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Old 07-14-2013, 07:32 PM
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Widening a 'glass fender

'glass '34 Ford, Outlaw.

You'll see in the pics that there is a problem with their right rear fender mold. I knew this would come up, my brother-in-law has the same car.

It's not entirely Outlaw's fault. One of Henry's suppliers was a bit off spec and there are thousands of original cars today with steel fenders that don't match. It's one of the things we looked for when judging (waaaay back when I was an AACA judge for Ford 1928-1935). We never dinged anyone on it.

Anyway, the fix is pretty simple... widen the fender at the rear 1" tapering to about 1/4 at the apex. As you can see in the side-by-side picture showing left and right... it's off. in the last shot the re-bar tells the tale, it's not off anymore.

Most people don't notice as the tires camouflage the difference. Some notice and look for it. I would see this every time I looked at it. It only took 4 hours not counting paint-prep, so why not?
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Old 07-14-2013, 07:58 PM
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Nice work! Like you said, most wouldn't notice it, but you know it's there and it would bug you. Good to get it resolved right away (and while you're already itching from the glass). I've seen a number of full-fendered '32s where the front fenders curve differently left to right.
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Old 07-14-2013, 09:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sedanbob View Post
Nice work! Like you said, most wouldn't notice it, but you know it's there and it would bug you. Good to get it resolved right away (and while you're already itching from the glass). I've seen a number of full-fendered '32s where the front fenders curve differently left to right.
Old Fords are revered today but they were the Volkswagon of their day. Whatever came into the factory went onto the car.
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Old 07-15-2013, 03:20 PM
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Well Ill be darned that explains why I had differences in measurements at the rear end when I was building my Gibbon 34. I never suspected the rear fenders were not identical.

Thanks Mitch
Vince
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Old 07-16-2013, 12:51 PM
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Bondo. Damned compound curves are kicking my butt. Just about got it.
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Old 07-16-2013, 01:53 PM
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Better to fix it now, than wait until paint is on. Just not worth it to live with a 1" difference, unless it was a daily driver. Nice work on widening it!
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Old 07-16-2013, 03:16 PM
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DO NOT use Bondo you will regret it. It expands and contracts differenty than the fiberglass fender and will crack over time. Use Fiberglass resin and glass cloth for a permanent modification.

Vince
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Old 07-16-2013, 03:27 PM
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He's doing it right - he ground down the existing glass, laid in more glass and resin, then is doing final finish with filler. Used properly, bondo is not a bad word.
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Old 07-16-2013, 08:05 PM
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Yes, a thin layer of bondo or duraglass will work fine.
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Old 07-16-2013, 08:51 PM
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Yes the key is a thin, very thin layer of Bondo, a 1/6" or less.

Vince
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Old 07-17-2013, 07:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 302 Z28 View Post
DO NOT use Bondo you will regret it. It expands and contracts differenty than the fiberglass fender and will crack over time. Use Fiberglass resin and glass cloth for a permanent modification.

Vince
Laid-up fiberglass is the main ingredient here. The edges are feathered down so the inside and outside layers touch all the way to the edges.... no air bubbles. 2 layers on top the close the wound, 3 underneath to give it strength extending 2", 2.5" + 3" past the joint. The majority of the "bondo" fill has been sanded away. If there's 1/16" remaining, that would be rare. If fiberglass didn't set so hard, I wouldn't use filler at all.

I've paddled my share of lead, boys..... I'm old school too.

I use short strand fiberglass reinforced body filler exclusively on 'glass. Generically called Bondo.

Last edited by Mitchman; 07-17-2013 at 07:29 AM. Reason: clarification
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:02 AM
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Yep good practice, you will not have any trouble. When I was building my 34 I did manage to find some polyester resin with the "Bondo" brand name on it. Traditionally the word "Bondo" has been lumped to mean all fillers.

Vince
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