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    1. · Registered
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      looking for the best additive to stop oil leak in rear main seal in 302 ford engine. hope some one can give me some good addvice on this problem. thanks gene

      there is no real additive to swell a rope seal.. or even a neoprene seal..

      one thing.. with rope seals... some blocks may have a spike in the center of the seal housing on the block/upper side that may prevent you from sliding a the old seal out.. most of the time.. working with brass punches.. (long 1/4 brass rods.. or even brass bolts or toilet tank float ball rod rods.. yes those are sometimes brass.. use a magnet please to verify.

      you can pack the ends of the top section of rope seal in.. and install short sections of rope seal to fill the gaps.. pushing in from the ends fattens up the middle.

      you will have to use a tube or a big socket to pack the rope seal into the cap... there are videos on this..

      most of the time in the past when i had to do mustang rear main seals in the car the transmission had to come out.. so i could get the pan out.. i have set 2x4 x 10" lengths on top of the motor mounts.. after i lifted the motor.. and engine support bar works best to hang the motor while getting the pan off.. less chance of smashed fingers... 1000 Lb. Capacity Engine Support Bar


      you do have to drop the engine oil pump to get the pan off.. its two bolts. and the driveshaft. the CLIP GOES UP.. you must crank the engine with the oil filter off and the ignition coil disconnected to prime the pump... oil will shoot out the filter mount .. then you can put the filter back on it and reconnect the coil to start the motor.. its crazy easy to not get the pump drive rod in the holes.

      if that is an original motor.. you will want to check for nylon chain sprocket bits in the pan.. and oil pump pickup screen... you will want to look up the bottom and check the timing chain slack..
       
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      292 Posts
      Personally, I would never use a piece of wood on a jack under anything to lift the engine. I'd get out my across the fenders "engine support bar" and hook it to the engine and lift from the top.


      The clearance point that's at issue when lifting is the back of the engine at the firewall. You can tear up an oil pressure switch/sender if you aren't careful, or even crack a dizzy cap or tear up the dizzy on some of them.

      Also, the C6 is a completely different engine and a completely different beast than your 1984 Monte Carlo. The oil pan on the LS style engines is a cast aluminum piece. Yours is pressed out of thinner metal (heavy gauge "sheet metal") and will likely dent.

      Most Gen I small blocks in most RWD cars and trucks, it's impossible to replace the pan itself or the oil pump with the engine in the car. "The book says" you can't change the oil pan gasket either. On some of those, I've used some strings and fished the new gasket into place, dragging it under the crank and main bearings and oil pump pickup, and I was able to get the gasket where it belonged to just replace the gasket with the pan hanging down some (just barely enough) to get the job done. On other engines/pan combinations, it's impossible to get adequate clearance at the back, at the oil pump pickup to get the new gasket into place. It's not the best idea, but you can also cut the new gasket and glue/sealant it back together.

      Yes, replace the engine mounts while you're in there. You have to disconnect them to get the engine up high enough anyway.
       
    2. · Registered
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      434 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #5 ·
      Personally, I would never use a piece of wood on a jack under anything to lift the engine. I'd get out my across the fenders "engine support bar" and hook it to the engine and lift from the top.

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      I can't afford that, and I don't think the wheel wells or finger spots on my Monte Carlo are steel for that to work.

      Instead of using a Jack and a piece of wood under the harmonic balancer, I read something else about using wood to raise it up by the oil pan and once it's raised, place a 2x6 piece of wood in between the motor and the motor mounts and let the engine down on top of the wood. This way, the engine is lifted without causing any damage to the harmonic balancer or crankshaft and it beats coming out of pocket of $100 I don't have.

      Does anybody know the length between the two upper control arms so that way I can buy a 2x6 piece of wood the length needed ?

       
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      19 Posts

      Personally, I would never use a piece of wood on a jack under anything to lift the engine. I'd get out my across the fenders "engine support bar" and hook it to the engine and lift from the top.


      The clearance point that's at issue when lifting is the back of the engine at the firewall. You can tear up an oil pressure switch/sender if you aren't careful, or even crack a dizzy cap or tear up the dizzy on some of them.

      Also, the C6 is a completely different engine and a completely different beast than your 1984 Monte Carlo. The oil pan on the LS style engines is a cast aluminum piece. Yours is pressed out of thinner metal (heavy gauge "sheet metal") and will likely dent.

      Most Gen I small blocks in most RWD cars and trucks, it's impossible to replace the pan itself or the oil pump with the engine in the car. "The book says" you can't change the oil pan gasket either. On some of those, I've used some strings and fished the new gasket into place, dragging it under the crank and main bearings and oil pump pickup, and I was able to get the gasket where it belonged to just replace the gasket with the pan hanging down some (just barely enough) to get the job done. On other engines/pan combinations, it's impossible to get adequate clearance at the back, at the oil pump pickup to get the new gasket into place. It's not the best idea, but you can also cut the new gasket and glue/sealant it back together.

      Yes, replace the engine mounts while you're in there. You have to disconnect them to get the engine up high enough anyway.
      Replaced many A and G body pans with engine in car . Jack the engine remove fan and dust or Carl if necessary sometime coolant hoses blocks between engine mounts.
       
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