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  #6286 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2013, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trophyman View Post
Hey Brian,
A question, if you don't mind. I see you using butt joint clamps in this photo. Do you then just weld the gap closed? I've tried using them but find that the gap is just too wide to close without a lot of fuss. Is there a secret or just experience? BTW, as usual, beautiful work on the 36.

Thanks
Pat
I am not Brian but since you showed my picture, I believe you were addressing me.

I do not use the clamps often but did on this occasion since The panel had just a bit of "oil canning" in it and the magnets I usually use were not quite strong enough to hold it.

There was a thread here a couple of months ago that addressed leaving a gap in your panels to be welded. Many of the professionals do not like a gap but I do. The gap allows the panel to draw a little without ending up overlapped. It also pretty well guarantees penetration since you are filling the gap as you weld.

Not for one minute do I claim my way is best. It is just the way I have always done it unless I am fusion welding with a torch and the truth is I am to lazy to do that now days even if I was proficient at it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
John, that is cool seeing the car as it arrived with right hand drive !! I think I would've been very tempted to leave it.

You certainly brought the car back to a high level of restoration after purchase. I've bought "several" cars sight unseen, except for photos, and they are rarely what is portrayed. The Corvair is an exemption.

Today I went to HF and bought a cart for my Tig welder.

I was concerned about the fit once I got to the store and saw how short the top shelf was, but I forgot to measure the machine before I left so I bought it anyway. The shelf is short and the rear lip is too high to install the gas hose.... I may use the magnetic brake at work to make a new shelf the right length.
Thank you for the kind words. The car did turn out well and is really enjoyable to drive. I have truly enjoyed it.

It appears to me that if you would cut a 3/4 inch piece of plywood for your cart it would raise the welder high enough for your gas line to connect and still leave enough lip to keep it in place.

Please let us know how it works when you get it up and running. I would be particularly interested in how it handled very thin 22-24 gauge material.

John

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  #6287 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2013, 07:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trophyman View Post
Hey Brian,
A question, if you don't mind. I see you using butt joint clamps in this photo. Do you then just weld the gap closed? I've tried using them but find that the gap is just too wide to close without a lot of fuss. Is there a secret or just experience? BTW, as usual, beautiful work on the 36.

Thanks
Pat
That's not me, it's John. I have used them, they have their place. Depending on how you are butt welding. The way I am moving towards it is to big of a gap.

Brian
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  #6288 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2013, 07:03 PM
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It hit 40 today and the Beast has been sitting for a while so I took it for a nice little death ride (as I like to call them) Then I popped a few pics.
Hate this time of year because everything is dead and gray but it was nice to get behind the wheel again. I really do get cabin fever this time of year and especially when I cant drive the beast for a month or so due to weather.
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  #6289 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2013, 07:07 PM
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Just so there is no further confusion, I'm not John nor Brian. But I might be Batman.

BB
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  #6290 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2013, 07:34 PM
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I, too, am neither John nor Brian

I only ever used the clamps once.

It was a total waste because the duct tape could not lay flat over the clamps and when I took the duct tape back off to remove the clamps, I was right back where I started!
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  #6291 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2013, 08:17 PM
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I tuned this 32

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  #6292 (permalink)  
Old 12-28-2013, 04:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hpengineprep View Post
I tuned this 32

Now that would be one awesome car to cruise in.

Brian
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  #6293 (permalink)  
Old 12-28-2013, 07:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
That's not me, it's John. I have used them, they have their place. Depending on how you are butt welding. The way I am moving towards it is to big of a gap.

Brian
Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
I am not Brian but since you showed my picture, I believe you were addressing me.

I do not use the clamps often but did on this occasion since The panel had just a bit of "oil canning" in it and the magnets I usually use were not quite strong enough to hold it.

There was a thread here a couple of months ago that addressed leaving a gap in your panels to be welded. Many of the professionals do not like a gap but I do. The gap allows the panel to draw a little without ending up overlapped. It also pretty well guarantees penetration since you are filling the gap as you weld.

Not for one minute do I claim my way is best. It is just the way I have always done it unless I am fusion welding with a torch and the truth is I am to lazy to do that now days even if I was proficient at it.

John
OK, John and Brian. Thanks for the info. I've struggled with welding old, thin sheet metal and recently tried the butt clamps. It became more difficult due to the gap. When I did my fuel fill door, I really took my time and cut the opening a bit small and "snuck up" on the proper dimension.
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  #6294 (permalink)  
Old 12-28-2013, 07:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hpengineprep View Post
I tuned this 32

It doesn't get much better than this.

BB
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  #6295 (permalink)  
Old 12-28-2013, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trophyman View Post
OK, John and Brian. Thanks for the info. I've struggled with welding old, thin sheet metal and recently tried the butt clamps. It became more difficult due to the gap. When I did my fuel fill door, I really took my time and cut the opening a bit small and "snuck up" on the proper dimension.
The clamps do work well, that tiny gap is easily filled with a MIG or with gas welding. But if you want it closer, simply make the "patch" or what ever you are welding in. Clean up the edges good and put it where it goes, scribe the edge with a very pointy/sharp scribe so you get the line VERY CLOSE to the edge of your patch that you are welding in. Trim the metal away with off set tin snips until you are right on that line. Then fine tune the line with a file until your patch fits perfectly in the hole. Tack it in nicely then finish welding it.

Brian
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  #6296 (permalink)  
Old 12-28-2013, 04:11 PM
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How much is too much ,,or is too much just enough,
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  #6297 (permalink)  
Old 12-28-2013, 04:21 PM
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How much is too much ,,or is too much just enough,
Wow, Could it be that just enough is too much?
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  #6298 (permalink)  
Old 12-28-2013, 04:41 PM
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The top blower was bought for a I6 chevy it only produces around 3.5 lbs of boost it will bolt to a holley or edelbrock intake or turn over the spacer and it bolts to a 2bbl chevy 6 intake ,would look good on the side of a 292..Hmmm
I have another 50 chevy pu.
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  #6299 (permalink)  
Old 12-28-2013, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
The top blower was bought for a I6 chevy it only produces around 3.5 lbs of boost it will bolt to a holley or edelbrock intake or turn over the spacer and it bolts to a 2bbl chevy 6 intake ,would look good on the side of a 292..Hmmm
I have another 50 chevy pu.
That would indeed be cool and probably very "drivable". An old 292 already has a good deal of torque.

John
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  #6300 (permalink)  
Old 12-28-2013, 05:01 PM
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I have been thinking about it all day,i have the FRESH Original engine ,Babbitt rods so I would be afraid of that , but if I run across a 292 reasonable and a 5 speed I probably will go that route and leave the straight axle and just ad power sterring. still in the planning stages.
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