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  #20506 (permalink)  
Old 09-11-2017, 08:56 PM
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Last Friday I stopped at a restoration parts house and picked up an aluminum radiator for the '54. It's a front mount for a '55 6 cylinder car. I'll have to make the brackets to mount it to the '54 core support.



2 rows of 1" tubes



also the shroud, fan and relay set up


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  #20507 (permalink)  
Old 09-11-2017, 09:02 PM
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Oh... also... I don't own a shot bag but we have some custom made (upholstery, vinyl?) pouches with handles that have bags of landscaping gravel in them. Normally used as ballast for bare bodies on dollies, sometimes I use them like shot bags. Did that today some. And of course no fabbed part would be complete unless its been taken to a corner of the frame rack for that one odd spot where only it will do, to back up a hammer. Hopefully that patch won't look so much like hamburger after I finish.
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  #20508 (permalink)  
Old 09-11-2017, 09:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
It only happens if you don't need that piece for the other side!

Well John, I... just stared at it awhile and no grand idea surfaced, so I did a pattern just to get an outside cut line roughed in then cut a new piece. Eyeballed the contour lines from pattern over onto steel, picked up a little 2x4 and 3 lb plastic dead blow mallet and went to the 200+lb century old heirloom. Lined my desired contour spot up with the horn end of the rectangular anvil top then tilted it so one end was supported by the horn, laid the board where I wanted to create a step, and BANG! Piece hits the floor, everybody looks.

Took three of those licks to roughly establish the deep square. The small bench vise came into play, albeit abuse, when I spread the jaws and laid the work piece over them to bump the unsupported span between the jaws into shape. No foul. Pugsy will love this part... in some areas I used my light slapper like a chisel, beating on the tip of the handle to sharpen bends. Turned it on it's side and more abuse followed. I have two.

Before any of the pie cuts shown were made trimmed edge material not shown was tortured into submission using the shrinky stretchy. End of the day, the rearmost couple inches just wasn't doing what I wanted so since the rest of the patch was close (may never be quite as deeply contoured as the original) I screwed it to the rusty old well and tacked what looked alright. Hopefully I can chase it the rest of the way in the morning. John, thanks for the encouragement, sir.
I think it is remarkably well "beat into submission" .... Pretty cool. I would have ended up with a lot more cuts in it.

John
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  #20509 (permalink)  
Old 09-11-2017, 09:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
I think it is remarkably well "beat into submission" .... Pretty cool. I would have ended up with a lot more cuts in it.

John
Much obliged. Yep theres only one sheet there. I thought I should have finished it today but theres not much to go. For what its worth, I did go stare at the bead roller dies before I started... ended up bench racing for a few instead. My mind did not hop right to a way to use that tool for this but by now that board and mallet jump right into my hands. Yawn... the barking neigh situation appears to be resolved thank goodness and I'm resting better than I have all summer. A-mazing how many ways that can hurt a guy.
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  #20510 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2017, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
That's good news on your lid project AND joint replacement, RIP. Being a single man in a 3 bdrm home, let me just say find a place that doesn't come with more maintainence than you're willing to handle. Spending half your off time doing chores sucks. If you're counting your blessings and there's a woman in there, she counts for more than one blessing.

Bet you guys thought I was done patching the Biscayne job up. Yep, naw. Wheelwells. Had to scratch my noggin and chuckle for a few before diving into this task. Not sure if it was Monday fog or the complex contour but I felt a little lost as to where to begin. Of course I bent the flange the wrong way first. It should come together fine, I think.

Cool shifter, John!
Dam IDJ, it all starts out you fix one rusty panel and then another and the next thing you know that's the only kind of work you get and the jobs get worse and worser and you'll never see another new panel again. Looks right to me, fun isn't it.
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  #20511 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2017, 09:01 AM
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[QUOTE=idrivejunk;4295521]Much obliged. Yep theres only one sheet there. I thought I should have finished it today but theres not much to go. For what its worth, I did go stare at the bead roller dies before I started... ended up bench racing for a few instead. My mind did not hop right to a way to use that tool for this but by now that board and mallet jump right into my hands. Yawn... the barking neigh situation appears to be resolved thank goodness and I'm resting better than I have all summer. A-mazing how many ways that can hurt a guy. [/QUOTE
That looks like a tuff one. It usually takes me an hour of looking, drinking coffee and a smoke or two to get my head right.
Its very important when you have complicated curves and bends to get your head right and let the artist out. Well for me any ways. Otherwise when I spend an hour or two making something backwards I stomp it into the ground and call it a day.
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  #20512 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2017, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
RIP, I never use flux core wire for sheet metal. I have also never welded with anything but .023 or .024. I can't tell you if .030 is harder to use. I just don't have any experience with it.

John
.030 is a little harder to use but not much You have to slow the wire down and the heat up then dial it in. I like the thinner wire too but welding thicker metal really uses it up fast. I keep some 035 for the thick stuff and 024 for everything else.
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  #20513 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2017, 10:18 AM
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I've used .023 in the past, but I found I needed to speed the wire up more than .030 to keep it from flaming out in the nozzle tip, which many times, has necessitate a tip change when I'm already not in the best mood from the burn-back. Now I just keep .030 in the machine. I can screw up any thickness or alloy just fine with just 1 wire size. My machine is a Miller Auto 180 and I gave up on the auto settings a long time ago. I like to select the speed and amps as I go and find the "sweet" spot. My dials are infinite, so no preset positions I have to choose from. I can get it set pretty nice for different situations.

The one thing about welding thin, rusty metal is, nothing on the machine is a miracle setting. You're going to burn thru instantly on that crap until you get back to metal able to hold the arc long enough to build back too.

Another thing IDJ touched on in one of his posts is, make certain your ground clamp is on clean metal, because a poor ground seems to feed back into the wire and cause burn-thru even worse. If I have a lot of welding around rusty metal, I take a 5/16-1/4" bolt about 1" long, grind a clean area on the panel away from where I need to work and tack weld that sucker on for the ground clamp jaw.
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  #20514 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2017, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
Dam IDJ, it all starts out you fix one rusty panel and then another and the next thing you know that's the only kind of work you get and the jobs get worse and worser and you'll never see another new panel again. Looks right to me, fun isn't it.
Luckily this part of it is what suits me best so I do enjoy myself at work. That creative problem solving mode is fun time but a valuable skill. A couple butts and some peace n quiet does help bring focus, and I think tunes can also be real important.

I have the patch welded up. Gonna bring the flanges in a little closer to avoid interference when fitted... see pic with old part screwed to new-


No straightening done yet in pics.

First pic is 22 ga setting on left, 18 on right, same rig. Pits ahoy! If both sides are clean 18 it doesn't fully penetrate.
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  #20515 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2017, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
I've used .023 in the past, but I found I needed to speed the wire up more than .030 to keep it from flaming out in the nozzle tip, which many times, has necessitate a tip change when I'm already not in the best mood from the burn-back. Now I just keep .030 in the machine. I can screw up any thickness or alloy just fine with just 1 wire size. My machine is a Miller Auto 180 and I gave up on the auto settings a long time ago. I like to select the speed and amps as I go and find the "sweet" spot. My dials are infinite, so no preset positions I have to choose from. I can get it set pretty nice for different situations.

The one thing about welding thin, rusty metal is, nothing on the machine is a miracle setting. You're going to burn thru instantly on that crap until you get back to metal able to hold the arc long enough to build back too.

Another thing IDJ touched on in one of his posts is, make certain your ground clamp is on clean metal, because a poor ground seems to feed back into the wire and cause burn-thru even worse. If I have a lot of welding around rusty metal, I take a 5/16-1/4" bolt about 1" long, grind a clean area on the panel away from where I need to work and tack weld that sucker on for the ground clamp jaw.
Not a bad idea, Mitch. I have bolted the dent puller ground before, that machine needs more than a clamp.
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  #20516 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2017, 02:25 PM
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John,
The wire I was talking about is trade name "Twenty Gauge". It is a wire that was supposed to be the all perfect wire for light sheet metal. It is used with 75-25 Gas. The theory if I remember right was it had a special powered steel core that when melted would help with the leveling of the weld. That is my layman's understanding. I have found that when welding 16 Ga it welds real nice. It also welds pretty good on clean non rusty 18 Ga. Get close to pitted steel and it just blows the crap out of the pits.

My Welder is a Miller-Matic 185 Mig. and I am running 75 25 mix. I do have a flux core little welder I got from my brothers estate. I haven't played much with it.

I like the suggestions everyone has made. I went to town today and picked up a 10 Lb Spool of 023 ER70S6. I may go out side today and do a few runs on a test piece of clean steel and I have a good piece of the pitted steel that was cut away so I will use it to simulate my deck lid shell and do a little practice.

The ground on my welder became highly suspect when the electrode wire would stick on start intermittently. The ground clamp looked terrible! I cleaned it up and the sticking was less pronounced but was still there. I think I may bold the ground to the steel also. I started looking close at this welding wire. It is a black wire not coated. I found some tiny rust spots on this wire. More suspicions and I checked the feed roller and idler both coated with a blackish reddish layer of rust and dust from the "Twenty Ga" wire and rust spots on the wire. So that was the last move on the welder .

I am going to clean the feed roller and all of the mechanical and of course change the tip to a 023. and load the new wire. I expect this wire to work much better just because it is new. So we shall see, Thanks again for the tips and it is off to the shop.

Last edited by Rip VW; 09-12-2017 at 02:29 PM. Reason: I never make sense
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  #20517 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2017, 02:45 PM
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you have to change out the liner often if you weld a lot. if your rollers are nasty chances are the liner is nasty also. any coated wire will make it worse faster.
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  #20518 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2017, 06:05 PM
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Done with that patch and the boss liked the looks of it. Could have fussed more over it but hey its a rusty wheelwell. More to do on those. Anyway hey, color on the Biscayne. Top is white and pearled and masked, red is from PPG's bright and bold custom solid color selection and the final decision on how many coats of which pearl will go over the red is pending. My vote is for two coats of fine russet, it looks redder than the single coat of sunset red pearl. To me, on a test card indoors. We shall see...
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  #20519 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2017, 09:26 PM
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I came home to find Nick with the cherry picker out and ready to put his motor on a stand. He and I got it done so he has taken the first step in getting the Falcon V8ed.

Brian
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  #20520 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2017, 09:42 PM
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I managed to get out to the shop for a bit so I swapped in the 023 I picked up this morning and a new 023 tip into my machine. It has been cleaned good and was ready to go.

I grabbed two 4X4 pieces of new 18 Ga and butted them together and put a quick series of tacks to hold and looked at the weld. I messed with the settings and found a good setting where I was getting good penetration and them layed a real nice bead down along the seam. Another good weld. I then layed a series of beads over the scrap and got the machine real happy. Some of my best welding..

After feeling elated as to how the welder was working I decided to try and add that piece of rusty scrap. it had been clean before and I did not want to grind any more material off the piece for fear of making it too thin.

I butted the rusty stuff up against the clean new steel and made a series of 5 tacks. The result was 2 perfect tacks and 3 new holes in the old steel. It is a real hit or miss business. I am going to play a bit more tomorrow and see if I can fine tune this this wire.

I am convinced now that my machine is working good now. this 023 is much easier to run on thin steel than that 030 was.

Funny thing, I had my machine on 1 and about 25 on the speed when I was running the 030 wire and on clean new steel. Standard start point on my machine was called for setting 2 and about 25 using smaller wire. . I am real close on the optimum settings for the good stuff, however I need to temper it a little I think for the rusty stuff..

My thoughts on the 023 change, I am loving this 023. It lays a smaller flatter tack and if I want to run a bead it makes a nice smaller flatter bead. I was getting almost perfect penetration and it flowed smooth. I feel more comfortable as it is a snap to get a nice weld.

Tomorrow I will give it a good run and see how it works. All you guys have been great in helping me get the upper hand on this monster..
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