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  #24316 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2018, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
They may not eat fat but they have feels. Over seven years I have endured wood wheel cracks now.



I been over at the RVA final fitting the left quarter bottom rear patch. Made it too short where it meets the front part of the trunk drop.

Too funny.


I wish I hadda seen these wood wheels before I bought rims and tires to roll my rod around.

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  #24317 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2018, 06:12 PM
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You'd have made metal ones. These lowly woodys do have a fairly prestigious position as wheels go, they may not handle well or look like fat meats but they sure launch builds like crazy. If you car gets to wear them, you will probably be in Vegas some November.

Past due trunk pics-





I am blaming motormouth coworker next to my stall for the epic weld gap at the triangle at rear. Why must they speak the entire time, and why is the other side of the shop wide open? Turblo dude went to an import shootout and was yacking unstoppably. They have a contest for how loud your exhaust pops on the rev limiter second step. Why? And why would anybody think I gave a crap about that, let alone watch it on your phone? Or hear how you hung with a SS Camaro on a third gear pull. Vomitus. Wheres Brian's puke pic we hadn't seen in awhile? Whew, at least Monday is gone now.

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  #24318 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2018, 07:16 PM
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More Chevelle right door work. There was a nice rust hole under the door seal when I pulled it off. I had to cut a lot larger slot to get the wheel in the recess of the donor door and didn't want to butcher the replacement door that bad, so welded the patch on top.







Moved on to the rust hole in the rear corner patch. I had to chase it a little ways to find good metal, but I had figured I would. Turned out pretty nice.





Put the hinges on and threw it on to see how the lines were. Looked good to me, so I welded the slots I had to cut in the skin closed. The patch is now done.





Flipped it over to address the pin hole in the skin. There was a slight bubble along the edge that was there before I started working on this. I didn't want to weld or cut with that high spot and have the skin go ape crap and warp, so I tapped it down with a body hammer, but the high spot just moved inboard a few inches. I hit it with the shrinking disc and water twice and it leveled off almost completely.



Then I cut a small piece of old door skin and tapped it in behind the inner brace as a backer behind the pinhole, so it wouldn't blow out. That worked very well, as I could see the thin area of the skin dissolve in the arc, but the hole filled right in with the backer behind it.





The last thing to do to this door, is get the mirror backing plate out of the old door and into this one. I cut all the non-body guys crappy welds and pried the new AMD skin off. Then I had to drill out the 16 plug welds I had made to hold the reinforcement strip on so it would be really strong and NEVER come off... Once the strip was off, I had to locate the 3 plug welds holding the plate to the strip. Got it off and ready to install in the new door. That's tomorrows job. I had to go mow the yard after all this.







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  #24319 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2018, 07:45 PM
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While I was mowing, the FedEx man came to the door with presents...

Parts for the '62 Impala...new seat foam, bottom spring and tracks for the left seat. New emblem inserts for the hood and trunk and 409 emblems for the fenders...



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  #24320 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2018, 09:51 PM
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not much going down here but a few things...

this "work bench" was not working. Besides, I didn't want something stuck against the wall and have things mounted to it where metal shavings fly everywhere and even directly in the path of foot traffic to the side the door. So I got something mobil so I can put it in the middle of garage and get to clean it off better. I even added a power supply to it so you don't have to fidget with plugs. Added a belt sander as well.

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  #24321 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2018, 09:55 PM
put up or shut up
 

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here's the finished look. I wish it wasn't such a hassle to load pics to this site. What a waste of time. Gotta say, I tried shaping my tig tungsten with a bench grinder and then a belt sander and the arc was more stable then ever. Curious to see how that works with aluminum.

Last edited by tech69; 06-04-2018 at 10:10 PM.
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  #24322 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2018, 09:56 PM
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Got some spots missed in my patches all welded up, then went to the holes in the drivers side floor that I hadn't seen before, made some patches, and now I have to re-think the whole thing. Do I replace the floor, do I make a new one, do I buy a repro, hmmmmmmmm

Brian
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  #24323 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2018, 10:21 PM
put up or shut up
 

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I've had the template for this for a while now and finally got some scrap. I wish I had my belt sander when i made this cause then I would have had perfect beveled edges to weld to. These are great stands but I don't see myself paying $200 for one when i can make one. Kicking myself for not getting a good practice bead or two before going for it.I knew I needed to crank it at 200amp so didn't need a run a bead for settings.

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  #24324 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2018, 10:35 PM
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Sooooooo guys, I was looking over the patches and where I may need to weld something I missed and I see this. It's at the bottom of the cab right at the sill. I saw it and thought what in the hell did I do there? You see I sectioned the cab over 20 years ago and I could have just not finished this. It made no sense, I didn't remember working in that area, what the hell?

Upon a closer inspection it's original! OMG look at this screwed up mess that came off the assembly line, the other side looks similar but not nearly as bad. Look at the welds above it in the other photo, you really have to screw up to "restore" one of these trucks. LOL

I can't get over that hole, I have another patch to make.

Brian
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  #24325 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2018, 10:40 PM
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+10mm up at the cradle can be pulled down at the rail on a Chief tower, but not Caroliner. You'll need two towers for that. What happened here is the rail was pushed so far down the cradle went up. So when you pull it the rail goes limp and actually might have made the cradle higher It needs to be walked out. ram pushing up at the end of rail while down pulling at the cradle mount. Somebody needed the rack so actually had to take the darn thing off the rack and onto the lift, drop the rear axle, put it on jig, and then back to rack. So tomorrow I pull it again and cut some metal.

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On Sunday I went on a morning run with no practice. I need to get back out there and finish that up. 1/16" tungsten too small for that metal, 3/32" too big. glad to have tried out that 5/64" tungsten cause now it will be my go to for bike frames and that gage

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  #24326 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2018, 03:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
Sooooooo guys, I was looking over the patches and where I may need to weld something I missed and I see this. It's at the bottom of the cab right at the sill. I saw it and thought what in the hell did I do there? You see I sectioned the cab over 20 years ago and I could have just not finished this. It made no sense, I didn't remember working in that area, what the hell?

Upon a closer inspection it's original! OMG look at this screwed up mess that came off the assembly line, the other side looks similar but not nearly as bad. Look at the welds above it in the other photo, you really have to screw up to "restore" one of these trucks. LOL

I can't get over that hole, I have another patch to make.

Brian

Looks like a factory drain hole.
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  #24327 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2018, 04:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
Looks like a factory drain hole.
You can see a scallop just beyond the ugly seam. That was the drain hole. The missing metal was probably originally filled with seam sealer.
Gotta remember, trucks were built to work back then, not look pretty, ride and handle like a car and be a status symbol... The '69 C10 I bought last fall has areas like that still, where it was cheaper and quicker than having another time consuming detail of metal fit to slow the assembly line.
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  #24328 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2018, 06:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
Got some spots missed in my patches all welded up, then went to the holes in the drivers side floor that I hadn't seen before, made some patches, and now I have to re-think the whole thing. Do I replace the floor, do I make a new one, do I buy a repro, hmmmmmmmm

Brian
FYI the pans we got (probably from H&H Classics) had incorrect distance between the body bolt depression and trans cover hole, driver's side. I believe most folks try to put the seam just ahead of the seat riser, IF the rearward portion of floor and seat mount are solid enough to leave in place. Placing the seam under the seat dictates some upside-down plug weld removal if leaving seat brace in place. The 53 at work has a nice butted seam just ahead of the seat thing but the trans opening flange had to be moved to make the rest of the drivers pan fit.
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  #24329 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2018, 06:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
Sooooooo guys, I was looking over the patches and where I may need to weld something I missed and I see this. It's at the bottom of the cab right at the sill. I saw it and thought what in the hell did I do there? You see I sectioned the cab over 20 years ago and I could have just not finished this. It made no sense, I didn't remember working in that area, what the hell?

Upon a closer inspection it's original! OMG look at this screwed up mess that came off the assembly line, the other side looks similar but not nearly as bad. Look at the welds above it in the other photo, you really have to screw up to "restore" one of these trucks. LOL

I can't get over that hole, I have another patch to make.

Brian
Don't you think thats the factory drain hole for condensation? Sloppy but that might be why its there.
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  #24330 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2018, 08:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
Sooooooo guys, I was looking over the patches and where I may need to weld something I missed and I see this. It's at the bottom of the cab right at the sill. I saw it and thought what in the hell did I do there? You see I sectioned the cab over 20 years ago and I could have just not finished this. It made no sense, I didn't remember working in that area, what the hell?

Upon a closer inspection it's original! OMG look at this screwed up mess that came off the assembly line, the other side looks similar but not nearly as bad. Look at the welds above it in the other photo, you really have to screw up to "restore" one of these trucks. LOL

I can't get over that hole, I have another patch to make.

Brian
Probably a Monday production run.

BB
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