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horvath 04-23-2003 11:50 PM

Wiring Tail Lights & Turn Signals
Help me out here, will ya? I'm confused.
<img src="graemlins/crash.gif" border="0" alt="[crash]" />

I've got 4 lights at the back of my truck :
A.) 2 red lights that work as my brake lights and tail ights (always on when my headlights are on) ... and ...
B.) 2 amber lights (set in my tail gate) that operate as my turn signals (on when turn signal is applied only).

I'm looking at my EZ-Wire kit diagram, regarding the Park lights and Turn signals, and they are only showing the wiring procedure for TWO rear lights.

Their diagram indicates the use of 3 wires :
1.) Brown - "Park" ... goes to each of the two tail lights and also to the license plate light.

2.) Green - "Right Rear Turn" ... goes to the right tail light.

3.) Yellow - "Left Rear Turn" ... goes to the left tail light.

Obviously, they don't bother mentioning a wire that would be coming from my Brake Switch ... am I right?

Can someone give me a clarification on how I should be wiring my 4 lights properly?


Alan Horvath
<a href="" target="_blank"></a>
Acoustic Rock ... for real.

EBlack36 04-24-2003 03:39 AM

The EZ Wire kits are great, but they are designed in the old style prior to the amber turn signals. :cool:

[email protected] 04-24-2003 06:19 AM

Dump the bogus amber turn signal lights and wire your red tail lights w/ twin filament bulbs. The dim filament is your tail light and the bright filament is dual purpose for stop light/turn signal. The EZ kit handles that.

horvath 04-24-2003 02:35 PM

Thanks, willys36

My red tail lights already have the twin filament bulbs ... and I never liked the ambers as turn signals - they'd be a great spot to put in backup lights.



[email protected] 04-25-2003 09:28 PM

Have you seen these pickup tail lights? Super way to finish those unsightly bed edge rolls and to add third (and fourth!) tail lights.

[ April 25, 2003: Message edited by: [email protected] ]</p>

horvath 04-26-2003 01:43 AM

Oh, MAN!!! Thank you, thank you, thank you, willys36!

Q : Where do you run the wiring???

I'm ordering a pair first thing Monday morning! These are fabulous, bro! Not only are they totally cool, but they add safety to turns and braking.
<img src="graemlins/mwink.gif" border="0" alt="[mwink]" />


[ April 26, 2003: Message edited by: horvath ]</p>

horvath 04-26-2003 01:50 AM

PS - Here's a pic of my rear ambers ... you know of any (bright) backup lights I could install/fit in this spot?


[email protected] 04-26-2003 12:07 PM

I imagine you can run the wiring in a zip conduit up the stake picket and drill a hole w/ rubber gromet that would pass the wires into the round.

To keep the period look, how about a set of '53 (Don't remember what '54 look like but maybe they would work too) front running lights?

<a href="" target="_blank"></a>

[ April 26, 2003: Message edited by: [email protected] ]</p>

horvath 04-26-2003 10:10 PM

I was just pondering that same idea yesterday and wondering -"Will Park Lights light me up well enough?"

How do I determined what's bright enough to serve as backup lights?


[email protected] 04-27-2003 03:23 PM

Backup lights use a standard single filament auto bulb just like the running lights use. polish the reflector and it will be as bright as anything else you will find.

horvath 04-27-2003 10:34 PM

I see. Thanks willys36.

And if you can't polish up the reflector, here's a cool trick -&gt; I have no reflector inside my tail lights, so I put aluminum foil in -- wow! It really makes a difference!


EBlack36 04-28-2003 03:36 AM

I have 39 tear drops on my street rod and the housings were black when I got them, I repainted them white inside and they can now be seen very well. I know other guys that use silver. :)

[email protected] 04-28-2003 06:04 AM

I used even another way to get 'em real reflective. My '36 Willys has non-sealed beam headlights that are flush with the back sloping body panels. The focal point in the reflector is off-center toward the top so the light points straight ahead. Anyway, my car was missing the entire light assembly. I didn't want to buy the $550 reproduction units so I made my own. I broke the front out of a standard sealed beam headlight bulb and cast the interior in epoxy. Then I took that male mold and formed it to the a-symmetric shape of the Willys light. Finally I made a couple of fiberglass buckets from this mold. I epoxied a couple of foreign car halogen bulb adapters in my new fiberglass buckets. Now that I had a light, I had to make it shiny. I considered silver paint, Rub 'N Buff, chrome-plating, lining with tin foil, etc., etc. I finally decided to have them vacuum chromed like they 'chrome plate' parts in model kits. There are a couple of guys in the US who offer the service by mail. The buckets came out super shiny and have worked great for many years.

pasadenahotrod 04-28-2003 06:31 AM

As the 36 Chevy man saidand I have been posting when this topic comes up, it is best to repaint the inside of taillamps, parking lamps, backup lamps in a gloss white. Also, on the dual filament lights (stop/tail, park/turn) use a 2357 bulb rather than an 1157. The taillamp portionas are the same but the stop/turn portion is mnay times brighter!
The final step to the cheapest and brightest lights possible is to thoroughly clean the lenses on the inside. Use a good cleaner, ammonia and water works well, or vinegar and water, an old toothbrush and lots of patience. Scrub and rinse just one area, then hold the lens up to the sun or a bright light and see what I mean!
Then reassemble the light and be sure to put on some shades before you fire them up, don't want to fry your corneas!

horvath 04-28-2003 11:04 AM

Thanks for the heads-up on the 2357's, pasadenahotrod ... I was never sure about that one.

Gloss white paint, eh? Cool info - thanks - I'll do it!

I'm just taking a break now from my EZ-Wire kit ... half way home with it and having a blast!

Hey, willys36 - I ordered those Bed Roll Hot Lite'z today!

Thanks, everyone.


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