid battery side. This is where the battery cable from the trunk would connect. I don't know why you couldn't get your 12v hot at that point.


You mentioned an alternator, I would assume that some rewiring has been done in order to convert to an alternator. Not knowing the extent of mods that have been done, I would caution that most vintage wiring is cotton braid covered rubber insulation. Years of exposure to heat and atmosphere have probably returned the rubber to it's base element, Carbon, loosing all flexibility and most of it's value as an insulator
I have a whole box of wire(complete harness) I removed from my '53 ford, when I bent a wire, you could feel the insulation crack under the cotton braid.

I think the braiding just acts as a slow burn fuse used to transfer the fire to another point.
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Old 11-08-2019, 08:01 AM
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Thank you for taking the time to check out this small prob i am having MGK.Its called age And lot slower comprehension--of the task at hand. This Merc being entirely rewired in the build- i did on it ,in 2004.Alternator etc is all 2004.....'much newer] than original wiring in this Merc. The power to the fan can come directly from the alternator battery post.I don't know yet but i believe i can come off the center ign switch post.......for............the that part of the circuit.If i am wrong someone i hope will chime in --on my mistakes be there any cheers MGK bob s
ps definitely going to get 12volts from under the hood ...if i can not the trunk.
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Old 11-08-2019, 09:10 AM
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I would avoid any high current connections inside the cabin. In rewiring my rod I ran anything that would require more than 10 amps from an accessory relay in the engine compartment. I ran a wire from tha acc term of the ignition to acc solenoid. Solenoid powers cooling fans and heater high/low fan speed.
I don't think vintage ignition switch can handle more than 30 amps without heating up. You have to remember that electrical system back then were really basic. Generators only charged at 30 amps or so. Now you are adding another 100 amps to that.

I was always told that they call it a firewall for a reason.
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Old 11-08-2019, 11:29 AM
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is your starter solenoid under hood or in the trunk?
an electric fan could take 40 amps or more, definitely don't want to connect it to the ignition switch circuit
you could always run a new wire from the battery in the frame, cover it in vinyl hose for added insulation
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Old 11-08-2019, 01:53 PM
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Starter Solenoid is under my hood Ogre.As i read this a new 10gauge wire [insulated] "on the frame" all the way up- to power up the fan switch? Am i correct Ogre? and ~~~just the fan on this 10 gauge circuit i take it?thanks Ogre


bob s
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Old 11-08-2019, 04:49 PM
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Ok you want to keep it under the hood with electric fans.

The reason is you can run your relays right next to the battery then the fans have a reserve right there instead of 15+ feet away.



But if your going to run it in the trunk run the positive and negative 4 to 0 gagge wires up along the frame rail next to your fuel lines to the starter BAT lug and back of the block.

From the starter and block you run your power wires to power and ground the rest.

Running the batt to a firewall mounted positive junction point is recommended. Then having the alternatiors sense wire read off this junction point.

This gives starter priority as it should have.

Back to your fans you can run a 4 gauge off the starter BAT lug to a spot on the fenderwell by the front clip for a bank of relays powering the fans and headlights.


Budget wise a rear battery is not recommended. Expect to spend over $200( I have spent 400 before) to relocate that battery as well as to vent it property.

Heater hose and frame clamps mske for good cheap uv/heat protection.
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Old 11-11-2019, 10:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bsa_bob2 View Post
Starter Solenoid is under my hood
just wire the fan off the starter solenoid
main battery cable is connected to one side of the solenoid
definitely fuse anything coming off this cable
chances are that your fuse panel already comes off this side of the starter solenoid
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