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  #21931 (permalink)  
Old 01-17-2018, 08:33 PM
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that's great work there. Today I racked a honda on a chief. It's been so long and asked a guy to refresh my memory. After a couple minutes I was rolling. We have two chief racks with Car O liner measuring and car o liner roll around. Anywho, pulled out a rear body and had it good and was about to un rack it. Then I remembered to ad the rear body trim and often when you think it's out enough it may not be so you have to mock them up. Sure enough, it needed to come out a little more. Same thing with height and some upper trim to the bumper to radiator. Some have rubber stops in them that aren't adjustable and if you forget to mock it up you'll be in for a surprise when putting it together. Looks like I'm rolling in my new job and they seem to like my work. Getting quality and hours means being efficient and doing it right the first time.

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  #21932 (permalink)  
Old 01-17-2018, 08:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
I am having a hard time understanding the picture. How is it oriented?

John
Howdy John. I know them moldings ain't your favorite thing to work on but hopefully its good for some satisfaction and old skill exercise. Want another pile to do? Haha.

Its upside down, and so far its the biggest thing I ever fabbed. Here, pretend the car is on it's lid and stand on the rear axle looking down. Brace farthest away from you is where the back edge of the front pans meets. Seat mounts will be plates, notched at the pan's angle into the top of the tubing. Belt mounts will be seperate plates, and where you see the flat strap across the driveshaft / exhaust hump there will be a body mount or possibly just a cushion, in the originally unsupported span in the center of the floor. I still have to make up plates to attach the ends of the braces to the inner rockers. Tubing is 14 gauge, brace centers are 16, pan is 18. Think its sturdy enough? The assembly as you see it here is fairly rigid but the front corners do droop a little in the pic.

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  #21933 (permalink)  
Old 01-17-2018, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
Howdy John. I know them moldings ain't your favorite thing to work on but hopefully its good for some satisfaction and old skill exercise. Want another pile to do? Haha.

Its upside down, and so far its the biggest thing I ever fabbed. Here, pretend the car is on it's lid and stand on the rear axle looking down. Brace farthest away from you is where the back edge of the front pans meets. Seat mounts will be plates, notched at the pan's angle into the top of the tubing. Belt mounts will be seperate plates, and where you see the flat strap across the driveshaft / exhaust hump there will be a body mount or possibly just a cushion, in the originally unsupported span in the center of the floor. I still have to make up plates to attach the ends of the braces to the inner rockers. Tubing is 14 gauge, brace centers are 16, pan is 18. Think its sturdy enough? The assembly as you see it here is fairly rigid but the front corners do droop a little in the pic.
Oh yea. I think you are on a roll. I thought it was upside down but the channels sticking up (down) were messing with my mind.

As always, I love seeing the stuff they bring you and the way you attack it. Thanks for posting!

John
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  #21934 (permalink)  
Old 01-18-2018, 09:03 PM
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another great day at work. I learned the hard way, if you can fix something, don't always tell them you can fix it. Go for replace. Only fix trainwrecks if it's slow or you have to. I don't want to mud an entire quarter. I already did that in restoration. No need to be a hot shot. There's plenty of ways to make money for the shop and usually that's thorough estimates and being efficient and doing good work. Before, I'd jump at the opportunity to proclaim, "I can fix that", but how am I gonna fix the wheel house? By guessing? No, tally it up. The trim, hatch, even get time to hang the headliner to get the harness to the hatch. Sure I can fix that, and even in the amount they give me, but what's that proving? They're already gonna know I can do good bodywork. You start doing that and that's all they'll give you! You start banging out the structural stuff AND are good at bodywork, they're gonna keep your plate full! THIS is what I've been learning this past year, and some of it the hard way.
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  #21935 (permalink)  
Old 01-18-2018, 09:19 PM
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On Tuesday, I remembered the owner had mentioned a soft spot in the left front frame area behind the wheel, so John and I looked at it to see what the story was. One glance and I was "oh crap !!" we were done for that day, so I decided all work on sheetmetal was stopped until the frame was reinforced. I got done with work early today, so I dug into it. I was going to cut plates and weld to the frame rail, but after hitting it with the air chisel to knock the loose stuff off, there wasn't anything left to weld to. I cut oversize plates and went to good metal beyond the holes and welded the plates together instead of the frame. I had to cut the bottom of the fender off for access with the welder and then a slight cut in the fender mount of the cowl and it all fell off.





























By welding the vertical seam and about 1/2" of the 2 horizontal, the metal was warm enough to hammer form around the curve, welding and hammering as I went.



Then I rolled underneath to do the overhead and it wasn't going well and I ran out of gas, so I could justify quitting for the day....2 1/2 hours. About another 1/2 hour or so tomorrow and this will be done.

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  #21936 (permalink)  
Old 01-18-2018, 10:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
On Tuesday, I remembered the owner had mentioned a soft spot in the left front frame area behind the wheel, so John and I looked at it to see what the story was. One glance and I was "oh crap !!" we were done for that day, so I decided all work on sheetmetal was stopped until the frame was reinforced. I got done with work early today, so I dug into it. I was going to cut plates and weld to the frame rail, but after hitting it with the air chisel to knock the loose stuff off, there wasn't anything left to weld to. I cut oversize plates and went to good metal beyond the holes and welded the plates together instead of the frame. I had to cut the bottom of the fender off for access with the welder and then a slight cut in the fender mount of the cowl and it all fell off.





























By welding the vertical seam and about 1/2" of the 2 horizontal, the metal was warm enough to hammer form around the curve, welding and hammering as I went.



Then I rolled underneath to do the overhead and it wasn't going well and I ran out of gas, so I could justify quitting for the day....2 1/2 hours. About another 1/2 hour or so tomorrow and this will be done.

Yeow!

Brian
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  #21937 (permalink)  
Old 01-18-2018, 11:08 PM
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I went out in the garage to find my window channel and found instead the PILES of paint and clear that I have to dump this Saturday. This makes me want to puke dumping this stuff, but the more I dug out the more I was convinced that there is no way I can use it, I would have to be out of my friggin mind to use this 20 year old stuff!

Check out the gallons of Acme Clear, ACME! LOL Sherwin dropped that label over 20 years ago! DAMN it sucks, that clear was like friggin magic compared to the highsolids crap of today. I shot hundreds of gallons of that stuff.

But damn I am now glad to get rid of it, my God the cans are rusty, holy crap! There is thousands of dollars of stuff here.....if it were new....now, thank goodness I have a place where I can legally dump it.

Brian
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  #21938 (permalink)  
Old 01-19-2018, 07:18 AM
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Mitch, what metal thickness did you use, is that 1/8" plate? That sure is a bad spot on the A bodies. Find one marked with an affordable price... then go stick a pencil through the frame right there. Carefully inspect the engine crossmember and control arm mount areas, my 72 broke the rail on that side. You are definitely "the man" for whipping up a fix with the body on.
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  #21939 (permalink)  
Old 01-19-2018, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
Mitch, what metal thickness did you use, is that 1/8" plate? That sure is a bad spot on the A bodies. Find one marked with an affordable price... then go stick a pencil through the frame right there. Carefully inspect the engine crossmember and control arm mount areas, my 72 broke the rail on that side. You are definitely "the man" for whipping up a fix with the body on.
The second gens have the familiar problem of cracking right behind the lower control arm. I've not noticed that with the first gens..
The first gens have this issue in common and not so much the second gens...Gm improved 1 area and created a different problem.

He has another car with a better frame that he is "eventually" going to strip, paint and put under this one. I think (hope) seeing the extent of this will move that time line forward, a bunch. This is a life long MN car and sat for many years, further rusting. The severe scaling seems to be common for vehicles that sit and never get driven to "shake" the scale off over time. The "fix" isn't pretty but is strong and will allow time for the frame swap, just like the patches to the passenger compartment floor. His plan is a complete 1 piece floor with the frame swap. He's got a LOT of work ahead of him.
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  #21940 (permalink)  
Old 01-19-2018, 08:02 AM
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Well yeah let's use the term "fix" loosely... it means he isn't screwed this minute and can drive it some maybe. What car s it? My experience is with the 68-72s. Ripping control arm mounts off was common enough that there was a "service bulletin" while they were late models, or so I was told by dealer techs from those days. My GP let one rip and took the hunk of rail with it. My 72 SS revealed the right rail crack when jacking it up one day, only the top of the rail was holding it together right behind the engine xmember. Anyway, have a gas with that today. I ran my GTP low on coolant yesterday and got it pretty hot. Looks like the heater hose elbows replacement is an annual thing.
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  #21941 (permalink)  
Old 01-19-2018, 08:34 AM
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"Fix" in this case is kind of like a junkie, temporary and hopefully, short term..
This Chevelle is a '66. I've had 2 '70's with the frame crack problem and my shop buddy, John, has a '72 that he had repaired at Centerline right after he bought it and I looked at it...
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Old 01-19-2018, 09:34 AM
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ACME... Acme.. Was that Wil-e-coyote paint company? Or Wil-e-coyote painter?

Sam




Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post

Check out the gallons of Acme Clear, ACME! LOL Sherwin dropped that label over 20 years ago! DAMN it sucks, that clear was like friggin magic compared to the highsolids crap of today. I shot hundreds of gallons of that stuff.


Brian
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  #21943 (permalink)  
Old 01-19-2018, 10:19 AM
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ACME... Acme.. Was that Wil-e-coyote paint company? Or Wil-e-coyote painter?

Sam
Acme was Willie's go to company for all his needs. Looking back, he apparently, had internet ordering and next day delivery too, before anyone else had even thought of it...
And he was, surely, an early Mutant, with his self healing power..
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  #21944 (permalink)  
Old 01-19-2018, 10:43 AM
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ACME... Acme.. Was that Wil-e-coyote paint company? Or Wil-e-coyote painter?

Sam
It's so funny how many products we buy every day are repackaged with different names sold for different prices around town in different stores. Acme was a Sherwin Williams label sold in independent stores. They stuck the label on the same exact can as the cans in....damn I forget the auto parts chain...crap, but it was "Rogers" paint in that store. Then in Napa auto parts stores the exact same can of paint had a "Martin Senour" label on it. And there may have been others I don't remember.

But it was so funny when I would change over a store or shop like one in particular I remember, a parts store in a little town in the desert of California where I removed, Rogers, and Sherwin Willams labels off the same can to put the Martin Senour one on. LOL

What really blew me away was finding out that our "value line" urethane was the exact same paint as our top of the line SS at a third of the cost! There were less toners in the system which meant less formulas for colors. They didn't have the real clean red toner so you couldn't make COKE red for instance. But the Red toner that was there, it was about $80 a gallon and the same toner (Yes I checked batch numbers) in the high end line was $350! NO KIDDING!

I saw this over and over, or our bondo was labeled Martin Senour but was made by Evercoat (same batch numbers) wild how much this happens.

There was just a recall of some food product and they had a list of the labels to remove from our kitchens was a mile long, all kinds of brands sold in all kinds of stores!

Marketing is an interesting game.

Brian
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  #21945 (permalink)  
Old 01-19-2018, 11:28 AM
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Id like to get some of that ACME tunnel paint if you have any, Brian.
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