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Old 02-28-2015, 09:11 PM
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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
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Window with rubber gasket removal and installation tools.

I just wanted to post a thank you for Timothale for the excellent tool idea he told us about on a thread a while ago. I removed the rear window from my Rambler tonight using the tool and it worked just simply too good! Crap, it made it easy. I have pulled rubber gasket window out before using a number of different tools I have and get them out, but with a lot more work. I have also tore a few rubbers and what not doing it. These babies are the cat's meow for this stuff that's for sure. I grabbed a couple of old screw drivers I had, got another from a guy at work and bent them all heating them with the torch. I do have to say yes you need to heat them, they are hardened steel and don't like to bend, even the thin one. I thought I could just bend it and it snapped in half. Anyway, I bent them into shape then took a trip to the local Hardware store and got one each of the 1/4, 5/16, and 3/8 inch ball bearings and welded them onto the end. I used a rotary file to knock the weld down then cleaned them up with a Roloc "Surface conditioning disc". I am so glad I made all three as I found I used the smallest one and I didn't think that was going to be the one at all, so good thing I did it. I dipped the tip in dish soap and wham, removed the window by myself in seconds, I mean seconds. Thanks again Timothale!

I will be using it to install the glass too and I'll update this thread when I do. But I see this as the Holy Grail for rubber seated window work. Now I can't wait to get to the windshield.

Brian


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Old 03-01-2015, 10:18 PM
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Put the rear glass back in the Rambler today, I am telling you, there is no way I can imagine that I could have done this without these tools! The rubber on this car is very odd with three lips, these friggin tools worked like magic. I switched from the smallest to the middle one a few times but mostly used the middle one. The dipping in the dish soap made a huge difference too, once I did that I was home free!

Brian

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Old 03-02-2015, 06:01 AM
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I will often grab my snap-on cotter pin puller for doing glass.
They have a similar bend with a nice sweeping hook off to one side also.
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Old 03-02-2015, 06:08 AM
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This is the style I have, but I see there are many more shapes now.
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Old 03-02-2015, 06:35 AM
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glass tools

The ball end helps to prevent poking the sharp end into the rubber and tearing it.
For anyone that missed the factory tool to install the cord onto the groove in the rubber here it is again
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Old 03-02-2015, 06:37 AM
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side view

the second pict
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Old 03-02-2015, 07:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matts37chev View Post
I will often grab my snap-on cotter pin puller for doing glass.
They have a similar bend with a nice sweeping hook off to one side also.
And that is what I used in the past but the length of the end is much shorter, and without the ball on the end you have to be much more careful. These things are worth making if you do another believe me.

Brian
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Old 03-02-2015, 07:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timothale View Post
The ball end helps to prevent poking the sharp end into the rubber and tearing it.
For anyone that missed the factory tool to install the cord onto the groove in the rubber here it is again
That looks way harder to make though. Not impossible but much harder, pretty tiny little wedge in the front. I may do one but putting in that rubber strip was never a problem for me, we will see.

Brian
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Old 03-02-2015, 07:54 AM
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You mentioned three lips in the rubber. Odd...my 50 Studebaker glass rubber has three lips. There is chrome trim that goes in the lip on the outside to help push the glass against the window frame. And the glass has to be installed from the inside....Do you have trim for the outside?
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Old 03-02-2015, 08:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boatboy63 View Post
You mentioned three lips in the rubber. Odd...my 50 Studebaker glass rubber has three lips. There is chrome trim that goes in the lip on the outside to help push the glass against the window frame. And the glass has to be installed from the inside....Do you have trim for the outside?
That's not the kinda lip I was referring to. It has a slit in the rubber to fit over the pinch weld on the body and then a really big lip that goes out over the head liner. To install or remove this baby you have to get way in there under that big lip to the much smaller lip that goes over the pinch weld. The front window and ones that I have done in the past were much easier being it doesn't have this extra lip. There is no trim what so ever on this rubber, nor a "Locking strip".

Brian
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Old 05-11-2016, 01:34 PM
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for Timothale:
"hi. my question is about sealer on a 62 buick. the body service manual is very informative, well maybe. it has a picture on where it wants one to install Sealant both inside the groove where the glass goes and pretty much EVERYWHERE! i mean everywhere too. all around the perimeter of the rubber gasket, all around the glass edge both inside and out, another bead 8" in the corners on the bottom and 4" on the top corner. i had a guy come do my glass and before he came i told him i expected it to be sealed, as lots of posts on these rubber gasket installs said to make sure you use sealer. well he didn't, but he did bring a new tube of weatherstrip adhesive tho, which was to be put around the perimeter of the gasket once the glass was installed. the body service manual also calls for a 1/4" bead all around the entire outside edge of the gasket. i could see where this would be all that was really necessary! i mean i don't think any water can get past the gasket itself. however in some places the glass doesnt really go very deep into the gasket, (at the sharp corner on the bottom of each side, a 62 leSabre has the same windshield as a 62 impala), so the manual also says run along the edge (both inside and out) of the glass/rubber gasket edge. i can still do this also, but am wondering about the weatherstrip adhesive vs some other sealer. i thought the polyurethane black glue would be too tough to get out, so the guy at the paint store said use this 3M Auto Bedding and Glazing Compound (p/n 08509) that it says on the back is "for exterior sealing of windshield rubber". my question is "Is this the stuff best suited for the exterior, and is the weatherstrip (black) glue, ok for the interior, and is the interior even required? just wondering. and also, is it ok that i didn't use any sealer prior to install? it took 3 hours to get this glass in, pushing, prying, pushing some more and i can NOT imagine having to do this at all with glue on the rubber.

oh yeah, he suggested before i seal it to drive it around a while on bumpy roads to get it to settle in. sounded good and gives me time to wait for a reply.

Last edited by bullheimer; 05-11-2016 at 01:42 PM.
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Old 05-11-2016, 09:06 PM
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windshield sealer

I worked at Ford as and engineer for 15 years and for a while I had glass and windows. The specifications were written by someone with several years experience BUT each assembly plant did their own thing to cure leak problems. Manufacturing tolerances could stack one way or the other. and the amount and placement of sealer varied during the year. Sometimes a lot of sealer was used and it was a mess to get the cars clean for shipment.
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Old 05-12-2016, 08:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
That's not the kinda lip I was referring to. It has a slit in the rubber to fit over the pinch weld on the body and then a really big lip that goes out over the head liner. To install or remove this baby you have to get way in there under that big lip to the much smaller lip that goes over the pinch weld. The front window and ones that I have done in the past were much easier being it doesn't have this extra lip. There is no trim what so ever on this rubber, nor a "Locking strip".

Brian
Brian,

Since this has been reopened, where did you find the window gaskets? I need front and rear rubbers for my '63 ('61 - '63). Along with just about all the other seals...

Russ
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Old 05-12-2016, 09:36 AM
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man it was only a year ago, but i've killed alot of brain cells since then. i know it was not hard to find and was only $50 or less. the glass was from Sanderson, i'm sure they sell gaskets but i might have gotten it from ebay as well.

anyway Timothale, you think these rubber gaskets do have to be sealed around then, at a minimum all the way around the outside, as well as the outside inner edge by the glass? my 56 truck in the avatar is ALMOST leak proof and i am pretty certain the body shop didn't use sealer but i don't know. i have a very small puddle on my floor mat under the steering wheel when it's been outside in the rain all night, so it does leak. Other than that, after about 15 years, i don't see any rust or leaks anywhere else.
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Old 05-24-2016, 07:32 AM
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leaks

If you are getting leaks then I would seal it rubber to body. also on older vehicles check carefully along the drip rails the factory sealer can crack with age. sorry for the late response I don't check HR every day.
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