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  #30661 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2019, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
Jeeziz....never seen anything like that before.


If you want a sure fire fuse connection, solder wires to the fuse and heat shrink. PITA to change but, no loose connections.
Or use all OEM stuff.
Soldering wires to a fuse can melt the element connection and cause it to fail at lower amperage.

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  #30662 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2019, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by 1971BB427 View Post
Soldering wires to a fuse can melt the element connection and cause it to fail at lower amperage.

Thanks. That would really make it a pain, failing quicker.


I used a cheap relay/fuse box from Amazon on my El Camino. All wires soldered to the connectors, just don't know how long they'll stay tight.


I did fuse the hot sides. Just realized when I checked back on these pics.
















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  #30663 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2019, 10:45 AM
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I like using bare connectors and heat shrink over insulated connectors. It's always tough to look at an insulated connector and be sure how good the crimp is. But with bare it's easier to see the crimp. Plus they just look much better after the heat shrink is on and they're finished!
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  #30664 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2019, 10:46 AM
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Price is right and does a neat job of getting everything together.



https://www.amazon.com/ONLINE-LED-ST...0981415&sr=8-4
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  #30665 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2019, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1971BB427 View Post
I like using bare connectors and heat shrink over insulated connectors. It's always tough to look at an insulated connector and be sure how good the crimp is. But with bare it's easier to see the crimp. Plus they just look much better after the heat shrink is on and they're finished!

Agree. I love solder and shrink. Gawd, I don't know how many million connections on the Vortec swap I had to do.



I use insulated under the dash/unseen/out of weather, however, I squeeze them with the part of the tool that pokes a hole thru the insulation and stabs the wire properly. The poker for the non insulated ones. Nice and tight every time. I also make sure not to stab the seam. They sometime split.


I had the guys in the shop cut off the front end of their tools that just squeeze the insulated connectors. They are always loose and we get service calls later.
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  #30666 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2019, 10:57 AM
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I have contained my thoughts to one emerald tablet's worth. Dave I may have lost some pics I was looking for, to see how its put together. This may assist you in seeing whats going on with the roof rail construction. There are many ways to skin a cat.

Pen stuff at top is drip rail, pencil is sail panel. Shapes are imaginary. I vote patch over all four.

Question... Can the sides of the roof panel along the drip rails be 'glued' with panel bond instead of welded? Sail panels and front/rear glass will be welded like factory.
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  #30667 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2019, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by cozwurth View Post
Question... Can the sides of the roof panel along the drip rails be 'glued' with panel bond instead of welded? Sail panels and front/rear glass will be welded like factory.
Yes. Mock clamp first to be sure you have enough clamps that work.
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  #30668 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2019, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
Price is right and does a neat job of getting everything together.



https://www.amazon.com/ONLINE-LED-ST...0981415&sr=8-4
Batteries do self destruct / explode. Happened to a friend's 62 Valiant in HS while driving and he thought he got shot at. The car cranked up three more times afterward, before he found the battery exploded.

I don't want to re-engineer for added complexity, just get heat. Not expecting adjustable heater fan speed. Do have OE boxes around and maybe a parts store bought six holer blade type fuse box. I don't buy things online. Still on glass fuses. Not planning to resurrect the aux fan. Don't use insulated connectors anymore myself but am not good at soldering. I was able to swap the bad half of my EC's fuse box over to blade type without soldering but I do own an iron and some solder that is here at home. And heat shrink tube. I'll think of something. Might just go buy a better switch, might hook the stock wiring and switch back up. Switches I used in the past were just not bought for the purpose and apparently only make several years of service when used that way.

Turned the nub for the passenger side temp actuator on the GTP to hot today, with pliers. Woohoo! Still need to add a sunvisor to the right B pillar somehow.
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  #30669 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2019, 03:19 PM
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Windshield is out. My bride came out and helped me lift it out after I cut the urethane with a putty knife. Scraped the channel and then ran a knotted braid cup wire brush over it to get the worst of it out. I can see one place in the lower left corner that had surface rust at one time. Looks like the glass guy took care if it. Busted another drop light, so calling it quits for the day. Darn shame there are so many pits in the rest of the roof...

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
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  #30670 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2019, 05:51 PM
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Vinyl tops sucked.

I did this-





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  #30671 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2019, 09:37 PM
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I used the creepy kardboard outdoors doing all that and boy did I pick the wrong side. Blackened knees of my only unholy jeans and yep, ripped a knee out. So as I sat here sewing them up while watching stuff with saddle blankets in it, I remembered ...

I keep wanting to see the seat blankets John picked out. Did we see those and I missed it? (says Curious George to The Man In The Big Yellow Hat)
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  #30672 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2019, 09:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cozwurth View Post
Question... Can the sides of the roof panel along the drip rails be 'glued' with panel bond instead of welded? Sail panels and front/rear glass will be welded like factory.

Yes you can,i used panel adhesive to replace my top,but I still tacked it at the front and rear and clamped the sides overnight..

might have to zoom in picture ,,I think this is the best picture I have,
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  #30673 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2019, 09:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cozwurth View Post
Question... Can the sides of the roof panel along the drip rails be 'glued' with panel bond instead of welded? Sail panels and front/rear glass will be welded like factory.
Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
Yes. Mock clamp first to be sure you have enough clamps that work.
This would also mean not needing to tear up the drip rail. And hey if you are bonding the sides... just hit the first two or three plug welds at each corner of the glass beds and bond the rest to use up the syringe. Might as well, its better corrosion protection than burnt epoxy.

You apply a bead to both sides then brush or spreader it out thin and cover all your squeaky clean 36 or 40 grit grinder marks on the flanges... Then you lay another thin bead down both sides, mostly centered but with one toward the outside of the seam and the other toward the inside. Then clamp overnight, and not a cold night. Glass beads are in the adhesive to prevent overclamping but clamp just snug enough to draw the flanges together firmly. If you have a pesky bond spot than needs a screw, thats OK, screw it.

I have used old drill bits in the rail under a variety of clamps. You could put some dowel rod of fuel line or something in the rail to help it clamp evenly all down both rails.

Just bonus hobbyist oriented bonding notes.
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  #30674 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2019, 08:28 AM
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Yes you can,i used panel adhesive to replace my top,but I still tacked it at the front and rear and clamped the sides overnight..

might have to zoom in picture ,,I think this is the best picture I have,
Good to know. Do you have any updates on your car?


Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
This would also mean not needing to tear up the drip rail. And hey if you are bonding the sides... just hit the first two or three plug welds at each corner of the glass beds and bond the rest to use up the syringe. Might as well, its better corrosion protection than burnt epoxy.

You apply a bead to both sides then brush or spreader it out thin and cover all your squeaky clean 36 or 40 grit grinder marks on the flanges... Then you lay another thin bead down both sides, mostly centered but with one toward the outside of the seam and the other toward the inside. Then clamp overnight, and not a cold night. Glass beads are in the adhesive to prevent overclamping but clamp just snug enough to draw the flanges together firmly. If you have a pesky bond spot than needs a screw, thats OK, screw it.

I have used old drill bits in the rail under a variety of clamps. You could put some dowel rod of fuel line or something in the rail to help it clamp evenly all down both rails.

Just bonus hobbyist oriented bonding notes.
Thanks, Matt. Great info. Just so you know, I am kind of at war with myself here... My original intention with this car was to preserve as much of the original sheet metal as possible. I've already bought replacement doors, and now I'm looking at replacing the roof. May as well replace the driver side quarter while I'm at it. I have one collecting dust in the garage. That will get rid of my butchery of the sail panel, and keep my lower patches confined to non-visible areas. I think that will be best in the long run, anyway. I did stick a magnet to the pass side quarter in all of the problem areas, and it had a very strong pull. Inside the lip feels good, so I'm not anticipating big trouble there. The sail panel will need some repairs.
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  #30675 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2019, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by cozwurth View Post
Good to know. Do you have any updates on your car?



Thanks, Matt. Great info. Just so you know, I am kind of at war with myself here... My original intention with this car was to preserve as much of the original sheet metal as possible. I've already bought replacement doors, and now I'm looking at replacing the roof. May as well replace the driver side quarter while I'm at it. I have one collecting dust in the garage. That will get rid of my butchery of the sail panel, and keep my lower patches confined to non-visible areas. I think that will be best in the long run, anyway. I did stick a magnet to the pass side quarter in all of the problem areas, and it had a very strong pull. Inside the lip feels good, so I'm not anticipating big trouble there. The sail panel will need some repairs.
Strip the whole roof before making a decision then. Mostly the bad pitting is under the seams where the center vinyl connected to the side pieces. Show us the big picture if possible. If it looks like a grenade went off in there, OK. If there are deep pits only in spots... your comfort zone on patching is the only limit. Your window beds kinda do have like a hazy glow and with soft angel singing in the background. That means maybe save the roof but also means replacement would be a snap in those clean areas. You're still sittting pretty, comparatively. Its a nice car. If it was in my stall, a tree would have fallen on it, or tornado or something.
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