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  #30646 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2019, 08:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
Ha! Knew you would have vid.

I can hear it hop though. Sounds similar to my ancient vid but ...

more banter later, walk through a thought process with me here please Mr Fixit.

I was wanting to get my heater fan back working. First, I dug through bins hunting for switches. Have a few. Look at fusebox to see how many amp fuse it has. 25. Hmm. Since I've gone through two flimsy switches now (they just pick a day and don't click or work anymore) I figures I better use a relay even though thats beyond my skill level without instruction.

Used to run the HEI on a relay but occasionally when cold it wouldn't shut off. So I had removed it. Now, where is it? I look on the inner fender to see and find this, which I believe was the fuseholder for my aux fan that I brag on so much.



Swear I heard it run recently. Anyway wtf happened here? Spontaneous combustion of fuse? Looks like there was electrical tape but I would also swear it had a nice weatherproof fuseholder there that came with the install kit.

Another feature bites the dust. Mercifully, for a simple man. Orange wires were stuck together hanging next to the battery. Nothing else looks toasty but theres a tiny leaf under the relay on the controller. Disconnecting it at the battery now, and counting blessings. All I wanted was a rip snort.

The 30 AMP fuse holder we buy these days are made in China and I've had one melt down also.


Use relays everywhere so you only need a 10 AMP fuse for your heavy duty stuff.


The relays are cheap and so easy to install. Diagrams all over google.

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  #30647 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2019, 08:23 PM
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What do you do with an old 3 light pole lamp? Make a drop light out of it of course.

Cardboard is still my favorite creeper.



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  #30648 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2019, 09:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
The 30 AMP fuse holder we buy these days are made in China and I've had one melt down also.


Use relays everywhere so you only need a 10 AMP fuse for your heavy duty stuff.


The relays are cheap and so easy to install. Diagrams all over google.
I probably have at least a car's worth of relays in the upside down GTP junk. But really, fuse holders just melt down with no other problem causing it and no fire? Damnation. I could not find any remnants of the fan fuse holder. According to experts that should be ripped out and chunked anyway. Theres a 30A fuse in a holder near the blower motor. I think. Down to lights and wipers here, lol. Good reason to just put it in the backyard and forget it before I kill it! GT belongs there too.
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  #30649 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2019, 09:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
I will install the links and see if it stops. After that, no more, just drive and build the next car.
Practice the reaction timing and get that below .1. Add traction to drop the 60 ft and you'll shave a half second off the time without any further mods.

When I had my first '70 SS 454 Chevelle with the LS5, M22, 373 posi, it would run 13.10s and an occasional 13.07. Never could get it under 13 until I dropped the LS6 in. Then it ran 12.65 at 118 mph with the same drive train. It needed deeper gears to launch hard with the LS6. It would either bog, or smoke the slicks off the light.
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  #30650 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2019, 09:47 PM
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We haven't had any frost yet, but I did have a coating of friggen SNOW on the truck and trailer this morning... It melted off by 1pm and the snow changed over to rain....for the rest of the day. We are something like 13 INCHES over average for this time of year now. Yep, been plenty of flash flooding in the area all summer/fall too. I'm already preparing myself to rent the storage locker all winter. If the rain doesn't stop now, I'm never going to get a new pole shed put up this year....
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  #30651 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2019, 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
I have contained my thoughts to one emerald tablet's worth. Dave I may have lost some pics I was looking for, to see how its put together. This may assist you in seeing whats going on with the roof rail construction. There are many ways to skin a cat.

Pen stuff at top is drip rail, pencil is sail panel. Shapes are imaginary. I vote patch over all four.
Matt, that helps. My drip rails are solid, so I think I'll try to get them cleaned up to the point that I can see any welds along them. Front and back are self explanatory, I think. I did start removing the windshield. I got the seal cut along both sides, and a little bit of the top & bottom. Maybe more tomorrow.
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  #30652 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2019, 10:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
Practice the reaction timing and get that below .1. Add traction to drop the 60 ft and you'll shave a half second off the time without any further mods.

When I had my first '70 SS 454 Chevelle with the LS5, M22, 373 posi, it would run 13.10s and an occasional 13.07. Never could get it under 13 until I dropped the LS6 in. Then it ran 12.65 at 118 mph with the same drive train. It needed deeper gears to launch hard with the LS6. It would either bog, or smoke the slicks off the light.
Dadgum. I watched Pugsy's vid a couple more times and with the way they worked the tree... he did durn near as good as a human possibly can. I wish I knew why it is done that way but since it looks to me like the far lane got ambers and the near lane only got a green, after staging, my input is again invalid. The green drawing is probably just as wacky. When I started doing occasional test and tune nights everybody got ambers and I could play the tree for tenths. But something changed and nobody does that now. Maybe to conserve bulbs? In my understanding, the clock doesn't start until the beam is broken anyway. Unless you are actually racing. So we are at least out of touch and I am straight full of it.

But the Camino sounds good, if thats the right one I am hearing toward the end. I am just too jealous. I doubt my boss has any idea what his 68 with soupy LS runs.
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  #30653 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2019, 10:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
Ha! Knew you would have vid.

I can hear it hop though. Sounds similar to my ancient vid but ...

more banter later, walk through a thought process with me here please Mr Fixit.

I was wanting to get my heater fan back working. First, I dug through bins hunting for switches. Have a few. Look at fusebox to see how many amp fuse it has. 25. Hmm. Since I've gone through two flimsy switches now (they just pick a day and don't click or work anymore) I figures I better use a relay even though thats beyond my skill level without instruction.

Used to run the HEI on a relay but occasionally when cold it wouldn't shut off. So I had removed it. Now, where is it? I look on the inner fender to see and find this, which I believe was the fuseholder for my aux fan that I brag on so much.

Swear I heard it run recently. Anyway wtf happened here? Spontaneous combustion of fuse? Looks like there was electrical tape but I would also swear it had a nice weatherproof fuseholder there that came with the install kit.

Another feature bites the dust. Mercifully, for a simple man. Orange wires were stuck together hanging next to the battery. Nothing else looks toasty but theres a tiny leaf under the relay on the controller. Disconnecting it at the battery now, and counting blessings. All I wanted was a rip snort.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
The 30 AMP fuse holder we buy these days are made in China and I've had one melt down also.


Use relays everywhere so you only need a 10 AMP fuse for your heavy duty stuff.


The relays are cheap and so easy to install. Diagrams all over google.

That does kinda look like the remnants of some tape. Any chance that the pieces fell someplace where they can be found? I agree with Pugsy, that a relay is needed in that circuit. I thought all of those fan wiring kits had a relay in it already? I just had to replace a fuse holder on my mower. 20 AMP fuse holder and the fuse were melted on one side. I'm guessing that the connection was weak on the melty side. The fuse was still good, as in not blown, but it was ugly. Things sure are being cheaply made now...
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  #30654 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2019, 10:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rip-tide View Post
What do you do with an old 3 light pole lamp? Make a drop light out of it of course.

Cardboard is still my favorite creeper.



Ha. I have spent lots of time under my junks in my little garage with a lamp from indoors and a moving blanket and the same water heater box creeper over two decades but somehow... it was never as cool as whatever you are doing there. But box is best. My creeper will grab and try to rip off the backside of your bicep. It has a wicked bite, wraps skin between wheel and caster thingy. When I yelp and flinch, theres a head injury to boot. And don't dare roll the wrong direction to free yourself from it!
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  #30655 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2019, 10:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cozwurth View Post
That does kinda look like the remnants of some tape. Any chance that the pieces fell someplace where they can be found? I agree with Pugsy, that a relay is needed in that circuit. I thought all of those fan wiring kits had a relay in it already? I just had to replace a fuse holder on my mower. 20 AMP fuse holder and the fuse were melted on one side. I'm guessing that the connection was weak on the melty side. The fuse was still good, as in not blown, but it was ugly. Things sure are being cheaply made now...

It does have a relay. It is plugged into the black control box on the core support in the pic. Maybe I added the fuse. I thought a fuse is still needed even if a relay is used. There were zero remnants to be found. I know how it sounds, but the car was in a show with the hood up a few months ago, with me wandering around. Maybe theres an old pic that can shed light. Or maybe I changed dimensions again, hell I dunno. I probably confused everyone mingling talk of blower motor and aux cooling fan.

Dynacorn made the unstepped sail panel kind of Camaro roof, maybe they have one for yours. The trick might be, if keeping drip rails, to drill the tiny and inconsistent factory spot welds out from under the rail and weld from down there. But on one I bonded to the drip rail and on one I welded from inside the rail on top. I think. Been slippin a lot lately though, on things I thought I knew.
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  #30656 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2019, 06:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
It does have a relay. It is plugged into the black control box on the core support in the pic. Maybe I added the fuse. I thought a fuse is still needed even if a relay is used. There were zero remnants to be found. I know how it sounds, but the car was in a show with the hood up a few months ago, with me wandering around. Maybe theres an old pic that can shed light. Or maybe I changed dimensions again, hell I dunno. I probably confused everyone mingling talk of blower motor and aux cooling fan.

Dynacorn made the unstepped sail panel kind of Camaro roof, maybe they have one for yours. The trick might be, if keeping drip rails, to drill the tiny and inconsistent factory spot welds out from under the rail and weld from down there. But on one I bonded to the drip rail and on one I welded from inside the rail on top. I think. Been slippin a lot lately though, on things I thought I knew.
Having a relay is good. Always run a fuse, even with a relay. I can think of a couple of things that could cause this... the fan motor could be heading south, causing some not-so-good terminals in the fuse holder to heat up and melt. Check the ends of those wires to see if the remnants of the fuse are still in them. The fan motor could be fine, and it could have simply been loose connections in the fuse holder. Definitely put a fuse back in that line, though.

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  #30657 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2019, 07:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cozwurth View Post
Having a relay is good. Always run a fuse, even with a relay. I can think of a couple of things that could cause this... the fan motor could be heading south, causing some not-so-good terminals in the fuse holder to heat up and melt. Check the ends of those wires to see if the remnants of the fuse are still in them. The fan motor could be fine, and it could have simply been loose connections in the fuse holder. Definitely put a fuse back in that line, though.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Thanks. The aux cooling fan is a thing that technically should not be anyway. Its like a training wheel that ought to be taken off at this point. Like the huge heavy box and amp in the trunk.

If I were to put the stock heater fan switch back in it and make all that work, that would be the right thing to do there. All I know how to do is run a hot wire to it for some defrost action and thats how it was for many many years. But it needs a relay or just a good enough switch. Adding a relay adds connections where problems can arise. Seems like a blower motor that doesn't require 30 amps ought to be available these days though, too. That nearly maxes out the stock electrical system all by itself. Its law here now that you can't use wipers without headlights but with those plus the blower motor that load exceeds a stock alternator's rating.

Its like the whole mystery with the GTP running hot until I got the A/C compressor off the belt. It cools like normal with just that change. I don't know how or why. When I can get by, thats what I do.
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  #30658 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2019, 08:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
The 30 AMP fuse holder we buy these days are made in China and I've had one melt down also.


Use relays everywhere so you only need a 10 AMP fuse for your heavy duty stuff.


The relays are cheap and so easy to install. Diagrams all over google.
Electricity (especially DC!) can do strange things, even when it's sitting static with nothing running! Batteries never really turn off, they simply get disconnected from the system. But as I found out last year they can still have issues when just sitting in the driveway!
This was my '63 Falcon's battery before it decided to self destruct.



I went out to start the car one day and the battery was dead. Opened the trunk and saw the carnage. The battery had a disconnect and it was off, so nothing connected to cause the carnage.



This what I removed from the trunk.





Battery manufacturer said it appeared the battery plates shorted internally and began a China syndrome as it sat in the driveway. Fortunately it never burst into flames or the end result could have been total loss of the car, and maybe the house too! But their warranty protects them from anything more than just battery replacement. Didn't even pay for clean up, or new paint.
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  #30659 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2019, 08:56 AM
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Jeeziz....never seen anything like that before.


If you want a sure fire fuse connection, solder wires to the fuse and heat shrink. PITA to change but, no loose connections.
Or use all OEM stuff.
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Old 10-13-2019, 08:59 AM
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I got the last bit of fender flange going on......











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