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Old 07-16-2018, 05:17 PM
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Window Reseal on my El Camino A body?

Guys I have some leaky windows. I am hoping there are no rust issues in the channels. The Elco was a former Inland California car and had no signs of rust and I believe it was garaged as well. No rust in the smugglers box etc. I did notice after a hard rain I got caught the front floor carpets were wet. Pulled up the carpet. Had a spot about 4" in diameter that was rusted with a pencil lead size hole. Crap! I can 't say it is completely rust free now. Fixed it with the POR-15 floor system for such small spots. Did this before and was a permanent fix in my old 64 Beetle I had or it lasted 15 years to when I sold it. Great Shiot by the way.

A good bad thing? I was cleaning the windshield and while putting some pressure to clean it from the inside the dang window move outward! I'd say that may be the problem? Just old Butyl? I have replaced windows before in the same 64 Beetle so I have some experience. Those were harder with the Rubber seals having to string all of the them. Window shops are hesitant in doing this as they don't want the liability of breakage and hella expensive.

So the question is: Should I use Butyl or go with the new sealers? What is your experience with this on a 65 or other A body years?I believe my gen was all the same?

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Old 07-16-2018, 06:06 PM
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Had my windshield out twice and the back window too. Back window needs to come out again as the ureathane is pulling loose again.

1964 GTO

The windshield was a new part.The rear window was the OE. Not sure why they keep coming loose.The sealer stays on the car but pulls loose from the glass.

Old glass , new glass , doesnt seem to matter .I have used 2 different installers too. Dont know what to say.

I am lost here too.

Kinda tired of pulling the windows out to re install as the paint sometimes sticks to the bead of sealer and I have to repaint the channel.

Some of the guys here suggested to epoxy the window channel and not paint it , then install glass. But the adhesive sticks well on the paint as it pulls it of the car body in spots, when you pull it off.
So once again, I am lost also.

Its driving me nuts.

I am tempted to sandblast the last 1/2 inch (edge) of the window to get the ureathane to adhere to the glass. Maybe it would work.IDK
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Old 07-16-2018, 06:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arnoldsel View Post
Guys I have some leaky windows. I am hoping there are no rust issues in the channels. The Elco was a former Inland California car and had no signs of rust and I believe it was garaged as well. No rust in the smugglers box etc. I did notice after a hard rain I got caught the front floor carpets were wet. Pulled up the carpet. Had a spot about 4" in diameter that was rusted with a pencil lead size hole. Crap! I can 't say it is completely rust free now. Fixed it with the POR-15 floor system for such small spots. Did this before and was a permanent fix in my old 64 Beetle I had or it lasted 15 years to when I sold it. Great Shiot by the way.

A good bad thing? I was cleaning the windshield and while putting some pressure to clean it from the inside the dang window move outward! I'd say that may be the problem? Just old Butyl? I have replaced windows before in the same 64 Beetle so I have some experience. Those were harder with the Rubber seals having to string all of the them. Window shops are hesitant in doing this as they don't want the liability of breakage and hella expensive.

So the question is: Should I use Butyl or go with the new sealers? What is your experience with this on a 65 or other A body years?I believe my gen was all the same?
I have done too many of those windows to count, my shop for 13 years was across the street from a glass shop back in the eighties and nineties in California. FORGET the thought that there is no rust, there IS rust, the windows need to be pulled and rust repaired, period, end of story.

Brian
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Old 07-16-2018, 06:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LATECH View Post
Had my windshield out twice and the back window too. Back window needs to come out again as the ureathane is pulling loose again.

1964 GTO

The windshield was a new part.The rear window was the OE. Not sure why they keep coming loose.The sealer stays on the car but pulls loose from the glass.

Old glass , new glass , doesnt seem to matter .I have used 2 different installers too. Dont know what to say.

I am lost here too.

Kinda tired of pulling the windows out to re install as the paint sometimes sticks to the bead of sealer and I have to repaint the channel.

Some of the guys here suggested to epoxy the window channel and not paint it , then install glass. But the adhesive sticks well on the paint as it pulls it of the car body in spots, when you pull it off.
So once again, I am lost also.

Its driving me nuts.

I am tempted to sandblast the last 1/2 inch (edge) of the window to get the ureathane to adhere to the glass. Maybe it would work.IDK
I have never seen that happen! I have installed MANY glass in those A bodies, never have I seen that happen.

The glass must be dirty, that is bizarre.


Brian
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Old 07-16-2018, 06:24 PM
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By the way on your question, me personally, buytl tape.

Brian
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Old 07-16-2018, 06:45 PM
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LA, I say change brands of glass primer perhaps. Glass men are all voodoo about the primer like bodymen and epoxy primers. Ones I ask won't comment on a favorite but its not always the same brand as the adhesive.


I believe the el Camino has rust. Speaking from personal experience.

I believe scuffed epoxy primer or sanded bare steel is best for the glass bed. Ask your installer for their preference. I don't mind sealer and paint there but no filler or high build primer please.

When it doubt, use butyl as a urethane dam. Satisfy everyone that way. Thats how mine was done 18 years ago. Only spot its loose is where I didn't fix rust. One guess where... yep passenger side. I fabricated the bottom of the windshield bed area on the last Camino I worked on.
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Old 07-18-2018, 08:16 AM
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Butyl and Urathane?

Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
LA, I say change brands of glass primer perhaps. Glass men are all voodoo about the primer like bodymen and epoxy primers. Ones I ask won't comment on a favorite but its not always the same brand as the adhesive.


I believe the el Camino has rust. Speaking from personal experience.

I believe scuffed epoxy primer or sanded bare steel is best for the glass bed. Ask your installer for their preference. I don't mind sealer and paint there but no filler or high build primer please.

When it doubt, use butyl as a urethane dam. Satisfy everyone that way. Thats how mine was done 18 years ago. Only spot its loose is where I didn't fix rust. One guess where... yep passenger side. I fabricated the bottom of the windshield bed area on the last Camino I worked on.
So you are saying to use butyl in the Channel and put a bead of Urethane behind it or on the Window itself? Combine them? Most of the leakage is coming from the top. I could see it coming in on the inside. Hope no rust. Like I said the car is has very little or at all elsewhere. But if water has been standing in channel who knows?
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Old 07-18-2018, 08:23 AM
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Rust

Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
LA, I say change brands of glass primer perhaps. Glass men are all voodoo about the primer like bodymen and epoxy primers. Ones I ask won't comment on a favorite but its not always the same brand as the adhesive.


I believe the el Camino has rust. Speaking from personal experience.

I believe scuffed epoxy primer or sanded bare steel is best for the glass bed. Ask your installer for their preference. I don't mind sealer and paint there but no filler or high build primer please.

When it doubt, use butyl as a urethane dam. Satisfy everyone that way. Thats how mine was done 18 years ago. Only spot its loose is where I didn't fix rust. One guess where... yep passenger side. I fabricated the bottom of the windshield bed area on the last Camino I worked on.
If the Butyl is dried out hopefully it is just getting past it and a not rust channel. passenger side floor as mention I think is where it all collected.

What about a good Acetone cleaning to make sure no dust is present?
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Old 07-18-2018, 08:32 AM
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Rust

Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
I have done too many of those windows to count, my shop for 13 years was across the street from a glass shop back in the eighties and nineties in California. FORGET the thought that there is no rust, there IS rust, the windows need to be pulled and rust repaired, period, end of story.

Brian
You are probably right. Can't be bad as I see no migration or visible around the trim. But I expect some. So what is the best coarse with fixing that? POR-15 seems to have worked great for me in the past...

Taking them out. Do the Stringing? I have a cracked rear window so probably will replace. Taking it out I am sure it will break anyway.

Butyl I think is most likely the best since that is what the OEM used.

Thanks, Nice to know that someone of your experience commented.
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Old 07-18-2018, 09:53 AM
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There WILL be rust there, if not, post photos of the rust free channel and I will send you a gift card for a dinner out with your better half. I am not kidding.

Unless someone just sand blasted and painted that channel and installed the glass wrong, unless something like that has happened, there WILL be rust there.

Always expect the worse, when it's not the worse it's a gift and you smile. When it's worse than you expect, it's never as good a feeling.

Picture this, as MANY look like this under that window and moulding, holes inches long, rusted through. MANY look like this that you would never have imagined it looking so bad on a nice car. So picture this and when it's less you will sit back and have a beer and move on to repair what is there.

Brian

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Old 07-18-2018, 11:11 AM
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Don't know why that last photo isn't opening. You will notice that hardly any rust if any can be seen in these photos if the glass and mouldings were on.





I don't want to scare you, just keeping it real.

Brian
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Old 07-18-2018, 11:12 AM
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Just testing here, don't know why that first photo isn't opening.

Weird.

Brian
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Old 07-18-2018, 11:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arnoldsel View Post
So you are saying to use butyl in the Channel and put a bead of Urethane behind it or on the Window itself? Combine them? Most of the leakage is coming from the top. I could see it coming in on the inside. Hope no rust. Like I said the car is has very little or at all elsewhere. But if water has been standing in channel who knows?
Two ribbons side by side, touching each other. One butyl, one urethane. I used the word dam because like a dam and river, they touch. Use butyl as you normally would then use urethane as you normally would, then set the glass in place. Whichever answer whoever wants about what its installed with, the answer is yes this way. The only reason to do it that way is to avoid complaints from proponents of either method.
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Old 07-19-2018, 04:51 PM
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You are on!

Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
There WILL be rust there, if not, post photos of the rust free channel and I will send you a gift card for a dinner out with your better half. I am not kidding.

Unless someone just sand blasted and painted that channel and installed the glass wrong, unless something like that has happened, there WILL be rust there.

Always expect the worse, when it's not the worse it's a gift and you smile. When it's worse than you expect, it's never as good a feeling.

Picture this, as MANY look like this under that window and moulding, holes inches long, rusted through. MANY look like this that you would never have imagined it looking so bad on a nice car. So picture this and when it's less you will sit back and have a beer and move on to repair what is there.

Brian

Dag Nabbit you are going to make me do this sooner than I wanted to. You are on with the rust deal! LOL!
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Old 07-19-2018, 04:55 PM
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Hopefully it is not as bad as the Orange cars. Being it was a California car and everywhere else it is really virgin metal I am hoping for the best.
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