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  #23896 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2018, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
Except for taking most of the weekend off, to do yard work, I've been busting my butt to get this '71 Chevelle to alignment this morning. Yesterday was 12 HOURS and here it is 5:30 am the next day and I'm heading to the shop again. Still have ride height, pinion angle and wheelbase to set before 8:45. 4 corner alignment is at 10...

Matt, your seat mounting brackets will very sturdy, especially compared to the original method of welding a plate with 5/16" studs onto a sheetmetal floor to hold the buckets...
Thank you sir. I certainly prefer through-the-pan seat mounting. These were not offered with buckets, hence the trouble.

As part of my race in recent years, to downgrade life quality at a rate that matches income required to live, I gave up front end alignments. I used to be a good alignment's biggest fan but thats asking too much of the world these days, for my rides. So I guess and go, and guess some more if a tire is being destroyed. So thirty something Matt would fuss, fifties Matt just drives it no matter the alignment problems. Just don't knock yourself out fussing over things, if the thrust angle isn't wrecked they'll just set the toe and ask if you want to fix the frame sag before they crutch the camber with offset shafts or whatever. Not trying to sound like Eeyore but I know I do.

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  #23897 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2018, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
Yep. '99 Grand Prix, no cold on driver's side plus it leaks. OK, maybe a little cold when it has enough refrigerant. Not worth anyone's time or thought. Probably a trick anyway...
Does the system cycle correctly? Good airflow through the appropriate vents?
Never mind temp at this point.

BB
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  #23898 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2018, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by cowboy_dan View Post
Is there any particular reason you can't use you're little magic jeweler's torch and weld up the hole, or just tired of dealing with something so thin?
If we were a little closer, I'd say let's try my new TIG. I can do 22ga mild steel fairly easily, so I wouldn't expect 24ga to be too much worse.


On the other side, who says it has to made of one piece? If you do short sections of straight channel, you can approximate a curve. I've seen a lot of turbo plumbing done that way on the diesel pickups. Maybe not the prettiest in the world, but if it's thick enough material it'd be easy enough to weld that you may not mind the 22,397 tiny welds per side.


Or do you even have to have a curved cross-section? If you made it in 2-3 loooooong pieces (bead roller/shrinker/stretcher?) with straight sides and welded them up, would that work?
What I have decided to do is up my game and see if I can master this thin stuff. First off, I will sand blast the back side so it's spotless metal on both sides. Then I will change the tip size filler rod size around and see if I can better what I am doing. The welding of it doesn't seem to be such an issue as it's joined as welding is suppose to do, I am not blowing holes or anything like that (well not many) but it may be more of an alignment issue than a welding issue. Where as if the alignment is off a tad you can make up for it by "blocking" the metal with the grinder. This metal being so thin, you have no "filler" to block! But a better weld may help to so I am going to start by seeing if I can better that, I do have a bunch of scrapes I can practice on so I will do that.

I tried changing to a smaller tip for instance and I couldn't make it happen but I think it's more about my skills with that tiny tip, I am thinking too much pressure or something, I will play with that too.

Brian
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  #23899 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2018, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
What I have decided to do is up my game and see if I can master this thin stuff. First off, I will sand blast the back side so it's spotless metal on both sides. Then I will change the tip size filler rod size around and see if I can better what I am doing. The welding of it doesn't seem to be such an issue as it's joined as welding is suppose to do, I am not blowing holes or anything like that (well not many) but it may be more of an alignment issue than a welding issue. Where as if the alignment is off a tad you can make up for it by "blocking" the metal with the grinder. This metal being so thin, you have no "filler" to block! But a better weld may help to so I am going to start by seeing if I can better that, I do have a bunch of scrapes I can practice on so I will do that.

I tried changing to a smaller tip for instance and I couldn't make it happen but I think it's more about my skills with that tiny tip, I am thinking too much pressure or something, I will play with that too.

Brian
would srainless work better.
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  #23900 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2018, 10:45 AM
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If you have never installed one of these mouldings you don't have any idea how friggin stupid they are. They are SUPER tight slipping over the edge of that pinch weld, you have to keep that paint super thin there.

I can't explain it, the moulding is very "deep" where it slips over the pinch weld, and think about this, the distance between the front to the rear and top to the bottom on that pinch weld is exactly the same as the inside of the moulding! So the moulding has to be bent to fit it onto the pinch welds! So when the window was the stock size it was hard enough to get in there, now that it's chopped and the bottom front of the door is even more at an angle with the leaned back A pillars it's MUCH harder to get that moulding installed on the pinch weld.

I had to cut a bunch off the back of the moulding just to get it so it could fit at all, with lots of bending pushing it big time up to a point just shy VERY close to folding the friggin thing buckling it in half!

Brian
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  #23901 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2018, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
would srainless work better.
I don't know, I have one stainless moulding, I will give it a try. I have very very little experience in welding stainless. I have no rod, and the rod has to be the same alloy makeup I believe. When I have done it in the past I cut strips of the moulding off and used it as filler rod. I may give it a try, it looks to be just as thin though.

Brian
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  #23902 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2018, 10:52 AM
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You want to hear something cute on this subject of the thin mouldings? LOL I emailed someone selling reproduction mouldings on eBay and the guy sends me back a message telling me that he can't check them being they are sent direct from the factory to the buyer and he doesn't have them in stock. But then went on with the cute part, saying "they must be the same being they are made to original factory specs." LOLOLOL A reproduction part made to "factory specs" how cute is that! I kinda gushed when I read it.

Brian
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  #23903 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2018, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boothboy View Post
Does the system cycle correctly? Good airflow through the appropriate vents?
Never mind temp at this point.

BB
I believe it does.
Quite good.

Fabricating a filler panel currently...
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  #23904 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2018, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
I believe it does.
Quite good.

Fabricating a filler panel currently...
Fire it up and let it run with the a/c on . After warm up with both hands feel top and bottom of the accumulater (dryer). Are they cold and equal in temp?

BB
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  #23905 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2018, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
I don't know, I have one stainless moulding, I will give it a try. I have very very little experience in welding stainless. I have no rod, and the rod has to be the same alloy makeup I believe. When I have done it in the past I cut strips of the moulding off and used it as filler rod. I may give it a try, it looks to be just as thin though.

Brian
I've MIG welded SS to mild steel with regular gas shielded .023 wire. It was a fairly small patch panel in in the floor of a '98 Jetta. It was still holding fine when I sold the car a little over a year later.


Now if you're worried about structural integrity, then you do need the correct filler. But I doubt molding falls under that category.


If it was going to be exposed bare (polished/brushed stainless ), then you're need the SS filler to prevent rust. But since you're going to chrome it, I say use whatever your favorite filler is.
Personally for the TIG, I like .023 MIG wire on thin stuff. I haven't used a gas torch to weld in probably 15+ years, but I don't see why the same wire wouldn't work.


The sound of the pop of the torch igniting, the hiss of the flame, the birds chirping, the warmth of the sun on your back.
The warmth of the dog peeing on your leg, the smell of burning flesh as the red hot end of the filler whips through your other leg when you jump........
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  #23906 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2018, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boothboy View Post
Fire it up and let it run with the a/c on . After warm up with both hands feel top and bottom of the accumulater (dryer). Are they cold and equal in temp?

BB
Might be tomorrow.
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  #23907 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2018, 12:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cowboy_dan View Post
I've MIG welded SS to mild steel with regular gas shielded .023 wire. It was a fairly small patch panel in in the floor of a '98 Jetta. It was still holding fine when I sold the car a little over a year later.


Now if you're worried about structural integrity, then you do need the correct filler. But I doubt molding falls under that category.


If it was going to be exposed bare (polished/brushed stainless ), then you're need the SS filler to prevent rust. But since you're going to chrome it, I say use whatever your favorite filler is.
Personally for the TIG, I like .023 MIG wire on thin stuff. I haven't used a gas torch to weld in probably 15+ years, but I don't see why the same wire wouldn't work.


The sound of the pop of the torch igniting, the hiss of the flame, the birds chirping, the warmth of the sun on your back.
The warmth of the dog peeing on your leg, the smell of burning flesh as the red hot end of the filler whips through your other leg when you jump........
I'm sorry if we weren't on the same track. Yes you can weld stainless with mild steel rod, I am talking about using the stainless rod so it can be cut and polished and not chromed.

Yeah, I sure learned about this subject 40 years ago when I cut the winshield center moulding on my truck. It's stainless with a metal backing that the stainless is wrapped around. I welded the metal piece to hold it together then found someone who welded stainless and had them weld it. I will never forget walking into this welding shop handing the guy this moulding. He walked away and welded it and back and handed it to me in about a minute tops! I left and went home and cut and polished it. About a week later I could see a rust line forming across it, the JERK had welded it with a steel filler rod. Geeez, I could have done that!


Brian
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  #23908 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2018, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
About a week later I could see a rust line forming across it, the JERK had welded it with a steel filler rod. Geeez, I could have done that!


Brian
Not necessarily.

Stainless may rust when freshly polished.
It needs to oxidize before it's stainless again.
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  #23909 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2018, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by boothboy View Post
Fire it up and let it run with the a/c on . After warm up with both hands feel top and bottom of the accumulater (dryer). Are they cold and equal in temp?

BB
I'd say equal temp. I'll backtrack, too, and say airflow is reduced on driver's side, outside vent worse. A tiny bit of cool is in drivers vents after warmup. Flow halfish.
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  #23910 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2018, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
I don't know, I have one stainless moulding, I will give it a try. I have very very little experience in welding stainless. I have no rod, and the rod has to be the same alloy makeup I believe. When I have done it in the past I cut strips of the moulding off and used it as filler rod. I may give it a try, it looks to be just as thin though.

Brian
I have a pair but one of mine is cracked ,i will look them up and see which one is broke.
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