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  #15166 (permalink)  
Old 01-19-2016, 08:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
Tonight I had to get out there and spin my Hotel California album RIP Glenn. I finished up the die. If you look at the first photo you can see a row of half plug welds. Those are holding the 18 gauge to the 14 (as I remember it's 14) making it thicker as I the 14 wasn't enough. I trued the edge of both pieces and then tacked the panel to them as Pugsy suggested (worked great!) and I then put it on my "anvil" and put the smaller metal pipe I have on it striking the pipe with my 4lb sledge. It worked awesome! Now, I screwed up not noticing that it had moved over off the anvil so I screwed it up a bit. But even then not enough to toss it, pretty neat!

Brian
It looks awfully good to me. It has a nice crisp edge. What gauge metal did you use for the patch?

John

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  #15167 (permalink)  
Old 01-19-2016, 08:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
It looks awfully good to me. It has a nice crisp edge. What gauge metal did you use for the patch?

John
18 A piece of 1/8" would have worked awesome for the upper "die" as this one did get distorted at the edge. But it was more about me not being careful than anything. With the pipe right up to the edge it worked fine, I mistakenly let it come back a bit a few times. I have a larger pipe too that is way closer to the contour of the curve that I will give a shot too.

On the crisp edge, the welding the two dies together that you can see way out at the ends, that is what made all the difference. I was able to put it up real tight and it held there because of the welds. In my previous test holding it there was a looser for sure, no way can you keep it tight.

Brian
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  #15168 (permalink)  
Old 01-19-2016, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
I got a little closer to making our fabbed bed floor work in the 67 Ranger today. Had to create a shim over the front xmember and roll a flange at the back edge. Its wierd but I'm just finishing what another started as usual. I'll be plugging it in tomorrow and praying to the warpage gods ha ha.
I have gotten so that I weld a HOT quick weld. I mean HOT, like I am welding 1/8" metal hot. But you can weld a very quick weld like this that doesn't seem to create the same heat as keeping the heat down trying to be careful as those welds take longer to get a good bead started.


Brian
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  #15169 (permalink)  
Old 01-19-2016, 06:36 PM
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Saturday my Chevelle club had a tech session and we stripped the '66 Chevelle frame bare. Today John and I stripped the control arms of bushings and ball joints and then I opened another can of worms...



I added a plate inside the frame and an angle iron on the bottom edge 3 years ago, laying on the floor. Today I decided to eliminate the angle iron on the edge...






I cut as much of the rusted original frame out as I could get at. I will leave the gusset plate I put in and will build the frame back with new material.

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  #15170 (permalink)  
Old 01-19-2016, 07:07 PM
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Today was a slow day in the garage. I replaced the wheel studs in the rear axles for ones that were longer to work with the new wheels. I have the frame all preped and ready to paint with KBS satin black...just waiting for the rain to stop for a couple of days. The directions say not to paint when it is raining as this product is moisture cured. I also sketched out the mounting frame for the e-brake actuator.
Tomorrow it is not supposed to rain but I have to run down to the RV shop and pick up my motorhome and trailer. So that will eat up a good part of my day. I figure that I will need most of a day to get the frame painted.
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  #15171 (permalink)  
Old 01-19-2016, 07:22 PM
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TooManyProjects- Ain't it lovely how GM A-bodies do that? Hey at least your control arm mounts haven't ripped out a hunk like my GP did on one side. And at least you braced that before it broke like my 72 SS. No worries, your Chevelle's frame will be better than new. Question is- How's the other side look? It always bothered me how GM left that giant dogleg area of the frames just bare inside.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
I have gotten so that I weld a HOT quick weld. I mean HOT, like I am welding 1/8" metal hot. But you can weld a very quick weld like this that doesn't seem to create the same heat as keeping the heat down trying to be careful as those welds take longer to get a good bead started.


Brian
I didn't get quite that far yet, to start welding the thing in today. Screwed it all together tight and mounted it up on the frame, test-fitted the new gate and worked out bed mounting hardware issues. Made eight square holes for carriage bolts with burr and file, etc. Started prepping weld holes for tomorrow.

But... Brian thats just how I like to do them too. Hot, deep, quick. Due to the non-OE floor, a 3/16" shim was needed over one xmember so I boxed it with bar stock and cranked the Miller 212 to it's .030 wire setting for that- 6/70 on the dials. Man now thats fun. Zap and wiggle then stop, done. The cherry may be more intense but heat transfer takes time so yeah... I agree. I'm more of a grinder than a welder though, lol. I'll probably weld up the floor on the 1/8" settings, the floor is 16 ga and the xmembers might be that or 14. Also I am from the "cool it with air movement after the cherry dies but before the warpage sets in" camp. Sometimes I even guide the heat that way with a blow gun if I "need" a little warpage in a certain direction. When I butt thin stuff it often looks like the bottom of a seat at the bijou. (bubble gum ha ha)
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  #15172 (permalink)  
Old 01-19-2016, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
TooManyProjects- Ain't it lovely how GM A-bodies do that? Hey at least your control arm mounts haven't ripped out a hunk like my GP did on one side. And at least you braced that before it broke like my 72 SS. No worries, your Chevelle's frame will be better than new. Question is- How's the other side look? It always bothered me how GM left that giant dogleg area of the frames just bare inside.



I didn't get quite that far yet, to start welding the thing in today. Screwed it all together tight and mounted it up on the frame, test-fitted the new gate and worked out bed mounting hardware issues. Made eight square holes for carriage bolts with burr and file, etc. Started prepping weld holes for tomorrow.

But... Brian thats just how I like to do them too. Hot, deep, quick. Due to the non-OE floor, a 3/16" shim was needed over one xmember so I boxed it with bar stock and cranked the Miller 212 to it's .030 wire setting for that- 6/70 on the dials. Man now thats fun. Zap and wiggle then stop, done. The cherry may be more intense but heat transfer takes time so yeah... I agree. I'm more of a grinder than a welder though, lol. I'll probably weld up the floor on the 1/8" settings, the floor is 16 ga and the xmembers might be that or 14. Also I am from the "cool it with air movement after the cherry dies but before the warpage sets in" camp. Sometimes I even guide the heat that way with a blow gun if I "need" a little warpage in a certain direction. When I butt thin stuff it often looks like the bottom of a seat at the bijou. (bubble gum ha ha)
Really watch out with that air, you are shrinking the metal, shrinking causes warpage. Let those welds cool naturally.

Brian
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  #15173 (permalink)  
Old 01-19-2016, 08:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
Really watch out with that air, you are shrinking the metal, shrinking causes warpage. Let those welds cool naturally.

Brian
I will really watch out then. Floor is made of hot rolled steel to boot. Holes were pre-drilled with a 1/4 bit before epoxy and I'm prepping them with a 6mm Zebra high-speed (flat-nose with pilot point) spot weld removal bit. Normally I would use an 8mm for this gauge but settled for the 6 and will try to weld them quickly. If a weld goes well for me- no air unless I see trouble, OK? Using a HF helmet half a dozen years old so I don't see much while welding lol. I have had zero control of the job until now and it has several oversights that I'm dealing with. Like where two extra bed mount bolts got added, ha ha. The work piece is sufficiently huge so I can jump around a lot with my plug welds, and expectations are nada on appearance anyway since a wood floor kit will cover every bit of what I'm doing.
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  #15174 (permalink)  
Old 01-19-2016, 09:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
TooManyProjects- Ain't it lovely how GM A-bodies do that? Hey at least your control arm mounts haven't ripped out a hunk like my GP did on one side. And at least you braced that before it broke like my 72 SS. No worries, your Chevelle's frame will be better than new. Question is- How's the other side look? It always bothered me how GM left that giant dogleg area of the frames just bare inside.
The other side is the same. It will get the same repair...
I just couldn't bear to send it for powder coating without doing a proper repair...sometimes I hate having CDO...
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  #15175 (permalink)  
Old 01-19-2016, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
The other side is the same. It will get the same repair...
I just couldn't bear to send it for powder coating without doing a proper repair...sometimes I hate having CDO...
Well, doggone it. I walked up to a nice looking GS once with a for sale sign in it. When I peeked underneath at that spot I thought "I could destroy this with a sharp pencil point" and walked away. They never learned, 97-03 GPs get monstrous rocker and tower rot because no coatings in cavities. A constant reminder of how long the bodies were all intended to last. I'll keep an eye peeled for your fix since I haven't done one. Powder coating is my favorite on frames too, my bud had his 64 Imp X frame done while I did the body and I sure think its a win over paint labor. He couldn't watch while I hosed the insides with rust fighter and it dripped out here and there. It was the guy with the sinking Chevelles, go figure! On yours, just go where it leads you and it will be excellent. Curious what you'll do, so I shall lurk your thread periodically!
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  #15176 (permalink)  
Old 01-20-2016, 01:38 PM
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The other side is the same. It will get the same repair...
I just couldn't bear to send it for powder coating without doing a proper repair...sometimes I hate having CDO...
Sounds/looks like memories of the Goat. Bet it brought a tear to your eye, of frustration.....
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  #15177 (permalink)  
Old 01-20-2016, 07:57 PM
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Sounds/looks like memories of the Goat. Bet it brought a tear to your eye, of frustration.....
No, the GTO frame was totally irreparable. That's why I drove to Oklahoma for a pristine frame.
This frame isn't really bad, I was just hoping it wouldn't need as extensive a cut as I did. It'll be good when done and has the matching partial vin yet, so it wasn't an option to replace it. I cut out and formed the first of the 2 patches for this side tonight.
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  #15178 (permalink)  
Old 01-20-2016, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
No, the GTO frame was totally irreparable. That's why I drove to Oklahoma for a pristine frame.
This frame isn't really bad, I was just hoping it wouldn't need as extensive a cut as I did. It'll be good when done and has the matching partial vin yet, so it wasn't an option to replace it. I cut out and formed the first of the 2 patches for this side tonight.
Darn, I hate you broke your camera.

John
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  #15179 (permalink)  
Old 01-20-2016, 08:32 PM
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Darn, I hate you broke your camera.

John


If there are no pictures ,,????? lol
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  #15180 (permalink)  
Old 01-20-2016, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
No, the GTO frame was totally irreparable. That's why I drove to Oklahoma for a pristine frame.
This frame isn't really bad, I was just hoping it wouldn't need as extensive a cut as I did. It'll be good when done and has the matching partial vin yet, so it wasn't an option to replace it. I cut out and formed the first of the 2 patches for this side tonight.
Just seeing if you forgot about the "basket case"..... Guess not....

Yep, head south young man out of the rust belt for anything decent....

Matching vin is awesome. Should be a money maker when and if the time comes...
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