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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2005, 07:28 AM
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I think Jon is trying to say, that we should use the "Knowledge Base" more.................................

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I wonder if common sense will ever make a comeback?
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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2005, 08:29 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shoddy_f-body
I pay about $10 for 100lb bag of coal slag (black beauty) I dont think thats real expensive.
That's not a bad price. The distributor and I were discussing different media types and how they perform. He had a chart that had cutting rates vs amount of media vs time and black beauty isn't very good compared to the others. I find bb is very slow when used on old manifolds which is why he recommended Aluminum oxide.It seems the problem with the cost of media is where it is produced.. shipping can easily far outweigh the cost of the media.

I would have to go down to Norfolk VA or possibly Baltimore MD to get $10 a bag. Shipping it can easily cost $18 or more a bag.
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2005, 08:37 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poncho62
I think Jon is trying to say, that we should use the "Knowledge Base" more.................................
Woops.I think he is right. Seems we have already been there and discussed that.
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 12-14-2005, 05:54 PM
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Just wanted to throw this in the mix....

If I'm not mistaken Southdown Play Sand is silica free. It is made from araganite and many people use it in their saltwater aquariums because of this(that's the only reason I know this). It is regional, but many home depot's carry this for under $5/50# bag if I'm not mistaken. It is mainly found on the east cost from what I remember, but many times you can get them to transfer it from one store to another, free of charge. I'm not sure how this compares to the actual blasting media, but it may get around the whole silicate issues you guys in Cali have and be safer for those that care. If you google southdown play sand, I'm sure you will find plenty about it.
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 12-14-2005, 05:55 PM
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I have used both sand and glass bead media. Only thing I use now is the glass. Only reason is it is nice to see what you are trying to blast clean, and the glass bead creates very little dust in the cabinet. Silica sand on the other hand, creates the great dust bowl of the 30's. Not only can't you see what's in the cabinet, but the cleanup time afterword more than offsets the difference in price. I still have about half a fifty gallon drum of the sand, and use it in the outside sandblast gun when I have something too dirty or too big to fit in the blast cabinet. Although now I'm going to use the better respirator next time and stay away from the little dust mask I've used in the past.
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 12-14-2005, 06:22 PM
 
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That Nasty old sand!

I guess a lot of us have used the "silica sand" in our blasters and I have also heard the warnings. Great for small stuff but lets use some common sense when we blast.

I was told, by a late and great friend of mine that I should NEVER use sand to blast a body panel. I have restored old bow ties and have a 56 Bel-Air waiting. I was told that blasting the body prior to paint with sand would cause waves in the panel and distort it. The best medium to use is "nuts", well walnut shells. I guess glass would be cheaper and easier to find.

I am no expert however just wanted to pass on some info from a guy who was.
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 12-14-2005, 06:31 PM
 
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I have to blast the undersides of a 65 impala. Wonder if panel warpage is that big a deal here. I can see a problem if the fenders/doors/quarters warped.
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 12-14-2005, 08:05 PM
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i kind of skimmed throught hte responses, so if i missed it, i appologize. but i would reccomend using sodium bicarbonate... or commonly known as baking soda. it is environmentally friendly, but uses a little more effort to strip paint. won't take off rust though... but good for cleaning intakes and carbon. takes paint off with out damaging the panels.

i made the mistake of blasting without a hood(or atleast a resperator) in teh past and have learned from it. i used starblast on my nova parts and it did a wonderful job. but about half way through the blast i was having a hard time breathing. i looked up and saw this cloud of dust



it tooks months before i returned to somewhat normal. but now i atleast use a mask with a dust filter whenever i blast anything... i will probably wind up with something years from now, but it was a lesson learned.




but now i just use baking soda and only use the tougher stuff when i need it. i wish i could get media for those costs... starblast cost me $19 a 50lb bag, same goes for green diamond. walnut shells didn't work for me... but i got alot left... might have been too course for my gun though...

hope this helps, JD
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 12-14-2005, 10:21 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weimer
Go to your local TSC(tractor supply co) and buy some bags of Quickrete Commercial Grade Sand. It is about $3.80/50lb bag. I just picked up 6 bags today.
Later,
WEIMER

YOUV HERD OF TSC??? lol I work there and people who live like a mile down the road don't even call it tsc lol. everyone calls it tractor supply and when i say i work at TSC there all like "you work where".

enof of my A.D.D. lol
I use medium grade sand-sand blasting media on most rust and heavy paints. I find that fine sand and aluminum oxide works best for a smooth paint ready finish. And something learned threw frustration, always strain the media. I don't know how many times i got something stuck in the hose till i learned lol.
Also, If you paranoid about damaging or warping, or that stubborn rust spot that wont move i have somethings no ones mentioned, adjust the air pressure. higher pressure means more aggressive removal despite the media. Less pressure tends to take off less material but leaves a nicer finish.
As to the debate on silica. Use a proper respirator and the problem is gone.
~thats why they make safety gear~

Last edited by 68novafan; 12-14-2005 at 10:42 PM.
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 12-15-2005, 10:12 AM
 
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Blasting Media

Well it depends what you are blasting. If you are blasting your hood, fenders you should use a plastic media 16/20 type 3 melamine so the metal will not heat up and warp or wave. For most other things you can use aluminum oxide this media tends to leave a dusty layer on the part. There is also glass bead which dose not take to much if any metal off the part this media will leave a slight shine.
Just a little of my knoledge on blasting.
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 12-15-2005, 10:47 AM
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speaking of hoods, anyone know where i can ge one of those full face hard plastic ones, vented with the plastic face shield? i have been on a search for one for years, and resources here are limited, and can't seem to find one on the web.

thanks, JD
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 12-15-2005, 03:56 PM
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bullard sells the hood as does norton sandblast equipment. i just ordered a nova 2000 hood to replace my old one. it has a hard hat inside with a hard plastic face shield with tear offs. it runs 350.00 but it's worth every dime. i use type 5 acrylic for paint removal and starblast for rust. i take 0 chances with safety. the stuff your blasting off is as lethal as the silica.
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 12-15-2005, 05:20 PM
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Sandblasting

I use Sakrete fine sand, works very well. You can buy it right at home depot for aroud $4.oo a 50 # bag. Make sure you run it through a screen before putting into your sandblaster; the sand will contain some larger particles (very few) that will clog up the nozzle tip. I would not recommend using it on any body panels as it distorts the metal.
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 12-15-2005, 05:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shine
bullard sells the hood as does norton sandblast equipment. i just ordered a nova 2000 hood to replace my old one. it has a hard hat inside with a hard plastic face shield with tear offs. it runs 350.00 but it's worth every dime. i use type 5 acrylic for paint removal and starblast for rust. i take 0 chances with safety. the stuff your blasting off is as lethal as the silica.

thanks shine. by chance got a website? i agree the stuff blasted off is just as lethal... and i think when i first started out, my lungs had enough damage for a lifetime. so now i am always looking for ways to stay safe. as for the sand how is the acrylic type 5? better than sodium bicarbonate? i like star blast, but really hard to get out here... only 1 place that brings it in, and they only bring in limited ammounts. only problem i have had with star blast was it pulverizes after like 2 uses... probably using too much pressure though..

JD
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 12-15-2005, 05:58 PM
 
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sand in your crack...

don't be silly, just because sillicosis kills only 5.9% of all sandblasters doesnt mean you should go ahead and use it.

sand for blasting leaves a bad surface for painting -you have to sand the hell out of it before priming.
there are also silica particles embeded in the steel that cannot be removed easily. these allow rust to form in the tiny pockets underneath them - and we all know, once you got rust, it only gets worse.
sand is also not very clean in comparison to some of the other media out there -lots of impurities.

i prefer glass or garnet media. ever try walnut shells? wont damage the metal and tastes good.

Scott
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