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    1. · Registered
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      Though you may not have an overheating problem with these intakes,the "temperature sensitive" I refer to has to do with the actual temperature of the cylinders themselves by restricting the coolant passages,if all cylinders are equal in temperature they would also be equal in the amount power produced by that cylinder.As long as we are on the subject of heads someone on a budget may want to check this out:Six Budget Ford Heads That Work - Car Craft Magazine Note: that some heads have larger 2.02 valves,and most rebuilder style pistons won't clear those without some machining so keeping with a 1.90 or 1.94 valve would be a better option as far as cost.As long as we are talking cooling and aluminum parts if you want those to last please install this: JEGS Performance Products 51994, JEGS Anti-Corrosion Plug | JEGS Performance Products No doubt you have seen used intakes with corroded water passages,this is cheap preventive maintenance from electrolysis. ;)
       
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      Being a Ford guy I would recommend the intake I have over the choices you listed https://www.jegs.com/i/Professional-Products/428/54025/10002/-1 This intake has very strong low and mid-range it's designed after the older version of the Weiand Stealth which has both front and rear water passages for more equal cylinder cooling to save tooling costs the newer Weiands and the Edelbrocks eliminated the rear water passages which is OK for Chevys but not an SBF. I've had mine over 5 years and it still wipes off an shines like new. For a cam with more torque better for your Edsel's weight and RPM range https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-k3600/overview/make/ford By the way these will clear in your Edsel https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hed-88400 Since your new intake and heads will be aluminum get this too: https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/519...riteo&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=retargeting
       
    2. · Registered
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      Being a Ford guy I would recommend the intake I have over the choices you listed https://www.jegs.com/i/Professional-Products/428/54025/10002/-1 This intake has very strong low and mid-range it's designed after the older version of the Weiand Stealth which has both front and rear water passages for more equal cylinder cooling to save tooling costs the newer Weiands and the Edelbrocks eliminated the rear water passages which is OK for Chevys but not an SBF. I've had mine over 5 years and it still wipes off an shines like new. For a cam with more torque better for your Edsel's weight and RPM range https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-k3600/overview/make/ford By the way these will clear in your Edsel https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hed-88400 Since your new intake and heads will be aluminum get this too: https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/519...riteo&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=retargeting
      I agree with this cam choice for the application. Everyone uses too much cam in a daily driver, thinking that it will be a world beater. Nothing could be farther from the truth. The cam is not a stand-alone part, it requires support from all other parts of the drivetrain. The cam that Jeff is suggesting begins making power at 1200, so by the time the crank is turning about 1700, the motor will be "up on the cam" and ready to make power with the overdrive transmission. Using a wilder cam will leave the motor blubbering at cruise rpm's because the motor will not be up on the cam yet at OD cruise rpm's.

      I do agree with some of the others however, thinking that the car needs more cubic inches. Matter of fact, if it were mine, I'd be thinkin' 429/460, built at 9.0:1 to 9.5:1 with a mild cam. With the bigger motor, I'd return to the 2.90 gears and a C6, using a 10", 2500 stall converter.
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