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  #15226 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2016, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boothboy View Post
I know that guy! I can't remember his last name but his first is Sparky.

BB
Yea he has some special skills as he demonstrates

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  #15227 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2016, 07:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waynep712 View Post
just helping out a friend with some brake work..

it just got way harder... somebody used grey ultra silicone as far as i can tell to glued the brake rotor to the hub... even though there are 3 bolts holding it..

my puller jaws are too narrow to line up in the holes in the side of the hat section.. i got some 1/2 x 1.5" x16" bar stock to weld side by side with coupling nuts to separate it so i can use my harmonic damper puller up the middle and some hooks of some kind will i gently bank on it..

as far as i can tell.. there are no replacement rotors easily available. but i have not measured this out out yet.
Once the caliper is removed, leave the bracket on and gently pry between the bracket and rotor until it loosens. Then remove the bracket for removal.
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  #15228 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2016, 08:54 AM
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Yeah, the silicone prevents rusting in there, but should come apart fairly easily...
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  #15229 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2016, 09:24 PM
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silicone and brake rotor 3... wayne. 0... round 4 coming up tomorrow..

i did find the rotors are available.. only 1250.00 each plus shipping from italy.

they look very much like the front rotors from a 80 BMW 733i... that is what the hydraulic brake calipers are .. front and rear. uses the front ones all the way around.

picture 3 is the best one.. it has a large hex 1/2-13 nut welded to the side of a 1/2-13 coupling nut... that fits thru the hole in the side of the rotor hat really well... the thickness of the grade 8 bolts is actually some springs i picked up so the puller legs did not slide around while i was trying to get the puller tight.

i have an OTC wheel hub puller.. with 5 legs... i think i will dig that out and try that. i have enough extra coupling nuts and an extra pair of large hex nuts to do it.. pulling on all 4 holes..
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  #15230 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2016, 09:50 PM
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About this time I think I would get out my rosebud torch and a BFH and go to work on it..tighten the puller real tight heat the rotor and a good size wallop with the hammer.. Should the guy who did that come around there would be a bit of discussion over this one..

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  #15231 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2016, 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by OneMoreTime View Post
About this time I think I would get out my rosebud torch and a BFH and go to work on it..tighten the puller real tight heat the rotor and a good size wallop with the hammer.. Should the guy who did that come around there would be a bit of discussion over this one..

Sam

i am NOT going to wack it other than light taps with the hammer. i did have the hot air gun blasting it for 20 minutes until it started to smoke.. with the tension on it and light rapping with the 3 pound hammer..

i have had so many people tell me.. just beat the rotor off with a sledge hammer and pop a pair of new ones on.. that's only a $2,500+ option. if it does not come off with the OTC puller tomorrow.. i am going to search out a mobile brake guy with an on the car rotor lathe. i only need a light cut to restore parallel surfaces.. i called one guy referred to me today.. he does mobile brake rotor refinishing.. i ask him which machine he used.. will it go that close to the ground.. clearance issues with the garage door opener and the roof. he said he uses a hand held disc grinder to resurface them.. i wish i had an old style phone instead of cell phone as it might have hurt his ear more when i slammed the phone receiver down.
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  #15232 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2016, 10:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waynep712 View Post
silicone and brake rotor 3... wayne. 0... round 4 coming up tomorrow..

i did find the rotors are available.. only 1250.00 each plus shipping from italy.

they look very much like the front rotors from a 80 BMW 733i... that is what the hydraulic brake calipers are .. front and rear. uses the front ones all the way around.

picture 3 is the best one.. it has a large hex 1/2-13 nut welded to the side of a 1/2-13 coupling nut... that fits thru the hole in the side of the rotor hat really well... the thickness of the grade 8 bolts is actually some springs i picked up so the puller legs did not slide around while i was trying to get the puller tight.

i have an OTC wheel hub puller.. with 5 legs... i think i will dig that out and try that. i have enough extra coupling nuts and an extra pair of large hex nuts to do it.. pulling on all 4 holes..
Maybe dumb question....OK, 2 dumb questions.

1) are you sure there isn't something else holding this on like set screws in those 4 holes ?

2) have you tried researching how to remove them on-line ? I have no idea what you are working on to help with that.
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  #15233 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2016, 10:51 PM
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It sure looks plenty stubborn there, Wayne. May the pulling force be with you. Stand clear when that thing does come loose, you don't want to be wearing it!

Worked on my gallery some today plus more journal scribblins, think I hit the upload limit for now. Wups, finish later.
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  #15234 (permalink)  
Old 01-28-2016, 01:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
Maybe dumb question....OK, 2 dumb questions.

1) are you sure there isn't something else holding this on like set screws in those 4 holes ?

2) have you tried researching how to remove them on-line ? I have no idea what you are working on to help with that.
it's a lambo countach. 5000s fuel injected model.. 12 valve. not 24 valve.

this started out with a parking brake pad check.. as the parking brake was not functional.. the car kept rolling out of the garage.. the car had been in the body shop for at least 5 months .. its still only partly painted... there are electrical issues i am working on. and the parking brake issue was just something that could not get done the way it was parked before. with it jacked up in the air doing brake work i cannot get the doors open far enough to work on the fuse box wiring. . the doors hit the garage door closer and the new cross beam in the garage. somebody routed the parking brake cable under the frame tubes and rear control arms.. it was smashed flat by improper jack stand or floor jack use.. at some point the crossmember that the parking brake cable casings mount to was ripped half way off... that bracket got welded back on today.. when the cross member was ripped off. the parking brake cables were fully applied.. i will do some grinding to clean up the welds. i have not looked at it yet.. and a quick shot of paint and reinstallation of the crossmember. this is a tube chassis car. and when assembled. it will be a driver.. not a show car..

there is no help other that bigger and stronger pullers.. something will give.

hopefully not the hub flange.. this is just venting on my part.. sharing.

oh and once again .. the bumper as the car was returned from the painter. was only held on by a single screw.. it just sort of wobbles.. but that is ok.. eventually i will get around to fixing the wiring to the passing lights, the sagging leather hinge in the heater blower flap.. the pop up headlights need diodes as far as i can tell. the car gets all blinky when the headlights pop up.

i did finally also hang the only full wiring diagram on the wall today.. its 9 feet long and 3 feet high.. worst part.. its for a different version. and written in italian.. where green is V for verde.. A is light blue , B is white for blanco. N is black for noir, G is yellow for gallo/chicken. it just gets worse from there.

an a previous person working on the car unplugged stuff and plugged it in where ever he decided it might work. told the owner the heater and ac would never work as the car does not have enough power to run them. and that he should just live without. he told me on his last drive in it that it blew harder than it ever has in the years he had owned it. there are still dozens of little things to do.. at least i can work on the brakes laying down.. really bad knees.

oh.. picture #3 with the screwdriver works really well.. just need more pull..
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  #15235 (permalink)  
Old 01-28-2016, 07:16 AM
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This excerpt is from an article in a Hemmings from '07 and may not be relevant anymore. Worth a shot to try to contact one of them before something breaks.

In your pics, I'm almost thinking the "shaft" is part of the rotor or attached behind the web somehow and you are pulling on an assembly ?? The puller you have should be big enough already to pull most anything apart and it hasn't budged ? Need to look deeper for some other form of attachment.

" Spare parts can be scarce, and even need to be manufactured or machined from scratch in some cases, so hooking up with an experienced mechanic or restorer is absolutely vital for any potential Countach owner, even with labor charges that average $100 hourly. We spoke with two of the longest-established ones in the United States, George Evans of Evans Automotive in Columbus, Ohio, and Al Burtoni of Milano Imports in Gilroy, California."

evans auto home

New Lamborghini, Bentley, Rolls-Royce Cars | Fields Motorcars Orlando

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  #15236 (permalink)  
Old 01-28-2016, 09:05 AM
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Don't know if this will help.You apparently have to join to retrieve the info. That would be up to you but there is a article on rotor removal for your Lambo. Let us know if you decide to persue this route.

BB

How Do You Remove Back Rotors On A 1988 Lamborghini Countach | Catelvis.com
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  #15237 (permalink)  
Old 01-28-2016, 09:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
This excerpt is from an article in a Hemmings from '07 and may not be relevant anymore. Worth a shot to try to contact one of them before something breaks.

In your pics, I'm almost thinking the "shaft" is part of the rotor or attached behind the web somehow and you are pulling on an assembly ?? The puller you have should be big enough already to pull most anything apart and it hasn't budged ? Need to look deeper for some other form of attachment.

" Spare parts can be scarce, and even need to be manufactured or machined from scratch in some cases, so hooking up with an experienced mechanic or restorer is absolutely vital for any potential Countach owner, even with labor charges that average $100 hourly. We spoke with two of the longest-established ones in the United States, George Evans of Evans Automotive in Columbus, Ohio, and Al Burtoni of Milano Imports in Gilroy, California."

evans auto home

New Lamborghini, Bentley, Rolls-Royce Cars | Fields Motorcars Orlando

lambov12.com

i forgot to mention i have been in contact with a chad over at http://lamborghinionly.com/

just looking at the cuts in the sides of the rotor hat section they seem to be designed to pull... and i had that thing smoking hot with my hot air gun..

you can see the first picture for a better look at the puller. today.. i make 2 more adapters... some more grade 8 bolts.. stacks of washers and if i can find it my OTC HUB puller that i use for Dodge tapered axle hubs.
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  #15238 (permalink)  
Old 01-28-2016, 09:31 AM
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Got the skirts removed from another fender for my brother's Crosley project. DAMN that metal is thick, it was a work out, no kidding during and after doing this I felt like I had been jogging!

Brian
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  #15239 (permalink)  
Old 01-28-2016, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waynep712 View Post
my puller jaws are too narrow to line up in the holes in the side of the hat section.. i got some 1/2 x 1.5" x16" bar stock to weld side by side with coupling nuts to separate it so i can use my harmonic damper puller up the middle and some hooks of some kind will i gently bank on it..
I made a similar puller many years ago to pull Mercruiser outdrives or something apart... two 1/4" x 2" flat steel bars about 16" long welded together in center leaving a square hole for a big 1" bolt so I could pull just about anything apart... saved my butt many times on projects... last one was a stock steel wheel with too small a center hole severely stuck on the hub of the '87 GTA TransAm...

Do you have the wheel bearings out of that Lambo hub and the nut off? Or trying to get the rotor off the hub? Does the rotor come off the hub in that direction?
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  #15240 (permalink)  
Old 01-28-2016, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waynep712 View Post
silicone and brake rotor 3... wayne. 0... round 4 coming up tomorrow..

i did find the rotors are available.. only 1250.00 each plus shipping from italy.

they look very much like the front rotors from a 80 BMW 733i... that is what the hydraulic brake calipers are .. front and rear. uses the front ones all the way around.

picture 3 is the best one.. it has a large hex 1/2-13 nut welded to the side of a 1/2-13 coupling nut... that fits thru the hole in the side of the rotor hat really well... the thickness of the grade 8 bolts is actually some springs i picked up so the puller legs did not slide around while i was trying to get the puller tigh


i have an OTC wheel hub puller.. with 5 legs... i think i will dig that out and try that. i have enough extra coupling nuts and an extra pair of large hex nuts to do it.. pulling on all 4 holes..

what is this car
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