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  #20611 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2017, 05:23 PM
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The Raiders game ended and I am reminded that I have to get going as we have a family concert night tonight with Hall & Oats and Tears For Fears and I have to get going. But before I did, wham, ran out to the garage and spent my 5 minutes with more fine tuning of the patch and sand blasting the back side and the cowl area and applying some etching primer.

Sorry, no photos, you will have to believe me.

Brian

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  #20612 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2017, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
When I replaced inner wheel houses on a '57 Chev wagon a couple years ago, I brought my S/Stretchers into Centerline. Dave, the owner, couldn't believe his eyes, how the metal just curved around and made shapes. He bought a set soon after and has tinkered with them, but he is too heavy handed and impatient to make small adjustments...

My E wheel is in pieces, up on a pallet in the racking. I stumbled around it for 2 years and never took the time to learn anything. I'm still too willing to spend money on a premade panel that I have to spend a day getting to fit...
Those jaws do freak people out don't they? First time Mike showed me, I had visions and... well, as you know... flange strips solve everything!

I can tell already that the wheel can't be manhandled or you will screw right straight up. I just about ruined the Camaro roof section for the 33 with one pass. I was reflecting on that job the other day and realized it may have been better / easier to put the patch under the roof and support it rather than having the patch on top. I made it a butt weld but feel like it might have worked better that way. Random thought there.

Nothing wrong with placing value on your time and buying the best parts you can. That works for you and you do nice work. Guys like you who can do gears and seals and bearings and blast and paint stuff, swap tires and section panels and haul giant things and balance multiple builds... blow me away. I would if I could. Just keep doing what you are doing. Some day a need will arise and you'll fire up the forklift.
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  #20613 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2017, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
I put a slip roll and a metal brake into about the same catagorie. They both bend metal but do not form it. Don't get me wrong, A slip roll is great if you are making a hot rod hood but it is not going to give you form.

If you are making a door skin pr quarter panel, it is frequently helpful to shape the panel in one plane first. That could be done with a slip roll but in reality I usually do it in a quicker and cruder manner.

Remember, The English Wheel and plannishing hammer can only stretch the metal. They can not shrink it. If you get the panel in shape one direction and then raise the compound curve into it, the panel will be much easier to control. Also, if you over stretch it you will either have to heat shrink it or raise the rest of the panel to correct the high spot......Not what you want to have to do. That is unless you have a power hammer or other high dollar suffisticated equipment at you disposal.

John


Duly noted sir, about the roller. It was there and I tried it and am glad to know your take on it.

A few years ago I worked on a unibody 62 F100 which was owned by a fab shop owner. They had made large sections of bedside and a whole tailgate in the manner you describe although nowhere near as smoothly as your pic. It went to SEMA and was in Truckin' so it turned out OK. I am indeed fortunate to have at my disposal the array of tools at the shop, but get what you're saying.... best to sneak up on it. Forming one direction first makes sense. Before the Cat smoke clears I will likely improvise a tipping die. Having more help now in the shop may relieve some of the rushed feeling so I can focus on expanding our capability a little.

But I still wonder, if the lever just spins round and round on our english wheel, is it broken? Seems like it should lock. It does move the wheel up and down it just doesn't stay up. Explain like I'm five please
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  #20614 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2017, 06:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
The next time you walk up to the wheel, take a piece of metal and put masking tape around the edges about 2" in. This will stop the wheels from hitting the edges. Put in the lowest crown anvil. Start going back and forth in the middle. Do more passes there and gradually less towards the outer edges. This will give you a basic idea.

When you're done, take off the tape and make the same panel flat again. Post next year when you finish.
This will give you a real knowledge gaining work out.

How much crown you wanna see? (with Yosimite Sam voice and stance)
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  #20615 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2017, 07:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregs04.5 View Post
The culprit here is most likely the sensor in the steering column. I had a 97 Sierra that had the same symptoms, replaced the sensor, which requires disconnecting the lower portion in the cab, to slide the sensor off. Took me maybe 45 minutes, and variable rate power steering was alive once again.

FWIW, Greg.
Can you tell me what the proper name of the sensor is ? I'd like to check on the price of it and also the replacement procedure. FWIW. Had to take the horn button off of the steering wheel to clean the contacts. Had a horn that did NOT work most of the time. Took most of my time trying to get to the spring clips that hold the button on. None of the videos mentioned having to use a screwdriver bent to an L at the end. Once I figured out what I had to use, it was a piece of cake.
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  #20616 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2017, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
Duly noted sir, about the roller. It was there and I tried it and am glad to know your take on it.

A few years ago I worked on a unibody 62 F100 which was owned by a fab shop owner. They had made large sections of bedside and a whole tailgate in the manner you describe although nowhere near as smoothly as your pic. It went to SEMA and was in Truckin' so it turned out OK. I am indeed fortunate to have at my disposal the array of tools at the shop, but get what you're saying.... best to sneak up on it. Forming one direction first makes sense. Before the Cat smoke clears I will likely improvise a tipping die. Having more help now in the shop may relieve some of the rushed feeling so I can focus on expanding our capability a little.

But I still wonder, if the lever just spins round and round on our english wheel, is it broken? Seems like it should lock. It does move the wheel up and down it just doesn't stay up. Explain like I'm five please
You are right about the lever. It should be a quick release lever with a stop so you can remove the work without changing the setting. Mine does not have one nor do i particularly care. Just not a big deal. One thing I did do was wrap a piece of masking tape around one spoke of the adjusting wheel, a piece of electrical tape around another and a piece of green tape around the third. By paying attention to the color and position of the tape I can always set the pressure back to the same place.....Crude but works.

John
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  #20617 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2017, 04:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
How much crown you wanna see? (with Yosimite Sam voice and stance)
Any amount, preferably less, which is fair and constant, not wavy.

Less crown, I found, is the hardest.
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  #20618 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2017, 06:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
Any amount, preferably less, which is fair and constant, not wavy.

Less crown, I found, is the hardest.
So make it oil can a little then un oil can it? Using only the wheel? Sounds like a good exercise I might get away with doing while on the clock. I'll give it a shot.

John, marking the adjusting wheel makes sense. I'm thinking numbers with a Sharpie.

Thanks metal heads. Time to start another week of it.
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  #20619 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2017, 11:39 AM
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Ready for epoxy now, on the 59 Pontiac lid skin.
Ready as its ever gonna be, anyway.
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  #20620 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2017, 02:07 PM
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I dropped my 36 roadster off to have a new top put on today. Barb and I are excited about that.

Had just enough time to get a few bends done on the Buick hood latch support.

John

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  #20621 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2017, 06:00 PM
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New part looks so far so good, John. What's up with the top? That's a fairly big deal, eh? Same color and stuff? I smell disfrugalitarianism and wish you would have dropped off your chairs also.

Had a scrap of metal in my hand first thing today and got within a couple steps of the Horror Fright wheel. Boss walked up. But me and Footloose got to fix Pontiacs today so

By the time epoxy was drying on the lid parts there was a couple hours left so I tackled the Bronco's last metal task, opening up a tight tailgate gap. It was overlapping before, and last week Footloose helped me roll this top corner of the body out. His foot may have been loose but he is a good hand. Anyway I had marked the cut then and it was approved today. So I did a quick and nasty thing and left a dab of mud space to grow on. Of course along the cut there were two double layer areas, heavier gauge behind. A guy put epoxy on the cab floors today also.
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  #20622 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2017, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
New part looks so far so good, John. What's up with the top? That's a fairly big deal, eh? Same color and stuff? I smell disfrugalitarianism and wish you would have dropped off your chairs also.

Had a scrap of metal in my hand first thing today and got within a couple steps of the Horror Fright wheel. Boss walked up. But me and Footloose got to fix Pontiacs today so

By the time epoxy was drying on the lid parts there was a couple hours left so I tackled the Bronco's last metal task, opening up a tight tailgate gap. It was overlapping before, and last week Footloose helped me roll this top corner of the body out. His foot may have been loose but he is a good hand. Anyway I had marked the cut then and it was approved today. So I did a quick and nasty thing and left a dab of mud space to grow on. Of course along the cut there were two double layer areas, heavier gauge behind. A guy put epoxy on the cab floors today also.
The top on the roadster is about ten years old and I have never been completely satisfied with it. One of the zipper seams showed in the irear curtain. There were no pads from the rear bow down either. The old top was hand made but the one I am having installed is a factory sewn top. Joe Henry in Fort Oglethorpe, Ga is installing it. He is very good with tops and I am excited he was willing to work me in.

Not one of my most frugal decisions for sure but the car deserves it.

Hopefully you get a chance to play with the E-wheel. It will frustrate you but you will enjoy it. I actually don't use mine a lot but when you do need it, it is great to have.

Do you guys have an air planishing hammer?

John
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  #20623 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2017, 07:10 PM
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Yes we do. And yeah even if a guy is a wheel ninja, he still has to grind and sand and eat dirt most of the time. If you and Barb are pleased with the new top job, taking that plunge ought to be worth it. Reckon you'll have to get your smoky burnout fix off the truck till the Ford is back. Don't mind any Ford cracks I may make, I'm just a supporter of healthy brand rivalry. I don't think theres been any new Pontiac jokes thought up since they cast their last V8.
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Old 09-18-2017, 09:21 PM
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Didn't get anything done on the truck but worked with Nick pulling a few more parts off his motor, he's going to change the timing chain so the harmonic balancer had to come off, and the oil pan to check on that, looked good. I also got a little project done that I will show you tomorrow.


Brian
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Old 09-19-2017, 06:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adantessr View Post
Can you tell me what the proper name of the sensor is ? I'd like to check on the price of it and also the replacement procedure. FWIW. Had to take the horn button off of the steering wheel to clean the contacts. Had a horn that did NOT work most of the time. Took most of my time trying to get to the spring clips that hold the button on. None of the videos mentioned having to use a screwdriver bent to an L at the end. Once I figured out what I had to use, it was a piece of cake.
It was 15 years ago when I did this on my Sierra, but a quick search on Rockauto turned up a "steering wheel position sensor" Dorman part# 905510

Good luck! Greg
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