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  #23911 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2018, 02:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
I'm sorry if we weren't on the same track. Yes you can weld stainless with mild steel rod, I am talking about using the stainless rod so it can be cut and polished and not chromed.

Brian



You had me questioning my own reading skills!
I had to go back and check:


Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
Now, this is to make it chromeable, if I give up on that, piece of cake. But damn it, I want it all in chrome, that is the look I want!

I read that and thought that meant getting it chrome coated. You're going for polished stainless (which is probably nicer anyway).
I misunderstood.




I need to figure out where to get some 24/26ga sheet now. I want to see if I can do it.
Out of curiosity, single edge razor blades (which I can't weld) are typically 9 thousandths of an inch thick (0.009"), though could be slightly more or less.
https://www.razorbladeco.com/9-and-12-razor-blades
https://www.answers.com/Q/What_is_th...ge_razor_blade
24ga is 0.0239", 26ga is 0.0209" thick
https://www.unc.edu/~rowlett/units/s...heetmetal.html

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  #23912 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2018, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cowboy_dan View Post
You had me questioning my own reading skills!
I had to go back and check:





I read that and thought that meant getting it chrome coated. You're going for polished stainless (which is probably nicer anyway).
I misunderstood.




I need to figure out where to get some 24/26ga sheet now. I want to see if I can do it.
Out of curiosity, single edge razor blades (which I can't weld) are typically 9 thousandths of an inch thick (0.009"), though could be slightly more or less.
https://www.razorbladeco.com/9-and-12-razor-blades
https://www.answers.com/Q/What_is_th...ge_razor_blade
24ga is 0.0239", 26ga is 0.0209" thick
https://www.unc.edu/~rowlett/units/s...heetmetal.html
It's not like I have to clarify this, but the stainless steel talk came later, I plan on chrome plating all the mouldings as they are mild steel. We brought up stainless and in that case I would want to weld and polish them. But all I have is steel and they will be chrome plated.

Brian
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  #23913 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2018, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
Not necessarily.

Stainless may rust when freshly polished.
It needs to oxidize before it's stainless again.
HUH? Ok, what in the heck is "Oxidized" and how do you do it?

Brian
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  #23914 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2018, 06:00 PM
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Fixed a rear taillight steel, installed a new rear harness, bulbs(some led) and new bulbs lenses. Then installed my new bumper.

All of this is temporary to get this thing driving legally. The next stage of this the bed will be ripped off and flatbed made.













Next is the front end.
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  #23915 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2018, 06:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
HUH? Ok, what in the heck is "Oxidized" and how do you do it?

Brian
You don't do anything except maybe try buffing the rust off and let another couple days pass to see if it rusts again. It occurs naturally. Stainless has some kind of steel or iron in it that when exposed can rust. Only until it naturally oxidizes. It's actually the opposite of our rusty cars.

When we get rust calls from clients, we tell them to use a scotchbrite pad, remove the rust, rinse and call it good. It doesn't rust after that.

Edit: the guy could have very well used a steel rod. A magnet will stick lightly to a stainless weld but will stick hard on a steel weld.
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  #23916 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2018, 06:24 PM
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A quick trip through the blast cabinet and a pass with a unibit is all that stands between me and this piece now. I tilted the rear wall back a half inch for more seat frame clearance and bumped down the spot where the track contacted the filler pan when all the way back.



While I was out flogging the GT, a frame came in. Think its for the Coyote Model A job.



Oh and the owner-assembled (except for sheetmetal, that is) black '69 SS396 Chevelle is back for the complimentary post-assembly paint going-over. Dadgum that thing is sharp as a new razor blade. He opened the dumps for a moment after backing it off the trailer. Mmm, raspy idle.
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  #23917 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2018, 09:09 PM
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I got out there and sand blasted some pieces and fine tuned my welding a bit. I moved up to .030 wire, that helped. I will practice a bit more before I go back to the moulding.

Brian
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  #23918 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2018, 09:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cowboy_dan View Post
I've MIG welded SS to mild steel with regular gas shielded .023 wire. It was a fairly small patch panel in in the floor of a '98 Jetta. It was still holding fine when I sold the car a little over a year later.


Now if you're worried about structural integrity, then you do need the correct filler. But I doubt molding falls under that category.


If it was going to be exposed bare (polished/brushed stainless ), then you're need the SS filler to prevent rust. But since you're going to chrome it, I say use whatever your favorite filler is.
Personally for the TIG, I like .023 MIG wire on thin stuff. I haven't used a gas torch to weld in probably 15+ years, but I don't see why the same wire wouldn't work.


The sound of the pop of the torch igniting, the hiss of the flame, the birds chirping, the warmth of the sun on your back.
The warmth of the dog peeing on your leg, the smell of burning flesh as the red hot end of the filler whips through your other leg when you jump........
Don't forget the string of vile curses, the fond memories of the taste of Lifebuoy Soap and your mother, after you pick the super heated part with your bare hand.

BB
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  #23919 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2018, 11:24 PM
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Went out today and removed the cover from my pontoon to charge batterys and treat the vinyl on the seats so I could use it this weekend , ,almost wish I hadn't,the squirrels had made a mess inside my boat and I did have a cover on it,,hope they didn't damage any wires ,I could not lay in floor to look under the dash because when I started to remove the cover it riped about 5 feet tear and the old green water on the cover and leaves all dumped on my Beige carpet ,,hope it will clean up---before and after,
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  #23920 (permalink)  
Old 05-09-2018, 03:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
Went out today and removed the cover from my pontoon to charge batterys and treat the vinyl on the seats so I could use it this weekend , ,almost wish I hadn't,the squirrels had made a mess inside my boat and I did have a cover on it,,hope they didn't damage any wires ,I could not lay in floor to look under the dash because when I started to remove the cover it riped about 5 feet tear and the old green water on the cover and leaves all dumped on my Beige carpet ,,hope it will clean up---before and after,
I'm afraid to look in my boat every spring.
I never had a mess that bad yet.
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  #23921 (permalink)  
Old 05-09-2018, 07:04 AM
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A little mildew on the seats or some mostiure is normal ,but never seen anything like this especially with a Waperproof cover,,a lot of the Green on the carpet is from the cover when it tore ,,we have had a LOT of rain last few months,mabe I should have already checked it..

Get out the bleach and pressure washer.
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  #23922 (permalink)  
Old 05-09-2018, 09:49 AM
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The brown truck brought new tires for the rear of my Austin gasser yesterday! I'm presently running drag radials and wanted something more traditional for a 60's style gasser. These are Towel City DOT pie crust slicks, and they are 1" narrower than my M&H drag radials, which will pull them in slightly, which I also want.

Present setup. 275-60-15


New tires. 28-9-15


Waiting for my local tire store to open so they can mount them up today.
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  #23923 (permalink)  
Old 05-09-2018, 09:59 AM
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The brown truck brought new tires for the rear of my Austin gasser yesterday! I'm presently running drag radials and wanted something more traditional for a 60's style gasser. These are Towel City DOT pie crust slicks, and they are 1" narrower than my M&H drag radials, which will pull them in slightly, which I also want.

Present setup. 275-60-15


New tires. 28-9-15


Waiting for my local tire store to open so they can mount them up today.
Really like the ripple sidewalls,look like the old M&H Racemasters of the past.
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  #23924 (permalink)  
Old 05-09-2018, 12:03 PM
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Really like the ripple sidewalls,look like the old M&H Racemasters of the past.
Towel City is still using the same molds they used since the early 1970's, so I guess they feel perfection shouldn't be messed with!



As I hoped the new tires allowed me to really pull the tire/wheel in closer. Right where I want them now! And no adapter spacer anymore!

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  #23925 (permalink)  
Old 05-09-2018, 05:50 PM
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That gasser is a drop dead knockout! Now I want pies and pizza.

Heres what months of prep then about an hour of welding got me-



(P.S. Heard a screw in a GTP tire, yep right rear. Hunting up my plugs now and unscrewing with high hopes of no hissy bubbles.)
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