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  #21001 (permalink)  
Old 10-22-2017, 05:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
Lacquer thinner removes Sharpie and permanent markers.
That is correct.

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  #21002 (permalink)  
Old 10-22-2017, 06:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
Lacquer thinner removes Sharpie and permanent markers.

I usually use brake cleaner on bare metal.

John
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  #21003 (permalink)  
Old 10-22-2017, 07:36 AM
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We once sent out metal with permanent marker on it to get powder coated. What a disaster. It showed right thru.
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  #21004 (permalink)  
Old 10-22-2017, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
The only problem with using a Sharpie is that crap will bleed through ANY paint you put on there. I have a hard time using one because of a few horror stories years ago. I use an awl and just scratch the metal. Don't get me wrong, I still use one a bit but usually only on something that will be throw out like tape or something like that.

Brian
It comes right off with thinner or W&G remover I hope you sanded cleaned the metal before you primed or bleading through will be the least of your worries. I also go through a lot of sharpies.
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  #21005 (permalink)  
Old 10-22-2017, 09:22 AM
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The w&g remover doesn't dissolve Sharpie very well for me. I bet rip-tide knows better than to leave machinist's dye or felt tip ink on stuff to be painted anyway. I bet the block he is making will be bare or polished, too. But while we are on the subject... If any of you have been seeing my pics for awhile, you have probably seen me use orange spray paint. Like when a patch is fitted all except final trimming of a seam to be butted, and it still barely overlaps. I have gotten more confident with tacking then trimming and working with a gap the width of a cutoff wheel (gives me sure-fire penetration) but in a scary stakes scenario where its best to exactly mate the edges, I will stick to screws and spray paint the edge at the seam, so the patch's edge is exactly marked on the panel being repaired. In situations where I want zero gap, scribing and or spray paint and lots of times on and off with the panel is my safest bet. But on inner structure or areas less important, I have been known to scribe by scoring with a cutoff wheel too. Lots of optional methods. It's whatever I reach for on a given day I reckon.
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  #21006 (permalink)  
Old 10-22-2017, 10:02 AM
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Had a good one today guy brought a 2000 Dodge Durango in said wanted to fix up for son. Hadn?t run in a year. Drove it to me said was getting hot. Opened system empty. Filled up no leaks from external sources checked oil not on dipstick added 2.5 quarts to read correctly no ps leaks that he originally came for. Pulled tranny dipstick. Found missing coolant. Smh evidentially had more water than coolant had gotten cold enough cracked radiator trans cooler internally and pushed all that coolant/water into tranny. So now we got way more to do
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  #21007 (permalink)  
Old 10-22-2017, 01:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
We once sent out metal with permanent marker on it to get powder coated. What a disaster. It showed right thru.
It is amazing how it will come through! If you painted white acrylic enamel over it and walked out of the booth you would swear someone came in the next day and wrote on the new paint before you came in!

All I am saying guys is you can plan on doing all the cleaning and all that, but to eliminate one issue that could cause problems is eliminating one issue that could cause problems! We have enough things we have little to no control over or just mess up, to eliminate one of those helps us. That is all I am saying.

Brian
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  #21008 (permalink)  
Old 10-22-2017, 02:17 PM
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Little more done

Today, I got my alternator bracket, alternator and pulley, shorts water pump and pulley and crankshaft (balancer) pulley installed. Have to get a swivel thermostat housing next. Next step is to get belts and hoses then on to start "plumbing" my brake system. Slow but sure, it's coming along. The 72 year "young" body ain't as fast as it used to be.
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  #21009 (permalink)  
Old 10-23-2017, 07:11 PM
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Today I continued cutting Cat tail... getting trunk floor all peeled out and started fitting the new pans and planning gas tank and body mount stuff. I figured it needed these table legs before work on the braces gets going.

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  #21010 (permalink)  
Old 10-23-2017, 08:10 PM
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Love that anvil!

Brian
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  #21011 (permalink)  
Old 10-23-2017, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
Love that anvil!

Brian
I would need a cherry picker to move that thing.
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  #21012 (permalink)  
Old 10-23-2017, 09:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
I would need a cherry picker to move that thing.

Nah. That's carrying size. At least before all my back problems started it was.

I used to carry around chevy small block engine blocks and pick them out of a car trunk. At 160
body weight.
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  #21013 (permalink)  
Old 10-23-2017, 09:31 PM
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You can see on the floor how I scooted it around all day, using it as a stepping and sitting stool. My roll around stool is too tall to go under. My shin tells me Grandpa's anvil ought to be a bright color. The thing outweighs me by 20-25 pounds and I can get it off the floor a little but why? A wiry teenager carried it across the shop once and he couldn't have been more than a buck and a half. 207 is what the casting says. It's a town anvil, no ring to it. I can still handle a bare Pontiac 400 block. Barely. Airbag messed up my grip so I don't trust myself on heavy lifting for more than a very short time.
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  #21014 (permalink)  
Old 10-24-2017, 05:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adantessr View Post
Nah. That's carrying size. At least before all my back problems started it was.

I used to carry around chevy small block engine blocks and pick them out of a car trunk. At 160
body weight.

Hmmm, what could have caused the back problem,, LOL
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  #21015 (permalink)  
Old 10-24-2017, 06:01 AM
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I need an opinion,,i put a new starter on my forklift and it does same as the old one Bendix kiks in but starter don't turn,,i replaced boyh battery cables with welding leads and copper ends ,,replaced ignition switch and wiring and added a seprate starter botton ,hooked to battery and straight to small wire on solenoid thru push button,,i removed starter (4 hours ) and took it back when they bench test it it works fine, brought it back and reinstalled it ,same as before,,hooked charger to it and when charger showed 100% charge I tried it again ,same as before.

I replaced I wire at a time so no wires are crossed,,Any ideas.
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