31 spline....you sure that is right??
Nobody I know of makes 31 spline for the 8.5/8.6" 10-bolt....the upgrade size is 30 spline from the stock 28 spline. Next bigger GM spline is 33 in the aftermarket.
Anyways...
What is the thickness of the c-clip button on the end of the axle?
i ask because axles meant for the 12-bolt (which is 30 spline stock) have a thicker button than 10-bolt axles....I've put 12-bolt axles in a 10-bolt but had to machine the end of the button in the lathe to make them fit.
From memory, the thickness difference is 1/16"....10 bolt is 1/4" thick button, 12-bolt is 5/16" thick button.
A member here, Big Gear Head, was the one who told me to take note of that fact when using 12-bolt axles as a size upgrade in a 10-bolt.
i would not thin the c-clip....it is the only thing holding the axle in and it is already pretty thin.
hi eric- apologies it was a 30 spline, as mentioned i estimate both sides need about 30 thou off- if i sanded them down not sure it would make that much of a difference?
Or I could turn the shaft down on the lathe? just the section where the axles are in the center-
Stock 30 spline 12-bolt and the upgrade 30 spline for the 10-bolt are the exact same axle....except for the thickness of the button on the end of the shaft.
i fixed mine on the lathe, just a quick cut off the end of the button.
Dutchman 12-bolt axles into '72 Nova 8.5" 10-bolt. I got them off another racer who was upgrading his 12-bolt to 33 spline.
You could grind them if that was the only tool you had.
my southbend 9" wont hold that unfortunately- might have to rig a jig on bench stone and use some blueing dye i guess-
hmmm - maybe the mini mill I have will manage a face off the ends if i go slow.. thats a nice idea i might try... either that or modified c-clips. Article here ended up 15 thou off each axles, sounds about right
I use a abrasive chop saw.
Get the axle against the fence and perpendicular to the blade----pull the trigger and push the axle against the side of the wheel and rotate slowly---it goes fast so be careful.
Don't this probably 100 times---some axles are not quite right and some aftermarket diffs are not either.
Without knowing any better I've set end play to around .005 and as said, it will loosen as posi clutches wear (The Explorer 8.8 posi in our Jeep, installed used, had so much end play from wear that when I looked into it the c-clips showed marks from nearly falling out...yikes). Seems to me that if you're using rear disc brakes it would be good to have .020 or so to knock the calipers back a little and free up some running brake friction without making it so you have to hit the pedal twice, but less play isn't going to kill anything. However you grind off the ends of the axles it should be square as possible, in lieu of that maybe rounded just enough to make sure the contact point w/ the pin is in the center. Sanding down c-clips would be difficult to do a good job of, better to use a machinist's surface grinder, but also as said, they are already pretty thin as well as probably having some type surface hardening and I wouldn't touch them.
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