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  #21136 (permalink)  
Old 10-31-2017, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
Here's my today... not terribly proud of it but I learned plenty.
Last pic belongs at the top but this is the best I can do via phone.

Looks damn good to me!

Brian

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  #21137 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2017, 04:33 AM
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idrivejunk theres nought wrong with that man, a lot of guys would be proud if they could do as good, me included.
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  #21138 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2017, 05:51 AM
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Thanks, guys. I never really know if I have overlooked the easy way. First thing I learned was that uniformity and number of cuts has much to do with appearance. I would like to be starting on pans at the end of the week but won't make that at this rate.
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  #21139 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2017, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
Thanks, guys. I never really know if I have overlooked the easy way. First thing I learned was that uniformity and number of cuts has much to do with appearance. I would like to be starting on pans at the end of the week but won't make that at this rate.
You could probably bump that tube out on a shop press.
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  #21140 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2017, 10:35 AM
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You could probably bump that tube out on a shop press.
That is the one thing we are currently without. But that was a first thought.
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  #21141 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2017, 10:52 AM
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Well, fun with Andrew's car has come to an end for this year. Still LOTS to do next year...complete Detroit Speed rear suspension swap, tunnel repair at shifter, correct bucket seat brackets, and a complete wire harness for the entire car. Shouldn't take more than a couple weeks...

I had my expert brake bleeding partner help last night and got the last item checked off the list. All ready to load up.



I had to back it out and turn it around, so may as well take a "spin" around the block to make sure everything is good...

I took it easy as, the diff is a quart low, but as I turned back onto my street, I had a twitch in my right leg that seemed to push the throttle down a little further and I can attest the lope in the cam isn't just there to sound cool. It had no problem breaking traction with those T/A's from a roll in first...



All loaded up and snug in the shop, out of the crap weather coming. I hope the forecast is right for tomorrow and the roads are dry.



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  #21142 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2017, 04:01 PM
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I didn't do this today, or even yesterday, but on Saturday... I was over at my parent's house tinkering with my sister's dead van. It's been sitting for a bit over 5 years, dad thought it had a bad starter, and my sister gave up on it when it died on her the last time. Mom is PAST ready for it to GO AWAY. I put it up on stands and pulled the starter so dad could take it in to be tested. Meanwhile, I put one of our batteries on the charger. Dad gets back, says the starter is fine. I reinstall, put the battery in, and turn the key. Lights, bells, the grinding of the rear window wiper as it drags its way through the dirt and grime across the glass. Click, CLUNK as I turn it to start. Hmmm... Get out the dead torque wrench, a socket, and try to turn the engine over at the balancer. No joy, but I think it moved ever so slightly backwards. Hmmm... sis was having trouble with the A/C before it died 5 years ago. Compressor sounded like it was trying to eat a load of gravel. Remove belt, and everything turns great except for the compressor. Get back in van, turn key, and it lights off like it was just driven yesterday. A couple of seconds of a couple of lifters ticking, and then it quieted right down. It ran amazingly well for something with 5+ year old gas in it. Siezed compressor, not seized engine is a good thing. Now I just have to find another dead but non-seized compressor so I can put the belt back on, then we can try to get a few bucks for it instead of calling the junk yard to come get it.

Dave
You had better take a closer look. If the pulley won't turn, the problem is the pulley bearing not the compressor. The pulley freeewheeels if the A/C isn't turned on. Save the freon and borrow the tools from the parts store and just replace the bearing. It's not hard to do. I've done several. FWIW You wouldn't be the first guy that replaced the compressor , when all he needed was a pulley bearing. I'm licensed for auto a/c so you can trust me on this.
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  #21143 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2017, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by adantessr View Post
You had better take a closer look. If the pulley won't turn, the problem is the pulley bearing not the compressor. The pulley freeewheeels if the A/C isn't turned on. Save the freon and borrow the tools from the parts store and just replace the bearing. It's not hard to do. I've done several. FWIW You wouldn't be the first guy that replaced the compressor , when all he needed was a pulley bearing. I'm licensed for auto a/c so you can trust me on this.
If the pulley bearing is seized to the compressor shaft, shouldn't the compressor still turn ? Seems they both may be seized..
Since wipers were on when he turned the key on, it makes sense that the heater selector may have been in defrost mode and the compressor was running and then seized, causing the engine to stall and then not turn over...
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  #21144 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2017, 04:17 PM
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The snow got delayed, so I ran the car back quick this afternoon. Tomorrow was going to be slop. Now I have tomorrow to find my '66 Chevelle chassis, buried in the front of the shop...

And try to take the water softener apart to see if a screen is plugged or the brine valve is stuck, as we don't have soft water anymore. Unit is only 3 years old. I called the installer and the parts would be covered but I have to pay a service call fee and labor to replace the free $20 part...
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  #21145 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2017, 04:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
If the pulley bearing is seized to the compressor shaft, shouldn't the compressor still turn ? Seems they both may be seized..
Since wipers were on when he turned the key on, it makes sense that the heater selector may have been in defrost mode and the compressor was running and then seized, causing the engine to stall and then not turn over...
The compressor pulley is not attached to the comressor shaft. It is on a tube that the compressor shaft is inside of. Unless the compressor clutch is energized, the pulley will freewheel if it has a good bearing . The compressor clutch connects the pulley to the compressor. The compressor can be totally locked up and the pulley will still turn freely if the bearing isn't seized. I've replaced dozens of those bearings. Literally dozens. They use the exact same compressors on heavy equipment as on cars. Delco and Sanko to name a few.
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  #21146 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2017, 05:08 PM
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Finally got finished with body work and paint after 4 months of part time work,,already installed new crate engine ,exaust and brakes ,,so next is the interior but after 337600 miles I guess it is about time..finish the interior and the 55 will be next .

if nothing else goes wrong.
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  #21147 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2017, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adantessr View Post
You had better take a closer look. If the pulley won't turn, the problem is the pulley bearing not the compressor. The pulley freeewheeels if the A/C isn't turned on. Save the freon and borrow the tools from the parts store and just replace the bearing. It's not hard to do. I've done several. FWIW You wouldn't be the first guy that replaced the compressor , when all he needed was a pulley bearing. I'm licensed for auto a/c so you can trust me on this.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
If the pulley bearing is seized to the compressor shaft, shouldn't the compressor still turn ? Seems they both may be seized..
Since wipers were on when he turned the key on, it makes sense that the heater selector may have been in defrost mode and the compressor was running and then seized, causing the engine to stall and then not turn over...
Quote:
Originally Posted by adantessr View Post
The compressor pulley is not attached to the comressor shaft. It is on a tube that the compressor shaft is inside of. Unless the compressor clutch is energized, the pulley will freewheel if it has a good bearing . The compressor clutch connects the pulley to the compressor. The compressor can be totally locked up and the pulley will still turn freely if the bearing isn't seized. I've replaced dozens of those bearings. Literally dozens. They use the exact same compressors on heavy equipment as on cars. Delco and Sanko to name a few.
No refrigerant in the system anyway, so nothing to save. She had been driving it with no A/C for a while before the bearing siezed. The van is a '97 Olds Silhouette, so it's really not worth putting much in. We just want to be able to run it and drive it up to the road to put a "For Sale" sign in it. My friend may have one sitting in his parts pile, or at least one that I can pull a bearing out of. Dad is just going to hit it with the pressure washer to clean it up a bit. I think I'll throw in the snake skin on the wiper mechanism for free.

Thanks for the run-down on how that clutch and bearing fit together guys. You've learned me something today.

Dave
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  #21148 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2017, 07:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cozwurth View Post
No refrigerant in the system anyway, so nothing to save. She had been driving it with no A/C for a while before the bearing siezed. The van is a '97 Olds Silhouette, so it's really not worth putting much in. We just want to be able to run it and drive it up to the road to put a "For Sale" sign in it. My friend may have one sitting in his parts pile, or at least one that I can pull a bearing out of. Dad is just going to hit it with the pressure washer to clean it up a bit. I think I'll throw in the snake skin on the wiper mechanism for free.

Thanks for the run-down on how that clutch and bearing fit together guys. You've learned me something today.

Dave
Really hoping others will have read this post also. Can save literally hundreds of $$$ knowing how it works. I changed so many pulley bearings that I built my own tooling when I had access to a lathe. There is also a prescribed gap between the compressor clutch face and the front of the pulley, if you ever replace a compressor pulley bearing, you need to set this also. .020 to .030 is good.
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  #21149 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2017, 09:11 PM
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This summer I got my GTP into some flash flooding and had to do the compressor hub bearing job. Actually did mechanical work at home on my own! But yeah the parts counter lady was sure to tell me that they had the hub assembly in stock for after I mess up my original pulley and want to return the bearing. $40 vs $150 so I made it happen. Access was a pain in the neck though, and I mashed an old alternator v belt pulley completely flat doing the "press" work with a bolt.

This morning I screwed that brace in and put a fill in patch on the right wheelhouse, notched the tray support for the new brace, and stared. And stared. Suddenly my hand reached for a tape measure and my idea broke it's egg shell finally. I know how I am gonna do almost all of this now. Here are pics of the mate for that brace that I made this afternoon in about one third the time. I still think I'll use yesterday's piece, they don't match perfect but probably good enough. If not, I can tweak them easily enough. Slices spaced at 3/4" on all bends and going 1/4" onto the side was today's way and it looks much more like I envisioned. Welds were better today too but I didn't stop for pics. Ran the welder with .030 wire dry and finished with the one loaded with .035. It was probably better suited to the 14 gauge, but both did fine.

By the way, you don't need a stationary object quite as big as a frame rack, the sliced pipe bends easy. Thought I should show how I did this though. Easy to make adjustments this way. FWIW, I can stand on the hump and bounce it a little without it losing shape.


Last edited by idrivejunk; 11-01-2017 at 09:17 PM.
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  #21150 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2017, 09:12 PM
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Hey IDJ,

Good job on that metal. I did the same thing for the rear rails on the body of my 27 T. I have it on a 32 chassis and needed to match the frame curve.
I wound up making two sets. The first set I did the slice and dice but when I welded them up it just didn't do anything for me. I didn't like the look. So I built a second set and did it differently. I drew out the curve on a couple a 2X6's cut it out and put them side by side making a buck I then made a reverse image out of a couple more 2X6's.

I took my tubes and sealed one end and filled them to the top with playground sand. I mounted my buck in my press and set it all together. I made some side guides and then heated the tubes red in the areas where they needed to bend the most. I put the metal in and smashed down on the pieces. This worked pretty good I still got some uneven bending but it stayed straight and didn't collapse on itself..Sand and heat works pretty good.

Good job on that part. looks real good.
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